Clifford Automotive Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 Trying to do a brake job on my dads Tahoe. New pads, new rotors. Swap everything out, proceed as normal through the process. Get to putting caliper back on carrier, doesn't fit. Checked pads. They're correct. Checked rotors. They're correct. Took measurements, everything is in spec. Do we have to get back into turning brand new rotors? Caliper guage said the rotors where dead on to each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benner Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 Make sure u picked up the correct pads and rotors. If I remember correctly there are 2 different setups depending on if u have a towing package or not. Had that problem with my dads 01 1500 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Automotive Posted January 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 Yep, triple checked everything. Been to two different parts stores taking caliper gauge measurements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nurkvinny Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 I'll ask the obvious one... you pressed the pistons back, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nurkvinny Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Maybe something helpful here? - http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13721 "The pads are NOT THE SAME. The top one with the wider spaced rivets goes on the backside of the caliper The lower one with the narrow spaced rivets goes on the wheel side of the caliper." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocky31186 Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 On those chevys there are nipples on the backside of the pad. If they are not in the right spot the caliper wont go on.. If its due to the pads being to thick, Ide say the caliper pistons are not pushed back far enough.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Automotive Posted January 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Thanks Vince I just read that and will take a peek at the pads tomorrow. I swapped pads into all sorts of combinations and had no luck. The pistons are all the way in. The total with of the rotors and pads was 2 11/16, the total with of the caliper opening is 2 11/16. You cant even begin to make contact with the piston because the opening was too small. So that raises my question again, do we have to start turning brand new rotors again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 There are actually quite a few differences in brakes on GM's fullsize trucks and SUVs. Every truck I do at work parts has at least 2 listings for each axle, usually its a difference in both pads and rotors though. I've had some that only fit with the shims on the back of the pads removed, and others that are inboard/outboard specific. Problem with trying to help you over internet is that GM is very inconsistent when it comes to brakes and the like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Automotive Posted January 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 I typod the above the total with of the pads and rotors were 2 13/16 with the caliper opening being 2 11/16. Thats not physically possible to clear. I have all combination. I even stepped down a year to different rotors, but that will cause a safety concern in 500-1000 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Automotive Posted February 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Aftermarket pads were way to thick. Got OEM pads and solved the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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