BrendanB Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 A couple of weeks ago my '00 Trans Am was running fine daily, and all of a sudden one morning it wouldn't start. I've tried having the starter rebuilt, checked the battery, made sure there were no corrosions on the wires, and have done just about everything I can think of, and the car still won't give any sign it wants to crank over. Could the problem be the VATS system? Just stumbled upon that researching starting problems, and think it could be the cause. Any insight into the matter would be greatly appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patterson Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Have you checked for power at the solenoid wire? Possibly a bad ign. switch. Maybe bypass the clutch switch so that you can start it without pushing in the clutch pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendanB Posted May 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Have you checked for power at the solenoid wire? Possibly a bad ign. switch. Maybe bypass the clutch switch so that you can start it without pushing in the clutch pedal. Not yet, I'll try that in the AM and see if it's the problem; could it be the ignition fuse or starter fuse as well? Took them out and cleaned them, but they didn't really show any signs of not working or major corrosion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patterson Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 I would say they are fine if they are not blown. First thing is to verify that there is power from the Ignition switch to the starter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendanB Posted May 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 I would say they are fine if they are not blown. First thing is to verify that there is power from the Ignition switch to the starter. Should I just take a voltmeter and make sure it's reading a decent amount of volts?/if it turns out the ignition switch is fine, is it likely wiring or the VATS is bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patterson Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Should I just take a voltmeter and make sure it's reading a decent amount of volts?/if it turns out the ignition switch is fine, is it likely wiring or the VATS is bad? If the VATS is malfunctioning you shouldn't get any voltage at the solenoid. If you are, the motor should crank over. Or at least try to engage the flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patterson Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 But yes, have a helper turn the key to the "start" position, while checking voltage at the solenoid. You should get 12V or there abouts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendanB Posted May 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 But yes, have a helper turn the key to the "start" position, while checking voltage at the solenoid. You should get 12V or there abouts. Alright I'll do that right away and see, hopefully that's the case so I can get it started again, already lol. Since my starter is currently off the car, can I have the ignition switch checked at Autozone or Advance Auto Parts? If not, I'll reinstall it and try it installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Ohm the chip in the key, go to radio shack and buy the same resistance resistor, install resistor in the orange wire with the black connector to the dash harness side of the connector not the column side (its a orange wire coating with two small white wires in it also don't cut the wires), start car. you may or may not need to relearn theft mode. if that works then you need to replace the VATS sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patterson Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Alright I'll do that right away and see, hopefully that's the case so I can get it started again, already lol. Since my starter is currently off the car, can I have the ignition switch checked at Autozone or Advance Auto Parts? If not, I'll reinstall it and try it installed. The switch will work or it won't. I don't know of a specific test for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 IS the security light flashing? Could be VATS, could be something else in the starting circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendanB Posted May 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 IS the security light flashing? Could be VATS, could be something else in the starting circuit. I'm pretty positive it kept going on and off, so yes. I'll try it again when I get back from class and make sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbracing81 Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 When you turn the key to the on position do you have power to the fuse box? Can you push start the car at all? I would probably check power to the clutch pedal switch before anything else. With out pushing the clutch pedal down you won't have power to the starter solenoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 I'm pretty positive it kept going on and off, so yes. I'll try it again when I get back from class and make sure. Sounds like VATS then. You can do what AJ said and bypass it with a resistor, that would be a cheap fix. Fixing it to function normally would be a little more pricey because you have to find out what code it is and buy a new cylinder with new keys at the dealer. Not sure if any lock smiths get into anything like that. If you need some help with it PM me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendanB Posted May 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Sounds like VATS then. You can do what AJ said and bypass it with a resistor, that would be a cheap fix. Fixing it to function normally would be a little more pricey because you have to find out what code it is and buy a new cylinder with new keys at the dealer. Not sure if any lock smiths get into anything like that. If you need some help with it PM me. I'll make sure it's the VATS, then try bypassing it later today. Will the resistor work at least for the time being? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Yes. It's a long term fix but it also makes it super easy to steal your car so I don't recommend doing it long term. Also you don't have to buy new keys just the vats sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendanB Posted May 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Ok, will do it short term. Can you still buy the keys from GM or should I just have them remade at a hardware store or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Yes. It's a long term fix but it also makes it super easy to steal your car so I don't recommend doing it long term. Also you don't have to buy new keys just the vats sensor. The lock cylinder comes assembled, so you have to have the correct coded key cut for the cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 I keep forgetting it comes with that stupid plastic trace key like the old body lumina and montys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendanB Posted May 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Had the entire starter unit checked out by the shop that rebuilt it, thing works perfectly, so I'm gonna try the bypassing of the VATS tonight, and hopefully it'll start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Bastard Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 try bump starting the car, if it starts its probably not the vats, but if it doesnt start, then it probably is the vats. with the security light flashing, it is a good possibility it could be the vats, i know on my wifes pontiac that you have to leave the key in the on position for about ten minutes (until the security light stops flashing) then the car will start. i dont know if the f-bodies were the same way or not (wifes car is a 2001). basically the computer has to re-learn the key in the pontiac every now and then. i dont know why it does it and im sure its not supposed to, but now and then you have to in her car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 try bump starting the car, if it starts its probably not the vats, but if it doesnt start, then it probably is the vats. with the security light flashing, it is a good possibility it could be the vats, i know on my wifes pontiac that you have to leave the key in the on position for about ten minutes (until the security light stops flashing) then the car will start. i dont know if the f-bodies were the same way or not (wifes car is a 2001). basically the computer has to re-learn the key in the pontiac every now and then. i dont know why it does it and im sure its not supposed to, but now and then you have to in her car. Thats a passlock system, totally different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendanB Posted May 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Thats a passlock system, totally different. How difficult is the VATS system to do? And so long as the security light is flashing, it's pretty much certain thAt it's the VATS, and not the ignition switch, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 How difficult is the VATS system to do? And so long as the security light is flashing, it's pretty much certain thAt it's the VATS, and not the ignition switch, correct? The ignition lock cylinder is the main component of the VATS system. It's not horrible to do, but a couple tools are needed to get the column apart. The security light is a pretty good sign, we have some tools at the dealer to bypass the VATS system to know for sure. The tools basically put the correct resistance of the key in the circuit, so when you figure out what the resistance is you can simply put that resistance in the cicuit to bypass the VATS. Take an ohm meter and measure across the chip in the key, get a resistor from radio shack of that value, at the base of the column there is a small two wire harness that comes from the VATS sensor, connect the two wire together with the resistor leading away from the column. Now if the car starts VATS is to blame, if not you have another issue. Clear as mud? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrendanB Posted May 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 The ignition lock cylinder is the main component of the VATS system. It's not horrible to do, but a couple tools are needed to get the column apart. The security light is a pretty good sign, we have some tools at the dealer to bypass the VATS system to know for sure. The tools basically put the correct resistance of the key in the circuit, so when you figure out what the resistance is you can simply put that resistance in the cicuit to bypass the VATS. Take an ohm meter and measure across the chip in the key, get a resistor from radio shack of that value, at the base of the column there is a small two wire harness that comes from the VATS sensor, connect the two wire together with the resistor leading away from the column. Now if the car starts VATS is to blame, if not you have another issue. Clear as mud? Sounds easy enough, I'll get started on it after class tomorrow and see if it runs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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