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teach me price negotiating...


The_buster

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Its her "slow" semester and she'll be having the baby in feb. So she will also be taking summer off. And I don't think the altima is going to last until the next tax return. Needs some work, cost more to fix it than we'll get from trade in. And we definitely need more carseat room.
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Most of that is true, but dealing with the guy with the most cars out shouldn't be a goal. I'm the newest person in my department and I will say i will do what ever it takes to get the deal done over others that will just let it die. I will never chase a guy out to his car to do the deal like others here have posted because I'm not holding money when it comes to the person walking. If anyone wants something from a Byers lot I'll try my best to help out weather it is a cheap car or a high end one.

 

What Byers lot do you work on?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'd say all those listed are junk. If I had to buy one of those it would be the Focus but only if it were 100% perfect, needed nothing and had low miles...

 

Hate to say it but using a student loan is a fail waiting to happen. Either buy a $500 beater and save up to pay cash or don't waste your time on a junk car that probably won't last you two years...

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got a short list of cars shes interested in: subaru forester/outback, mazda 5 or 3 hatch, toyota matrix, pontiac vibe, and the mitsubishi outlander.

 

any one have any yay or nays about these?

 

If you need a reliable vehicle, (and it seems the 4wd and storage space are a need) get a honda CR-V. It will be approxiimately 18,234.783 times more reliable than the mitsu, pontiax and mazda combined.

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Going to once again reinforce what a terrible idea it is to take part of a student loan to buy a car. Why not buy a $4k car and hang on to that student loan money? Chances are pretty high that blowing all this money doesn't leave a lot of cushion in case your brand new $7k car (hint: most $7k cars aren't in great shape) needs some work within months.

 

If you're dead set on making a horrible financial decision, you need to identify what $7k cars are going to fit your needs. It sounds like whoever is buying the car is all over the map in terms of what the next car needs to do. Based on the tone if your posts, it seems like someone is very excited to make a big purchase and is looking at a lot of potentially unreliable (PT Loser, Mitsu Outlander, etc) cars.

 

Car buying is very emotional, and, again, if you are going to put your financial security in jeopardy by borrowing against student loans, you need to make a much more boring and financially reasoned choice in your car searches. Don't decide what the max amount you can spend is and see how much car you can get for that amount. Find out what kind of car suits your needs best, see what reasonable expectations you can have when balancing your desire for nice features, low wear (miles, etc), and price.

 

Cannot reinforce how much you need to NOT spend your absolute max if part of your "budget" is earmarked for education.

 

Source: I sell cars for a living. LISTEN TO ME AND DON'T FUCK AROUND WITH YOUR FINANCES BECAUSE YOU WANT A SHINY NEW CAR.

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Going to once again reinforce what a terrible idea it is to take part of a student loan to buy a car. Why not buy a $4k car and hang on to that student loan money? Chances are pretty high that blowing all this money doesn't leave a lot of cushion in case your brand new $7k car (hint: most $7k cars aren't in great shape) needs some work within months.

 

If you're dead set on making a horrible financial decision, you need to identify what $7k cars are going to fit your needs. It sounds like whoever is buying the car is all over the map in terms of what the next car needs to do. Based on the tone if your posts, it seems like someone is very excited to make a big purchase and is looking at a lot of potentially unreliable (PT Loser, Mitsu Outlander, etc) cars.

 

Car buying is very emotional, and, again, if you are going to put your financial security in jeopardy by borrowing against student loans, you need to make a much more boring and financially reasoned choice in your car searches. Don't decide what the max amount you can spend is and see how much car you can get for that amount. Find out what kind of car suits your needs best, see what reasonable expectations you can have when balancing your desire for nice features, low wear (miles, etc), and price.

 

Cannot reinforce how much you need to NOT spend your absolute max if part of your "budget" is earmarked for education.

 

Source: I sell cars for a living. LISTEN TO ME AND DON'T FUCK AROUND WITH YOUR FINANCES BECAUSE YOU WANT A SHINY NEW CAR.

 

holy voice of reason

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Not looking for shiny new. We just need a bigger car for both more storage area and mostly seatroom for the bigger side of carseats. Will carlots let you "test fit" carseats? Would prefer something with 4wd/awd its going to be the wifes car and she has lucked out and not had to drive in snow much if at all, and yes she knows it just helps you go a little better and not stop faster. The random cars I post here are ones she sees on the road and looks on CL and run in our price range. The 7k is what we can spend if there is a really good deal on something with low miles. She's looking around the 5k range.
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In my experience I just keep saying "I'm interested" but walk away repeatedly. I walked out on my new car from several dealers until one finally slipped up and gave me the deal I wanted. It took about a month of repeated calls and saying "that's not going to work".
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Not looking for shiny new. We just need a bigger car for both more storage area and mostly seatroom for the bigger side of carseats. Will carlots let you "test fit" carseats? Would prefer something with 4wd/awd its going to be the wifes car and she has lucked out and not had to drive in snow much if at all, and yes she knows it just helps you go a little better and not stop faster. The random cars I post here are ones she sees on the road and looks on CL and run in our price range. The 7k is what we can spend if there is a really good deal on something with low miles. She's looking around the 5k range.

 

Like I said, identify the exact car that you want, and search for a deal on THAT car.

 

Any dealer will let you test fit car seats. If they don't they're idiots.

 

One important distinction that I feel the need to make. Everyone here is saying "walk". I disagree. What puts the screws to me most is not the person walking away from a deal, but rather a person's WILLINGNESS to walk away from the deal they don't want in order to get the deal they do want. What will get you the deal is your willingness to not walk away if the dealer has a willingness to sell to you at your desired price.

 

We have dozens of people look at the same car. Some are serious, some are dreamers, some are deal-hunters, but EVERYONE is a car buyer. You need to be a serious buyer, not a deal hunter. Deal hunters often leave with worse deals than many others would, because they're mostly concerned with how many dollars come off the initial price, and they will often end up buying a more worn-out car because they saw 4 digits come off sticker instead of 3.

 

Best thing you can do is start tracking a lot of particular cars right now on dealer lots, and continue to build a list of cars you'd like to buy in your price range over the winter. When tax time comes and you get your rebate, if the cars you're observing now are still available, you can be sure of a couple things:

 

1) That dealer wants the car GONE. Make him a reasonable offer (a few hundred off asking price) and you'll get the car you want.

2) That is the absolute, very little negotiation needed, price that you can get on such a car. If the car that's been around is not the one you want, but a newer one is available at a higher price, use the older car to negotiate to the price you want. Not in the sense of "hey I can go buy this other one for $XXX, you need to do this price" but in the sense of "listen, I know this other one at $XXX price is probably around what you paid for yours, since it's been in inventory forever, so if you'll do $YYY price on yours, that leaves you a bit of profit, gets me the car I want at a price I want, and gets you a sale today".

 

Bottom line, you will get a good deal if you show willingness to buy.

 

EDIT: Some dealers this is true, some it's not. If a dealer won't do your price, it might be because they're not willing to deal, or it might be that they know they have a phenomenal car and it deserves a higher price. Start planting seeds now and see what sprouts at tax time.

 

Example: I sold a Land Rover to a guy for less than I told him I could sell it to him for. Why? Because in June we had a TON of traffic on it at $XXX price, but no one could get financed or people were making idiot offers. My customer had made a reasonable, well-researched firm offer of $YYY. 2 months and no success selling the car later, we hadn't even put $YYY on the sticker to open it up to offers and my manager called the guy saying that he had right of first refusal since he'd made an offer that we were about to put on the sticker. The guy got the car he wanted at the price he wanted by being patient.

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