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F Body Folks Chime in.....


TurboNova

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Agree on the 6 spd but expect to pay more and look harder. Good ones are not easy to find.

 

If you decide to take it to the track be prepared to get raped by auto Fbodies with aftermarket converters :-)

 

A friend of mine had an auto with similar mods as mine.... He put down 30 to 40 less RWHP and trapped 6-7 mph less but consistently beat me by .3 to .4 ET.

 

Back on topic, I have never had a more reliable car. Like scott said, if the car is not right you should hear or see it on these!

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My 99 has 222,000+ miles on it and I have beat on it everyday I have owned it. I put 2 Centerforce DF clutches in it and hated both of them. The first let out with only 6K miles and the second I got 30,000 miles but could never shift it over 4500 RPM +/-. I put a stock replacement from autozone and have been ripping it for about 100,000 miles. I'm sure you are aware of this, but if get an M6 and you beat on it even a modest amount you will destroy the posi unit.
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F-Bodies were rated lower BHP from GM on purpose. There was an article in 1998 from GM High Tech and they tested a 98 Trans Am base model vs. a C5 Base model and the Trans Am put more down on the dyno....GM would lose sales if the buyers of Corvettes knew there was a car for half the price making the same or more power. As far as info for the OP, it is pretty basic stuff to check for like any car if it is 100% bone stock. If something seems off, it most likely is.
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Just gonna list a few things I knew were wrong with mine when I sold it..

Leaky steering rack, fluid boils easily in F-body's and I'm sure contributed to my rack being junk. Headlight motors. A4 cars it's usually not as bad, but the rear end. It's hard to check but on mine when I bought it at 78,000 miles it had bad intake gaskets somehow..no telling how though...I know they are reusable. Typical redneck cutting corners to fix stuff, even if the owner seems pretty straight forward and the car is stock F-Bodys are such a bitch to work on that their is no telling if a mechanic cut corners to just get it out of his hair, I know I did. Other than that not much else, shocks may still be OEM, but no telling, I know mine were getting bad and they were OEM I believe and it had right at 100,000 when I sold it.

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Not sure what kind of price is on it, but my buddy is down to $6k on his stock '02 Z28 A4.

 

http://ls1tech.com/forums/vehicle-classifieds/1583468-2002-camaro-rare-color-z28-clean-stock-beautiful.html

 

the car is nice. But after my trip to look at this ta in Delaware I dont want to drive that far to look at something.

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At 109k I had to get a water pump, alternator, serpentine belt, and a pass side o2 sensor, great cars. I paid $2000 for my 97' 3.8 and didn't test out reverse...when I got home I found out it barely worked, had to get a used one put in but other than that she ran strong and screeched the wheels hitting 2nd gear!

 

I had horrible wheel hop from a dig, $100 lower control arms fixed that no problem....for the v6 engines; alum driveshaft also help these cars a lot too, if you add an exhaust be ready for rasp above 3k.

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I bought my 01z for 10000 out the door 1 owner. 37000 miles. Its my daily driver till bad weather. So far I've done little bolt ons and with each one its just a little funner. Mines a 6 speed. And personally I think it shifts like crap. This winter early spring once the turbo goes on the trans is comming out for dome major attention to how it shifts. But that's my only gripe we'll they do eat about .5qt oil between 6000 mile oil changes.
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At 109k I had to get a water pump, alternator, serpentine belt, and a pass side o2 sensor, great cars. I paid $2000 for my 97' 3.8 and didn't test out reverse...when I got home I found out it barely worked, had to get a used one put in but other than that she ran strong and screeched the wheels hitting 2nd gear!

 

I had horrible wheel hop from a dig, $100 lower control arms fixed that no problem....for the v6 engines; alum driveshaft also help these cars a lot too, if you add an exhaust be ready for rasp above 3k.

 

This.

 

Honestly, for a DD, you cant beat the 3.8 cars. Ive owned mine for almost 7 years and never really had a problem with it. The car pretty much immediately got a CAI, full exaust and posi with 3.73 gears. No it still wasnt very fast, but it wasnt bad and it got like 34 mpg on the highway (its a lightweight base model stripped down no options car). Hell even with the with how its currently set up and 4.10's out back, it still gets around 30 mpg.

 

Not to mention you can get them for next to nothing, and add turbo kit for within your budget.

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I know I know, we dont need another fbody here on the forum but I found a very clean (by pics) 4th gen trans am. Its a 100% bone stock A4 car. the car has just a touch over 100,000 miles and by talking to the owner, it has no issues.

 

 

Now I know a little about the LS platform but not alot about Fbody stuff. What should I be looking at for common stuff on Fbodies around the 100k mark. Ill bring my scanner and check for faults and do the typical look over. Just was not sure if there are some real important stuff to check that typically needs attention.

 

Its going to be a bone stock driver :D

 

Do you want a V8 or a V6 or does it matter? I'll keep my eye out to help you if you like.

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  • 3 weeks later...
I had a 02 A4 Z28. The only problem I ever had was the spider gears in the rear end going bad. And if you're not real familiar with the LS1 motor be ready to listen to some piston slap. Doesn't really hurt it, it'll just sound like a diesel for the first five minutes of running.
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I had a 02 A4 Z28. The only problem I ever had was the spider gears in the rear end going bad. And if you're not real familiar with the LS1 motor be ready to listen to some piston slap. Doesn't really hurt it, it'll just sound like a diesel for the first five minutes of running.

 

 

yup I said fuck fbodies and their over rated prices... And I know a couple things about the LS motors

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