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Battery Draining Overnight


Fubar231

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Have not had good luck with optima batteries, if they go completely dead many times you cannot revive them. Not worth the cost in my mind.

 

This.

I was talking to a few people at The Hangout about it last night. They aren't worth the extra money in my opinion. I'd rather go to interstate and get one that's got a huge Warrenty on it and will last me, especially if the car it's going into is a daily driver. Optima's have some strong points, but in my eyes I'd rather rock the Interstate. I know that's where I'm going for my Supra's battery. And I get a discount at my job on battery's if that tells you anything..

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+1 on probably needing a new battery.

 

I'm not sure if the Optimas behave the same way when they bite the dust, but the last battery I had to replace on my Accord (Duralast Gold which lasted 7-8 years of daily driving) started off like that, then got to the point of not holding a charge at all within a few days. That one tested bad right off the bat when I took it to AutoZone. However, within a week of buying my WRX, I started having the same problem, but when I took it to AutoZone it tested fine. Carried a jump pack around with me and had to jump it if it sat more than a few hours. Within a few days, it wouldn't hold a charge for more than a few minutes, then not at all. Took it back to AutoZone, tested bad that time. Popped in a new Duralast Gold and it's worked fine ever since. Still waiting on a check for reimbursement from Byers though.

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To grasp the percentage of charge, you need to understand how electricity works. The available amperage is directly related to state of charge. Earlier you said 11.9v sounded sufficient but technically it won't be. 6 battery cells at 2.1v are not 'charged' enough below 12.6v and the strength falls off very steeply thereafter.

 

To be direct, just replace it and stay away from optimas.

 

How long have you had all of your extra electrical modifications installed? Do you actually remote start your vehicle?

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  • 1 month later...

Just went to start my car after its been sitting for a few weeks and the battery is reading 7.5 volts or around that. (And the battery has been taken to 3 different stores (Napa, AutoZone and Advanced Auto Parts, and they ALL said my battery was good)

 

Can someone please teach me how to drop test or do some electricial tests and try to figure out where this short/drain is coming from.

 

How long have you had all of your extra electrical modifications installed? Do you actually remote start your vehicle?

 

For at least a year, and nothing electrical wise has been changed. The car has a remote start but i do not use it at all, dont even use the alarm with the remote start. I use the regular keyfob/chevy one thats OEM to the car.

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Get a clamp style ammeter from sears or a parts store and put it around your negative battery cable. Find out what your reading is after sitting long enough for all the modules to sleep.

 

That is not going to be very accurate, I have one, but to measure a draw you need some accurate down to at least 5-7 milliamps. An amp meter connected in series between the negative battery terminal and lead is the best way to accuratly measure draw.

 

Fubar-Since this might be a little over your head electrically, if you bring the car to my house and pay me I'll check it. It takes at least an hour just to get a good reading of draw, let alone hunting it down as that can take some time. I'm not doing it for free, and I doubt anyone would invest enough time to do it properly for free.

 

If I were you I'd buy a battery tender and disconnect the remote start shit on the car.

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That is not going to be very accurate, I have one, but to measure a draw you need some accurate down to at least 5-7 milliamps. An amp meter connected in series between the negative battery terminal and lead is the best way to accuratly measure draw.

 

Fubar-Since this might be a little over your head electrically, if you bring the car to my house and pay me I'll check it. It takes at least an hour just to get a good reading of draw, let alone hunting it down as that can take some time. I'm not doing it for free, and I doubt anyone would invest enough time to do it properly for free.

 

If I were you I'd buy a battery tender and disconnect the remote start shit on the car.

 

PMing you.

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No because people keep telling him its fine.. ...:rolleyes:

Im still betting money its the battery...

 

I dont have $100+ to go get a battery, and places wont warranty it out because "Its fine". Believe me ive complained and tried to get them to warranty it out and they will not because there machine says its fine. No matter how many times i take it to them the next day and say it died, or whatever i do, they just will not replace it. Its still within the warranty period too which is bullshit.

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I would call optima and see if they can warranty it for you, just explain the situation and that auto parts stores keep saying its okay, but it never tests correctly for you on a voltage meter. I would ask someone to borrow a known good battery first though to rule that possibility out though.
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Alright, so i went and pulled the battery off the charger and hit it with the voltmeter and this is what its doing. Im letting it sit now and im going to go check it in a bit and see if the voltage keeps dropping, and if it does im going to advanced and raising hell.

 

Its a video, watch what its doing.

 

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f302/SevereSarz/th_20130111_153909_zps79a467b9.jpg

 

This is with the battery out of the car, and nothing hooked up to it at all. Its just sitting on carpet on my garage floor.

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here is the problem, people at parts stores test optimas as regular batteries not agm or gell cell most of the time the guy at the counter is mad that he or she doesnt have an optima so therefor they tell you oh its fine if an optima has less than 12.5 volts its not usually fine i have seen it a hundered times

 

where did you buy the battery?

 

advance?

autozone?

napa?

oreiley?

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That is not going to be very accurate, I have one, but to measure a draw you need some accurate down to at least 5-7 milliamps. An amp meter connected in series between the negative battery terminal and lead is the best way to accuratly measure draw.

 

I agree 100%, but it would be an easier approach for someone without experience. I was just trying to save him from blowing up a meter.

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Did you buy it through Auto Zone or Advanced? If it was Auto Zone call their DM and explain the situation, most will get you taken care of. Just because the battery tests good doesn't mean it is good, the tester's aren't 100% accurate and most people working at AZ unfortunately don't know that an Optima needs to be tested differently like i've stated. i have seen many battery's test good one week, and the customer comes back with the exact sames symptoms a week later and it test's bad. The machines at AZ area simple pass or fail. No in between, which is why theoretically if it needed say a 5/10 score (not how it is done, just for illustration) to pass, even if it got 5.000000000001/10 it would still read as pass.

This is just my experience and how the testers have been explained to me.

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