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Oldsmobile starting issues


justinwebb

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I have my first car a 91 olds cutlass ciera V6 3.3L and it has sat for a while as I cant seem to figure out the issue. When I start the car it right away goes into a crazy high idle and then dies. I have checked the ECU thinking it had gone out but everything looks ok. Where should I start looking, I am assuming its a sensor somewhere and its so old it doesnt have any codes that its throwing. Any help?
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What do you mean "EVerything looks ok"

 

These cars are notorious for ECU's and MAF's

 

No burning on the board, no bad or leaking caps, nothing that would indicate a blown circuit board. I was driving it and stopped at the grocery store, came out and wouldnt stay running. Seemed more like a sensor but I could be wrong

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Visual check doesnt always mean its good.

 

yes I know this, but I didnt have any way of testing it, I just didnt want to start dumping money into places and it not be the issue. Would there be anything else I should look at or just buy a new ECU and try that?

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Well unless you start checking the items listed, or throwing parts at it. Only other thing I can think of is since it sat for awhile, chewed up wires.

 

I'll check everything you listed, it ran then died and I looked at it right after it died but didn't have the time to work on it. So there shouldn't be any chewed wires and its only sat for a month or two.

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Hit the PCM while trying to start it. Personally I hate working on those old OBD1 PITA things, guess I'm spoiled with OBD2 and all the scanning equipment. Usually by the time I see them at the dealer someone has already thrown a bunch of parts at it and gave up. The early 90s computers are junk and failure is pretty common. Last car like that I had to replace twice because the first one off the shelf was bad too. Have fun bud.
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I know you said there's no DTC's but do you have a OBD1 checker? or how did you check for codes?

 

It's very likely he doesn't have any, most codes in an OBD1 GM clear pretty quickly if they even set in the first place. Not staying running almost certainly would not have codes. It's just how primitive GM's shit was at the time.

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It's very likely he doesn't have any, most codes in an OBD1 GM clear pretty quickly if they even set in the first place. Not staying running almost certainly would not have codes. It's just how primitive GM's shit was at the time.

 

My 89 Iroc would store a code even if the light wasn't on, not the code 12 which basicly says the OBD system is functional.

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My 89 Iroc would store a code even if the light wasn't on, not the code 12 which basicly says the OBD system is functional.

 

Okay well seeing as how those had very similar engine management as the Vette they worked better, we're talking about something a little different for the Olds. GM has always put their best stuff in the Vettes and the f-body was always the next thing to get it.

 

Besides I'm just sharing my experience with the older stuff, its not like I've had to work on very many OBD1 GMs. I was getting stuck with every one of them that came in the shop and I bet I didn't see 1 a month.

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Okay well seeing as how those had very similar engine management as the Vette they worked better, we're talking about something a little different for the Olds. GM has always put their best stuff in the Vettes and the f-body was always the next thing to get it.

 

Besides I'm just sharing my experience with the older stuff, its not like I've had to work on very many OBD1 GMs. I was getting stuck with every one of them that came in the shop and I bet I didn't see 1 a month.

 

well going on what he's saying with his issue the ECU is the most replaced part, 2nd is the Fuel Injectors, 3rd being the Ignition Coil(s) followed by TP sensor, those seem to be the most common issues for that car with that problem

Justin go to Pick-n-Pull and get a used ECU start from there, I think they're $26.99 with a $4.99 core charge

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