Ongoing Project "Nightmare"

[vonrottes]

Figured I'd post something more to introduce myself to the CR forums, since I've not really made it to any of the events to meet the people of CR.

 

So this is my project S10 I started back in April..

It's a 1992 Chevy S10 that originally had a 2.8L and T5.

that I've replaced with a LR4 4.8L and 4L60E.

 

I'm lazy and don't want to spam the thread with pictures so..

Here is an album

https://plus.google.com/photos/111416528613965942716/albums/5927019196674540769?authkey=CO_n-6Lj_Om7_QE

 

it took me at least 3 months to get her running, and if you count the time to buy the parts I bought the engine in January. and made the initial plans July 2012.

Parts:

LR4 & 4L60E

Racing Innovation Stainless shorties *sanderson copies*

ECP 2-core aluminum radiator.

S10V8 Poly engine mounts

JTR Steam vent & set back plates.

Summit fuel lines & fittings.

Aeromotive Stealth 340 fuel pump

Volvo fan & big ass Aluminum sheet pan.

and a lot of little things.

 

Things I've done/changed:

Heat only to clear the head.

Cut a small hole in the frame to access the passenger mount bolts.

Moved the stock cross member back 2"

Moved the rear Axle back 3/8"

Custom CAI with a cheap spectre filter

Added underhood fuse block

Relocated battery

Recessed Radiator in the coresupport.

Added the Blazer center console to "support" adding the Floor shifter.

Added a Bravada DIC with Homelink

 

Other than that nothing has really changed about the exterior appearance of the truck other than the front end sits a little lower..

 

Still yet to do:

15x10 and 15x7 wheels, I'm leaning towards the old slotted mag wheels.

Tubular control arms & coil overs

New spindles to add ABS sensors

ford 8.8 rearend

cal-tracs and new shocks.

Bigger cam, new intake, roller rockers, etc.

and LOTS of body work... Think I'm just going to fix everything and go back with black.

 

 

Everything on this truck was done by me... Accept the PCM flash, I don't have HPtuners and my little sister helped pull the old engine out and put the new one in.

Edited September 24, 2013 by vonrottes

[wnaplay1647545503]

Your link tries to make me login to google.

[vonrottes]

Your link tries to make me login to google.

 

I guess you have to be logged into google to view pictures on Picasa/Google+...

Wait, Try this one

https://plus.google.com/photos/111416528613965942716/albums/5927019196674540769?authkey=CO_n-6Lj_Om7_QE

[AudiOn19s]

Ahhhh this brings back memories.

 

My advice. Spend money on making power vs your planned suspension mods. I went 11's on the stock 7.5" 10 bolt with just a couple tricks. Mine was lowered 4 inches to boot

[vonrottes]

Ahhhh this brings back memories.

 

My advice. Spend money on making power vs your planned suspension mods. I went 11's on the stock 7.5" 10 bolt with just a couple tricks. Mine was lowered 4 inches to boot

 

But it's not a race truck... it's just a toy/Daily Driver.

according to the DIC I'm getting 19mpg back/forth to work and I'd like to keep the nice fuel mileage. Especially since the old 2.8L only got 10mpg city.

 

I'm more or less just trying to update everything to make it a capable street car.

that I could take to some Friday night street fights if I wanted.

and the 8.8 is more than just a stronger axle, it's factory disk brakes and LSD.

[vonrottes]

Forgot I had this thread...

Recent updates:

 

 

Radiator sprung a leak where the cores go into the "cold side" tank..

ECP would not answer my calls or emails so a bottle of Liquid aluminum has "patched" the problem until I can afford a new radiator... Still keeps the engine running under 200F

 

Transmission is dying.. getting very high "TCC slip speed" in excess of 1,000rpm someone told me it's probably the stator plate in the Converter, but I figure I'll just replace everything at once and have a spare transmission I can rebuild.

 

And I've also got a vibration when the engine is revved in Park, Neutral or Drive. starts around 2,000-2,500 and gets worse the higher you go.

Told it could be the flex plate or torque converter.

 

Planning to get a set of BRP mid-length headers on the 28th to replace my Stainless Shorties.... only reason for getting the mids is it will be easier for me to do the exhaust.

Transmission is still planned to be replaced April 11th/12th

 

It's still drivable it's just the fuel mileage has really started to fall off since the transmission is acting up... went from 20mpg city the first week I started driving down to 17 for a while and it's down to 15.4 city right now....

 

Still gets damn good mileage on the highway though 26.5mpg my last trip to Cleveland.

[Fubar231]

Lookin good man! Be nice to see this when its actually finished!

 

What app is that on your phone thats got all the gauges and can datalog everything like that? Or how are you doing that?

[vonrottes]

All that is left is to correct some stuff I "ghetto" rigged to get it running, replace the transmission, rear-end, install the power doors and then start on the body... gotta replace the driver side rocker and both fenders & inner fender wells as well as the bed, then my dad is going to repaint it black with a Blue pearl in the clear.

 

Goal is to have it "finished" by 2015 so I can start my next project....

5.3 turbo 4x4 4speed K5 blazer

 

Torque pro data log creates a spreadsheet and it works via OBDII.

 

EDIT-EDIT:

New link for pictures videos and....random....crap.

http://leameperdue.tumblr.com/tagged/s10

Edited March 18, 2014 by vonrottes

[vonrottes]

Right then.... so After a trip to Troy two weeks ago, I crawled under my truck and noticed the Straps on the u-joint were....EXTREMELY loose, went to tighten them and.... two of the bolts snapped off in the yoke. so instead of replacing the yoke...

I finally got around to putting the 8.8 in that I've had about a month or so.

got the rearend from a 2000 Explorer XLT V8 so it's got 3.73 gears, Disc brakes and Limited slip!

 

didn't want to drill the axles or rotors so I went for some Ford wheels with a high positive offset....ended up getting 16" 2007 Escape wheels, which I personally think look bad ass on the truck.

 

Removal pictures

 

Finished pics

 

Along with the swap I also got a Dana Spicer 3R to 1330 U-joint and I finally put the JTR set-back plates in.

 

Next upgrade will be a Aluminum Drive shaft (probably from an Explorer)

and Power stop brakes all the way around.

with Drilled/slotted rotors and Ceramic pads.

[Cordell]

So what was involved in the 8.8 install? Did you weld in the stock rear tubes to the 8.8 center?

[vonrottes]

So what was involved in the 8.8 install? Did you weld in the stock rear tubes to the 8.8 center?

 

Straight swap over.

 

all I did was clean it up, paint it.... bolt it in.

I'm not making anymore then 255hp, so I didn't really feel I needed to weld the tubes yet.

[vonrottes]

After running around on Ghetto exhaust for over a year... I finally got around to getting it fixed.

 

Stopped by Mad hatter August 29th to see if they would do it... and I was willing to drop $700 if they would but I was told they had to do a stock style Y-pipe with a single cat into either a single out or dual out muffler.

Disappointed I went to Jegs the same day and bought ANOTHER V8 S10 exhaust kit, but this time had the help of my little sister, a 9" cut off wheel and a cheap wire feed welder.

 

The pipes that came in the kit had the flanges cut off with header buddies welded in place, the drive side pipe had three cuts made in it to make it fit the LS headers.

The passenger side just needed to be made longer.

Obviously they also had O2 bungs welded in.

 

All in into the provided muffler (which I love the sound of it) mounted in the stock location with pipes run all the way back to the bumper.

 

I got everything bolted back up on August 31st and then realized I welded the passenger side pipe upside down..

But here are the pictures.

Click me

Hell of a lot better than the flex pipe I had last year and the shit that was falling apart over the summer.

 

Also, got a set of Autopal E-code H4 housings and "HD headlight harness"

More pictures

 

And I also switched to a "HD" 4.3 Radiator stays around 197 which I can live with.

Have not had any problems with leaks, overheating or anything from it.

 

Over the summer I also changed the FPR...AGAIN still having intermittent hard starts (let the fuel pump run until it kicks off and it starts right up)

So I'm thinking I might not have secured the rubber hose in the tank and it's letting the pressure bleed off in the tank.

 

Changed the TPS that was actually broken but transmission still run max line pressure after WOT up/downshift, Also getting some "clunking & whooshing" sounds coming from the transmission, as well as a Vibration when the engine is revved in Neutral/park starts around 2000 and gets really bad after 3000.

 

Think I'm just going to replace the whole transmission, Flex plate and TC this spring.

[vonrottes]

Latest new on the Hoopty...

Radio got stolen and instead of replacing it I but a piece of sheet metal ion the hole and screwed a Ram Ball to it and put a Tablet mount on that.

Inside the radio hole I installed a little Pyle Marine amp with a 3.5mm jack in place of the cigarette lighter, bought a nice scantool SX and have a Nexus 7 LTE as my headunit now, runs Torque and monitor everything my gauges can't and even plays streaming music.

Install pics

 

When my taxes come back I'll be getting a slightly "built" 4L60e with a Trailblazer TC?

and I guess replace the flex plate while I'm at it and I'll also be making some -6an Braided cooler lines with elbows on the transmission for easy servicing. and NO MORE BLOWN LINES! the stuff I'm using is rated to 300psi at I think 50c? and I melted one and the other literally blew the side out of it.

 

and lastly, I'm making plans and saving up to build a new engine...

With what I've got being a stock LR4 only making about 250hp.

I want to build a high compression 4.8L with a goal of 400hp

JE pistons, rework the heads, LS6 intake, MS3 cam? balanced rods and a few other little upgrades like roller rockers and what not. Going to be a slow garage build starting with finding another LR4.

Stock rods and crank should hold up to 10.5:1 and 400hp right?

(Ideally I could find a flexfuel block with the combustion chamber temp sensors and what not so I can run E85)

[vonrottes]

Decided AGAINST a new transmission for the time being.

and instead went with getting some more upgrade parts.

Which include:

a 33mm front sway bar with Energy suspension bushings

Which has decreased body roll to almost nonexistent in normal driving.

 

Still doing the new transmission lines, got the ¼" NTF to -6an adapters two 90* elbows and 20' of braided stainless line, when I install that I might also relocate the transmission cooler to under the truck, add a fan and get a slightly bigger cooler.

 

Got new drilled and slotted rotors for both the front and rear

poly/ceramic Z16 pads for the rear and carbon/ceramic Z23 pads for the front from Powerstop

 

And last of the upgrades is a..... HYDROBOOST.

I know it's nothing special, but they look cooler and provide like 3x the line pressure as a vacuum booster.

I got lucky and found a flat mount unit in a Astrovan.. Gotta replace all of my 15 year old + lines before I install it, which will also be all stainless.

And since I think the power steering pump is also on the way out, I'll go ahead and get a new unit from a truck that had the hydroboost option, so no splicing the return lines and danger of building up pressure.

 

Also had to replace the alternator since the bearing started screaming last Thursday night while I was up around Mt.vernon

 

 

Have not taken pictures of the sway bar yet... it's too damn cold but here are the brakes & pads still sitting in my living room

http://40.media.tumblr.com/45df0ff2019db82f2e34b8dddf6c8f37/tumblr_njzrf3IlaK1suerqbo4_1280.jpg

http://40.media.tumblr.com/35715c8f67de8f3a503b36b9c3d5bb24/tumblr_nk65ho9xrn1suerqbo1_1280.jpg

[iwashmycar]

So purdy arent they. I hope you have better luck than me. My Powerstops 'warped' within 10K miles. Still running the pads. Love those.

[zeitgeist57]

So purdy arent they. I hope you have better luck than me. My Powerstops 'warped' within 10K miles. Still running the pads. Love those.

 

Aww, sux to hear. Was looking at the Powerstops on eBay...

 

You sure it wasn't the pads (that got the rotors hot and warped)? I had eBay rotors on the Passat with good pads and I got 80k miles out of the brakes before Crossle replaced them last summer...

[iwashmycar]

Shouldnt be. I am still running the pads, just now on Brembo blanks. They've been great for a few thousand miles now!

 

As we know 'warping' is just uneven pad deposits, but being drilled NOBODY would turn them, so they were trash. Maybe they just didnt play nice together, which was odd seeing as I bought it all as a package.

[cstmg8]

Aww, sux to hear. Was looking at the Powerstops on eBay...

 

You sure it wasn't the pads (that got the rotors hot and warped)? I had eBay rotors on the Passat with good pads and I got 80k miles out of the brakes before Crossle replaced them last summer...

Jegs will price match. I just bought a set of ctsv fronts from them. That way if you have premature issues, you can return them.

[vonrottes]

I put the pads on my dads 2005 silverado with stock rotors, Dad loves them and I also put the drilled/slotted rotors & Z16 pads on my sisters 2000 sunfire with no problems at all.

 

And from what I can tell they LOOK like decent quality rotors... I mean the rears are just solid discs... but the fronts look on par with oem.

[iwashmycar]

Yeah the FJ isnt nearly as light as those, so I hope it was just too big a truck for them.

[vonrottes]

Hopefully it was just the weight on your FJ

estimating my truck weighs around 2,800lb but It's also gotta stop my truck from high speed......

[vonrottes]

2 weeks ago Finally got the transmission lines installed....without removing the exhaust or transmission.... only cut a bigger hole in the floor

but I got it patched back up.

 

Now sporting -6AN Braided stainless lines on both the fuel and transmission lines.

Upgraded from a junkyard special plate/fin transmission cooler from a 2500 series van to a 15,500btu (24,500 gvw?) Brand new B&M stacked plate cooler

http://36.media.tumblr.com/a6ff72fc3ab7a7a6f8d066290f070ec7/tumblr_nm9t6kNURM1suerqbo2_1280.jpg

http://36.media.tumblr.com/2012d64c7e4b79cd555de0bf9dae3a3e/tumblr_nm9t6kNURM1suerqbo3_1280.jpg

 

I don't know if it's just because I didn't drive the truck for almost 2 weeks or if the new lines actually improved the shifts.

But after topping the transmission off with fluid it FELT like the shifts were a little more precise and just felt smoother

and one thing that has not happened since I put the new lines on is the transmission has not gone into high pressure mode..

So maybe the rubber lines were flexing enough to really screw with the pressure?

(Would really like to find the Line pressure PID for torque )

 

 

Sunday found that my 23 year old coolant tank had a huge crack in the bottom...

and instead of being ghetto and using a NOS bottle with a hose barb or spending the money on a new factory tank... I went to jegs and got a $18 recirculating overflow can.

http://41.media.tumblr.com/e3fc1f80f4cc3c1db826433c8bcb0732/tumblr_nmph9hjMBb1suerqbo1_1280.jpg

 

 

and a REALLY late picture of under the front after the 33mm sway bar got installed

http://41.media.tumblr.com/bae29a1ad47b5967e099518f941ef2d8/tumblr_nmph9hjMBb1suerqbo4_1280.jpg

*don't mind how crappy the exhaust looks at this angle*

 

 

 

Hopefully this summer I'll be able to save up about $1,000 to buy all the body parts I need (Fiberglass fenders and hood, new inner fenders, new rockers, power doors, Toyota front bumper) I've priced the new stuff at just under $600

But I also want to por-15 (or like product) the frame.

this summer I'd also like to get all the electrical fixed, clean up my under hood wiring, refinish the dash, and just kind of start making the truck LOOK as good as it runs.

 

 

Looks like a second job will be in order to make sure I have the cash to finish everything up this summer....

[vonrottes]

I FIXED THINGS I FIXED THINGS!

After nearly two years of running around on blown out header gaskets... I finally bought some MLS gaskets (victor reinz MLS)

 

These are the ones that came with the headers I bought... everyone told me to buy MLS or use RTV and I didn't listen.

http://41.media.tumblr.com/2f9c87630b22089482c6e666dddeb640/tumblr_noprobJ9Ek1suerqbo1_500.jpg

 

No sooner than I started the truck up after tightening the collectors down the CEL came on with a P0332 code... Damn knock sensors.

So I got those replaced Friday and got the chance to clean up 16 years worth of road slime.

http://41.media.tumblr.com/fa2e89cd58e4d51752cd9bd5e4dd2a7f/tumblr_nou8sb9lc71suerqbo1_500.jpg

http://41.media.tumblr.com/31de8516182275d4694f4ee125393738/tumblr_nou8sb9lc71suerqbo2_500.jpg

http://41.media.tumblr.com/24b8964f1cddf6cc0fe805ac724c52ba/tumblr_nou8sb9lc71suerqbo3_500.jpg

 

The amount of carbon in the intake and heads was a bit disturbing... but I just chalked it up to the EGR that was hooked up for 180k

 

But after I got those sensors replaced the truck runs PERFECTLY..

Fuel trims are no longer pegging at +24 at idle and are holding steady at 0.0 to +0.8

and the timing advance has increased by about 12 deg

 

Before the new gaskets and sensors

http://36.media.tumblr.com/616afdf7c2949d805fb5ec51b8957ba7/tumblr_nnu4g9NwZG1suerqbo1_500.png

AFTER gaskets and sensors

http://40.media.tumblr.com/5dacae3551a6bbd9a843cc309ed2f8c8/tumblr_noxw0zvTx11suerqbo1_500.png

 

idle is incredibly smooth.... not quite as smooth as my dads '05 silverado but I do have poly engine mounts not rubber.

Throttle response is great and power output feels as though it has increased....

 

I'm currently researching aerodynamics for a few things some people might not approve of... but will, if done correctly be very beneficial for power and handling

[vonrottes]

After months of having them, I was forced to replace the brakes early last weekend...

Apparently decelerating 60mph by slamming on 10 year old pads isn't good for them.

 

Front's literally fell apart when I pulled them off, rears were cracked.

The passenger side wheel bearings were rusty and all four rotors were horribly grooved.

 

http://36.media.tumblr.com/1c27de26f0317d7410cad39a6e25ffb8/tumblr_np6fo4IClD1suerqbo3_500.jpg

http://40.media.tumblr.com/63a143886221127ea8bc29ab983202c7/tumblr_np6fo4IClD1suerqbo4_500.jpg

 

Replaced all the front hardware (bearings, grease seals, dusts caps, Calipers and hoses)

rears I just slapped on the new parts.

 

Something else I'm working on is adding a 2002 Camaro BCM which will add an alarm, R.A.P, battery rundown protection, keyless entry and other silly things that make modern cars so convenient.

[vonrottes]

After I lost oil pressure I decided to just get a new engine since there was a chance of it being a real problem and I might have needed to get one anyways...

 

Soi I got a 2004 LM7 with 143k on it.

http://40.media.tumblr.com/429b23b2a3398e0b88c7a7bca06d38ab/tumblr_nrcw99AeXt1suerqbo2_540.jpg

 

lololol

http://40.media.tumblr.com/e4a52a3fa846ef66d1958f7a18a85fda/tumblr_nrcw99AeXt1suerqbo9_540.jpg

 

http://36.media.tumblr.com/ca8d330025e8272138c512411721dd42/tumblr_nrcw99AeXt1suerqbo6_540.jpg

http://40.media.tumblr.com/896857fa6cd867d1a865f775b222eb0b/tumblr_nrcw99AeXt1suerqbo7_540.jpg

http://40.media.tumblr.com/c853b9de350cad3e699b2db902335999/tumblr_nrcw99AeXt1suerqbo8_540.jpg

 

And all the valves on the old engine looked like this.

http://41.media.tumblr.com/06e9d16e67b240a0418afaa73526a469/tumblr_nrcwdcEYIN1suerqbo2_540.jpg

 

 

Currently the engine is out, I need to get an oil pump o-ring, torque convertor bolts.

redoing the wiring to get rid of silverado fusebox and have it run into factory fusebox under the dash also threading the collector bolt holes so instead of fighting with nuts/bolts I'll just have ½" bolts to tighten up...

Hoping to have it done tomorrow.

 

295hp and 330tq should really be fun considering the LR4 was only 255hp & 285tq