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New clutch.


Ws6Band1t2807
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Sorry if I'm outve line but I've tried searching and wasn't able to find the info I was looking for. (I'm pretty new to forum and on mobile) I have an 02 ws6 and after launching my car for the first time I have learned my clutch can't handle shit. I'm looking for advice and opinions on a new clutch (brand,stage,ect) on what I should look for in a replacement. My car is putting about 390 at the motor and about 350 to the ground acording to dyno sheet. I've heard talks of Spec, monster, and just a ls7 clutch. I'm hoping you guys could help with info and thoughts! I'm pretty ignorant to all of this so any info is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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Well I make a little more power then that in my Camaro and decided to go with a Monster level 2. It drive like stock, holds the power, and is very consitant in feel. I've driven a few cars with an LS7 clutch and they can feel inconsistant the way the pressure plate is designed, though they're not a bad option I just prefer the way a basic strong performance clutch feels. People will tell you lots of good and bad things about clutches, but a properly set up clutch with good hydrolics will make the most difference. I know people who've had Spec, McLeod, and GM clutches without any real issue.

 

I would strongly suggest you consider upgrading to a nice master cylinder like Tick or Hawks. They make a huge difference, and you'll find lots of good info on LS1Tech.com in their manual trans section on everything I'm talking about.

 

If you do want to go with Monster Clutch, check out Brute Speed.com, bought a few items from him without issue and you can not beat the prices. The Tick adjustable master, and Hawks is identical as they both use a Tilton master with the apropriate mounting provisions. Hawks is a few bucks cheaper on ebay, this is what I have. Best of luck, hope this helps.

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Thanks for the reply! This info was very helpful! May I ask why you went with the stage 2 instead of 3? Are you not doing any more mods? Do you happen to know anything about the stage 3? My brother (user I Drive it... It breaks) suggests I go ahea with the stage 3 tht way it's there for when I do more upgrades. I'm curious to know your thoughts on that. Are prices better through speedbrute vs buying directly from monster? I know it's a lot of questions (I'm new to owning a sports car) but I'm also curious in what you did for your break in? Did you follow the 500 mile rule I city driving? I've also read about heat cycles instead. I'm also curious about how you drive with your clutch, do you drive like a normal person would drive a manual (when regular driving) or do you look to "dump" it and get it to catch as quickly as possible? Thanks again!
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Well I wanted a stockish feel because I cruise in the car much more then race it at this point, and having a ceramic single disk with a sprung center was important to me. The stage 3 has pucks and wouldn't be as smooth and easy to drive, not that its impossible to do just not what I was after. I did the 500 miles to break it in, it's basically to heat cycle everything to make it consistant and last longer so I would suggest at least doing it some with any clutch. I drive it fairly normal most of the time, but I'm not afraid to power shift it. Brute Speed was much cheaper then anyone including Monster.
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Depends a lot on the design and intended use of the clutch, obviously with two or three disks there is more surface area, but this can help hold more power while being streetable or just to hold more power and chatter and grab like a race clutch. The LS9 clutch is a ver streetable clutch that will hold over 900hp, but something like a much cheaper McLeod dual disk will chatter and be much less streetable at the same power level. It can be hard to compare driving feel and ability because there are so many choices out there.

 

If you are going to wear out your new clutch before you do many major mods I would stick with something closer to stock. A full size single disk (12" clutch) is typically going to be similar to stock until you get into agressive materials. A smaller diameter clutch (11" or so in LS1 land) is typically going to be more agressive and keep weight down, but likely to chatter and have a small window of engaugment. Dual and triple disk clutches are going to be similar, but for them to be "stockish" they are going to be really expensive, iirc an LS9 package would cost around $1800.

 

You need to decide what your goals are and how you want the car to behave, and decide what fits in that when you factor in your budget. Have you ever driven a really aggressive clutch? Some people can tolerate a lot more then others, so you get into the old "what's really streetable" argument. Best of luck, I'll continue to try and help if I can. You should read a lot of the decriptions of the clutches on Tickperformance.com it may help you out.

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My opinion to him was to get the stage 3. Right now he says he plans on a cam and nothing else as far as performance. He has had the car for a month and doesn't realize how much things can change in 5 years of toy ownership. The stage 3 is only $50 more and will take a shit ton of abuse. Due to his attraction to men, he is a giant pussy and way more concerned about driving like a bitch than I am. A little bit stiffer clutch doesn't bother me in a car I Drive on Saturdays. Sure he has put a bit of miles on it now but it is new. He also has a brand new Harley and an extensive dildo collection that will take over a lot of his driving time after the newness wears off. I don't worry about a tad aggressiveness in terms of street manners in my " hot rod" . I have also always been a supporter of over building when it comes to clutches and transmissions.
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