zeitgeist57 Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 I washed my CTS-V over a week ago and then parked it in the garage for the last several days. Yesterday, I went to move it to get Christmas decorations out of the garage and the brakes were frozen so badly it almost stalled the engine. I rocked it back once on the clutch and the snap of the pads braking loose was so loud wifey heard it inside our house. I bought the car with aftermarket brakes/rotors installed within the last couple of years. There is a slight brake vibration at highway speeds, but plenty of material on the pads and rotor thickness is great. However, I don't know what pads the PO used. Would pads OR rotors cause that much surface rust tension? When I walked around the car after breaking it free the outline of the pads was clearly visible in the rotor surface rust. If I turned the rotors and swapped in ceramic pads, would this eliminate the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEVE-O Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 e-brake, happens often when it gets very cold like it did with ice last week. If it broke free and operates fine now I would not worry about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 That makes sense. I did have the e-brake engaged. Dunno why, as I usually just leave it in 1st or Reverse. So...any surface rust from the pads showing up on the rotors shouldn't have frozen the car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trouble Maker Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 If you take everything apart and rub the pads and rotors on some concrete, put everything back together and re-bed the pads/rotors together, you should be good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEVE-O Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 If you take everything apart and rub the pads and rotors on some concrete, put everything back together and re-bed the pads/rotors together, you should be good to go. this will def help, The pad sat and caused footprinting on the rotor, sometime driving it will clean it up depending how bad it was but re-bedding the pads will work for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Bastard Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Lube your e-brake system well. It usually just takes backing up a little to brake it free, but if you leave it alone it could start to get worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cordell Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 I agree it was likely the e-brake that stuck, but it sound like the PO used crappy rotors and the pad outline (commonly refered to as lot rot) will cause a braking vibration or pulsation. It may or may not be very bad, but because you commented that it did it already I'd say ypu have cheap brakes. Worst things for brakes is cheap metal used to make the rotors, sitting and getting lot rot, or improper wheel torque. So buy some quality stuff, properly torque the wheels and go down the street and dry your brakes off after you wash it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
POS VETT Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Something about rubbing anything on concrete, dem iz majik. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Jones Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 More common than you think, especially with pads that have lots of metallic content. It's actually mentioned in the owner's manual on the GTR. One guy could not rock his free under power at all..dealer had to get involved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acklac7 Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 On a somewhat related note I had the rear rotors rust themselves solid to the hub on the SC a few years back. Had to take a scissor jack (braced and against the strut) in order to snap them free. Shit went boom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 On a somewhat related note I had the rear rotors rust themselves solid to the hub on the SC a few years back. Had to take a scissor jack (braced and against the strut) in order to snap them free. Shit went boom. This is usually when you use a BFH.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acklac7 Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 (edited) This is usually when you use a BFH.... I used all 4 at my disposal (Including a big fkn dead-blow): no dice. Maybe if it was on a lift and I could get a running start I could have smacked it loose, but the fucker was rusted solid to the hub. Somewhat common problem on the SC's from what i've read. Edited December 2, 2014 by acklac7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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