jeffro Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 Way beyond my scope of knowledge, so ill let someone else answer. I have been extremely happy with my cast iron 23 year old Craftsman. Yesterday i spent some time building some sleds. Saturday i tried to make something that involved 45* angles and it turned out bad, so figured some sleds would solve that issue. went with a basic design using 3/4" birch plywood and solid oak for the runners. http://i.imgur.com/fAvh4JT.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ZSufwCb.jpg While making the runners i figured it was a good time to make a zero clearance insert. On several occasions i have had little bits fall down into the opening creating a ruckus. Seen in the first pic above. Also made from oak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Cranium Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 Just my opinion on choosing the larger tools, make sure to take into account your shop size. If you have a crap ton of space for large tools, then by all means go for it. But if you fill up your shop space with tools you won't have room to work and you'll just get frustrated. Recently I've given away some of my fathers tools because they simply were too large for me to use and took up too much room in the shop. One of them was a gigantic Bellsaw thickness planer. I replaced it with a small benchtop Dewalt and I'm pretty happy with the extra room I have. I also gave away the lathe and will not be replacing that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Cranium Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 Way beyond my scope of knowledge, so ill let someone else answer. I have been extremely happy with my cast iron 23 year old Craftsman. Yesterday i spent some time building some sleds. Saturday i tried to make something that involved 45* angles and it turned out bad, so figured some sleds would solve that issue. went with a basic design using 3/4" birch plywood and solid oak for the runners. http://i.imgur.com/fAvh4JT.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ZSufwCb.jpg While making the runners i figured it was a good time to make a zero clearance insert. On several occasions i have had little bits fall down into the opening creating a ruckus. Seen in the first pic above. Also made from oak Those looks great to me. joinery is critical if you're looking to do really nice work. I haven't had much of a chance to use it, but I recently bought a digital angle finder. http://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Digital-Protractor-Stainless-Bladed/dp/B00AEIB3Y0/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1456756790&sr=1-6&keywords=digital+angle+finder The difference between 44 and 45 degrees is huge. This way I can make sure to dial in the settings on the saws. Good blades make a difference as well. I'm not sure what blades I'm going with. Maybe Diablo. I'd love to get really good ones, but $100+ per blade is hard to justify. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffro Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 Those looks great to me. joinery is critical if you're looking to do really nice work. I haven't had much of a chance to use it, but I recently bought a digital angle finder. http://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Digital-Protractor-Stainless-Bladed/dp/B00AEIB3Y0/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1456756790&sr=1-6&keywords=digital+angle+finder The difference between 44 and 45 degrees is huge. This way I can make sure to dial in the settings on the saws. Good blades make a difference as well. I'm not sure what blades I'm going with. Maybe Diablo. I'd love to get really good ones, but $100+ per blade is hard to justify. That is the kind of angle gauge i need. The wixey one wont work because i know for a fact my floor isn't even. $15 on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Electronic-Digital-Protractor-Goniometer-Angle-Finder-Miter-Gauge-/140775658827?hash=item20c6e2154b:g:X9MAAOSw8lBTq1nA I have been having good success with the bosch kerf blades from menards. little tear out and no burn marks. Really don't see the need for anything more than that. I only paid like $25 for mine. PS- Johnsons paste wax is awesome. I picked some up yesterday to finish the table top with and its slicker than a whores %@$$&. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWill Posted February 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 That is the kind of angle gauge i need. The wixey one wont work because i know for a fact my floor isn't even. $15 on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Electronic-Digital-Protractor-Goniometer-Angle-Finder-Miter-Gauge-/140775658827?hash=item20c6e2154b:g:X9MAAOSw8lBTq1nA I have been having good success with the bosch kerf blades from menards. little tear out and no burn marks. Really don't see the need for anything more than that. I only paid like $25 for mine. PS- Johnsons paste wax is awesome. I picked some up yesterday to finish the table top with and its slicker than a whores %@$$&. What do you mean the Wixey won't work because of your floor? It's not just a digital protractor, it swings open like the one you linked. As far as table saws go, I would go with 220v with whatever you decide on. As mentioned above, how much space do you have? I would (and did) find an older Delta or Powermatic cabinet saw if you have the room. I haven't looked at many of the new hybrid saws but go with the forum reviews, not Lowes, HD, etc. Lumberjocks is great. The Wood Whisperer also has some good reviews, projects, etc. Also, Anderson's has their 20% off coupon this week. They sell Diablo blades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffro Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 What do you mean the Wixey won't work because of your floor? It's not just a digital protractor, it swings open like the one you linked. As far as table saws go, I would go with 220v with whatever you decide on. As mentioned above, how much space do you have? I would (and did) find an older Delta or Powermatic cabinet saw if you have the room. I haven't looked at many of the new hybrid saws but go with the forum reviews, not Lowes, HD, etc. Lumberjocks is great. The Wood Whisperer also has some good reviews, projects, etc. Also, Anderson's has their 20% off coupon this week. They sell Diablo blades Ah, i thought it used gravity to get the angle. my mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWill Posted February 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 No worries just wanted to clarify http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160229/ed3c5263f4c1fd753eac088fdcd8ced1.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williaty Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 No, Delta isn't what they used to be. Sometimes the tools are ok, sometimes the tools are crap. Problem is that sometimes they have repair parts and other times you can wait over a year for a repair part, if you ever get it at all. Current-production Delta is not something I'd consider. If I were you, I'd take a serious look at the SawStop contractor's saw (based on the price range you're looking at). People online always argue about whether the safety system is a good thing or a bad thing and somehow totally forget to mention that the saws themselves are actually really damned good saws. My SawStop PCS has the nicest movements and adjustments on any saw I've ever felt up to about 4x the price. It runs smoothly, is easy to adjust, and every time I've picked up the phone, I've reached someone with an accent I could easily understand. You can check them out at both Wood Werks Supply on the East side and Woodcraft in the center-west. The other thing I did that I REAAAAAALY love with the table saw is to pony up the cash to buy the Incra TS-LS fence system. I LOVE it. I can just set the fence to the exact measurement I want, no trying to tap it this way or that to get it just so, and I can come back 6 months later and cut a second piece EXACTLY the same size as the existing piece so precisely that you can't feel a difference if you stack them and run your fingers over the edges. There's really no other fence on the market that allows that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWill Posted March 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Finished up the bottle holder. The dogs wanted to see as well http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160301/895c947a6a14bad4ed5dcf0f360ba910.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffro Posted March 2, 2016 Report Share Posted March 2, 2016 Oh I get it. It's a cowboy riding the bottle. That stuff is hot right now. Would sell easy if you tried Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Cranium Posted March 3, 2016 Report Share Posted March 3, 2016 Quick question for you guys. I'm planning a lot of cabinet work and debating on a new Dovetail jig. The one I have now is okay (Dovetail Wiz from Peachtree), but I'm going to need a LOT of drawers and planning on using dovetail joints for the drawer boxes. I was looking at the website for Woodwerks and really didn't see many dovetail jig options. Has the dovetail been replaced by a better joint? Should I be planning on using a different joint for the boxes? I think the dovetail is kind of an elegant joint, and makes the work look better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williaty Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 Wood Werks focuses a lot more on production woodworking while Woodcraft focuses more on hobby woodworking. Dovetail jigs are too slow for production woodworking. The Festool Domino, doweling jigs, and pocket screws (VERY INFERIOR) have really taken over for production work. If you want a better dovetailing jig, the only one I'd consider is the Leigh D4R Pro since it allows you to custom-design the exact layout of the pins/tails to your current project. It really makes them look as good as hand-cut, unlike the cheaper jigs that have a fixed spacing. That being said, I'm not a fan of the dovetail look, so I do everything with the Domino. Faster, easier, and produces VERY strong, very precise joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Cranium Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 That makes sense. I can see that Dovetails are a slower process. I'm less concerned about my time than the final product. I like the look of the Leigh, but not sure I can justify the $600 price tag. I think the fixed spacing will work okay for me. I like the Domino though. I was planning on pocket screwing my face frames for the cabinets, but I might try doing some with the Domino. I can see that being a superior joint. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffro Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 i need to get a pocket hole jig, but damn, they arent cheap. Honestly though, wouldnt a proper glueing be stronger than a PH anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRocket1647545505 Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 What's with the pocket hole hate? I'm new to woodworking, but it seems sufficient enough for quick projects. Granted, not as elegant as some fancy joinery nor as strong. Honestly curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffro Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 A coworker of mine gave me a free electric motor yesterday so if i get time this weekend i am going to turn it into a disc sander. Been wanting one, but dont really have the cash to drop on a good one and im not in the mood to buy a cheapo HF one. I imagine anything I make would be 10x better than most HF stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffro Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 What's with the pocket hole hate? I'm new to woodworking, but it seems sufficient enough for quick projects. Granted, not as elegant as some fancy joinery nor as strong. Honestly curious. For entertainment purposes only... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffro Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Current project. Long way to go yet. http://i.imgur.com/P3JuczKl.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williaty Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 I like the Domino though. I was planning on pocket screwing my face frames for the cabinets, but I might try doing some with the Domino. I can see that being a superior joint. Thanks! Yeah the Domino creates a loose (or floating) mortise and tennon joint. It's VERY strong and stable if sized correctly. The Domino works on small projects up to medium-small furniture. The Domino XL works on medium-small furniture up to giant things like barn doors. Honestly though, wouldnt a proper glueing be stronger than a PH anyway? The answer, as with so many things, is "it depends". If you're gluing long grain to long grain, a properly prepped and clamped joint using PVA glue (normal Titebond, etc) is unbelievably strong, much stronger than the wood itself. However, gluing endgrain to anything else is really, really weak. Miters sort of split the difference in strength since they're only kinda endgrain. The purpose of 90% of the joinery we do is to find a way around the weakness of gluing endgrain to something. Pocket holes are very often used for things like drawer boxes, face frames, and other butt joints. In those kinds of joints, you'd be trying to glue long grain to end grain, which doesn't work very well. Pocket holes just run a screw through the problem, but that's not a great solution for a number of reasons. Traditionally, a mortise and tennon was used (or a half-lap if you can allow endgrain to show) because this "converts" the joint so you're gluing long grain to long grain again. A pocket hole joint will be much stronger than a glued butt joint but much weaker than a properly designed mortise and tennon or half-lap joint. What the pocket hole unarguably is is faster and requires waaaaaay less skill. What's with the pocket hole hate? I'm new to woodworking, but it seems sufficient enough for quick projects. Granted, not as elegant as some fancy joinery nor as strong. PH's tend to be applied as a one-fix-wonder to every woodworking problem. 90% of the time, they're a bad solution because they're not strong enough, not stiff enough, and don't locate the members precisely enough. They tend to be useful when they're just holding something together (like a cabinet faceframe) long enough for you to stick it to the thing that's actually providing the strength, rigidity, and structure. Of course, once you have something like a Domino, you can put joints together as fast as you can a pocket hole, for less money per joint, with greater strength, and greater accuracy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Cranium Posted March 5, 2016 Report Share Posted March 5, 2016 Yeah the Domino creates a loose (or floating) mortise and tennon joint. It's VERY strong and stable if sized correctly. The Domino works on small projects up to medium-small furniture. The Domino XL works on medium-small furniture up to giant things like barn doors. Well, that escalated quickly. Maybe some time I'll try one, but I just saw the price tag. If I buy that I won't be able to afford to buy wood for any projects. I'll have to stick with pocket screws for the time being. I don't dislike pocket screws, but if there is a better way of doing things I would prefer to go that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWill Posted March 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 I really reallllyyy wish a Domino was in the budget right now. Every time I almost pull the trigger I think of how many other tools I want/ can get for the price. One day Also, HF sells a pocket hole jig. I think it's around $55-60 on sale. I used over 300 PH screws on my garage cabinets and several hundred just on random cheap tool cabinets. It has worked flawlessly. My dad has the Kreg one and mine works just as well for anything I have done. The bit that comes with the HF jig wore out after a few hundred holes through 3/4 sheathing. I spent $10 on a Kreg bit and was back to business. I'm still using the same one several hundred later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NWill Posted March 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 PH's tend to be applied as a one-fix-wonder to every woodworking problem. 90% of the time, they're a bad solution because they're not strong enough, not stiff enough, and don't locate the members precisely enough. They tend to be useful when they're just holding something together (like a cabinet faceframe) long enough for you to stick it to the thing that's actually providing the strength, rigidity, and structure. Of course, once you have something like a Domino, you can put joints together as fast as you can a pocket hole, for less money per joint, with greater strength, and greater accuracy. Truth. PH jigs are great for face frames but make sure you have that bish clamped well. The self-tapping screws like to move whatever you're driving them into. The Domino really is a game changer from everything I have heard/read but damn it is not cheap. I'm sure it doesn't take much to make it worth every penny but that's a stiff investment. And for anyone considering Festool, do it this month. Prices go up April 1st. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williaty Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 The price for a Domino gets even worse when you realize it requires a high-end dust collector like one of the Festool CT-vacs or the Fein equivalent. When I first started buying into the Festool system, I was really dubious about their vacs. How could a damned vacuum cleaner possibly justify that price?!?! I have to laugh at myself now because, of all the Festool stuff I've bought, that vac is the best (and it's all been VERY good). You just won't believe how much difference it makes to have a vac that's so quiet you can talk over it in a normal voice, so efficient of a filter that most smells don't even come out, and yet so powerful it'll eat a screwdriver if you mistakenly let it get too close to the hose. For the first month, I was constantly fishing tools out of it that it had sucked up from a distance I was sure was impossible. Now, after having it and the tools to go with it, I'm so used to woodworking being basically clean that I'm absolutely appalled when I have to use a tool with even average dust collection. The sander, for instance, actually cleans up the workpiece rather than makes it dusty because the vac and the dust collection are so good. Festool is something I wouldn't suggest buying just one tool of. The real advantage to the system comes from the fact that it's a system. You buy the tracksaw and get a rail. Then you run the jigsaw and router on the rail too. You buy the MFT to use under the rail and suddenly you have perfect square corners and angles on everything. It all works together in a way that allows you to get a lot of extremely precise work done in a small space with a lot of versatility. If you think you'll only ever want just a router, just a jigsaw, or whatever, it's probably better value to look elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Cranium Posted March 6, 2016 Report Share Posted March 6, 2016 The price for a Domino gets even worse when you realize it requires a high-end dust collector like one of the Festool CT-vacs or the Fein equivalent. When I first started buying into the Festool system, I was really dubious about their vacs. How could a damned vacuum cleaner possibly justify that price?!?! I have to laugh at myself now because, of all the Festool stuff I've bought, that vac is the best (and it's all been VERY good). You just won't believe how much difference it makes to have a vac that's so quiet you can talk over it in a normal voice, so efficient of a filter that most smells don't even come out, and yet so powerful it'll eat a screwdriver if you mistakenly let it get too close to the hose. For the first month, I was constantly fishing tools out of it that it had sucked up from a distance I was sure was impossible. Now, after having it and the tools to go with it, I'm so used to woodworking being basically clean that I'm absolutely appalled when I have to use a tool with even average dust collection. The sander, for instance, actually cleans up the workpiece rather than makes it dusty because the vac and the dust collection are so good. Festool is something I wouldn't suggest buying just one tool of. The real advantage to the system comes from the fact that it's a system. You buy the tracksaw and get a rail. Then you run the jigsaw and router on the rail too. You buy the MFT to use under the rail and suddenly you have perfect square corners and angles on everything. It all works together in a way that allows you to get a lot of extremely precise work done in a small space with a lot of versatility. If you think you'll only ever want just a router, just a jigsaw, or whatever, it's probably better value to look elsewhere. Oh man ... I'm sold. Those look like amazingly well designed tools with workers instead of manufacturing in mind. I just need to sell a kidney and my corneas to pay for it now. Maybe if I get into building custom cabinetry on the side I could start paying for that level of tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffro Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Spent the last few nights working on the disc sander. Started with a 1/3 HP motor i got for free. Began by building the mount for the disc. After a few minutes of research i discovered that a 1/2" pipe is just barely smaller than the diameter of the shaft i have. 10 seconds with a little round sanding barrel on my dremel and it slipped right over the shaft. Drilled a hole and tapped it for a set screw (first time tapping something, woo). The disc itself is just a piece of melamine i had laying around. Used pieces of paper as shims to get the wobbles out. http://i.imgur.com/EkvQc35.jpg http://i.imgur.com/nNGZvrP.jpg Next step was to begin building an enclosure for it. http://i.imgur.com/pXEzZsX.jpg Enclosure complete http://i.imgur.com/o5PZCa7.jpg Electricals complete. The only thing left is to finish the wood. Im having a hard time deciding if i want to varnish it or paint it. I am thinking some weird random color but i like the wood too. http://i.imgur.com/V2fGYKr.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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