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Help find me a car


Ackbar00
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Budget - 7K

Desire - Classic. 2 door. Sporty

 

Been wanting to get back into something every since the Mach 1 was sold. Right now, I am leaning towards a classic. Been looking at Mustangs, Nova's, Camaro's, etc. Anything 60's/early 70's honestly. Even considered a few Fox Body's, but really wanting to try a classic. Given the budget, looking for a driver. Don't care about the engine/trans combo, more than likely, they will get swapped out with something better in the following years. Really don't want to get into paint, interior repair, rust, etc. I know the budget, makes this a chore (Been looking for awhile). Been on multiple forums and Craigslist looking for awhile. Figured Id see what others found.

 

Here is my current front runner, going next weekend to look at it. Try to get past the rims, they would be the first thing to go....

 

http://www.qualitycarz.com/1970-Ford-Mustang/Used-Car/Lorain-OH/5777779/Details.aspx

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If you could stretch your budget, I'll have a V8 swapped 1991 318is for sale shortly. Doesn't fit your 60s/70s criteria, but does look like a german fox body in my opinion. They definitely aren't dropping in price.
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I thought my old turbo car had a lot of vacuum hoses....

 

I could get Coreys GN (Still thinking about it), just needs a lot of work and I know I wont have the money to do what needs to be done.

 

It is a factory color. Said and some point, it was repainted and had some more flake added to it. (Given the rims, I am not surprised...) Has some paint issues, dash is cracked, but overall seems solid.

 

Id check it over once there, looking for shoty work. I know given the price point, its not going to be the nicest, but gives me something to build on.

Some more pics of the car:

https://cleveland.craigslist.org/ctd/5503138588.html

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Get a real good look underneath that mustang. Esp the Torque Box. I can't tell you how many old mustangs I have looked at over the years with rusty, tweaked, or bad torque boxes. In fact it is probably the #1 reason I have never bought a classic mustang. It's not hard to repair them properly now that repair panels exist, but they are rust prone and for years were just badly patched and cobbled together when panels weren't available. Don't just look at the box, look at the support and surronding metal, without a strong one the car will basically jiggle like jello.

 

here is a guide from CJ pony parts on how to install torque box repair panels so you can understand the area you are looking at:

http://www.cjponyparts.com/mustang-two-piece-torque-box-1967-1970-installation-instructions/a/386/

 

If I were looking for a classic notchback mustang I would look at the 1965-68 body style, particularly the 67-68. Although I love the 1970 front end, the earlier cars have a road racing legacy in Trans am and european rally racing and just look the part sitting on fat gumballs at all four corners.

 

I mean, just look at it:

http://1-photos.ebizautos.com/used-1967-shelby-mustang-groupiinotchback-9423-5117120-1-640.jpg

 

I feel like maybe you should look at some of these cars in addition to that 1970:

http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/5495061715.html

http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/5485817992.html

http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/cto/5530723674.html

http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/cto/5500081644.html

http://youngstown.craigslist.org/cto/5519099534.html

 

remember the old collector car adage about 60's mustangs: "they made too many of them for them to ever be really rare or valuable". Which means if you can't find the one you are looking for, wait a week as different ones come to market all the time. If you can't find a nice clean, driver 60's notchback for under $10K you aren't really trying.

 

Oh I forgot to add, ask any seller if they have the Marti report for their car. http://www.martiauto.com/reports2.cfm Marti Auto Works has access to the database and can tell you what the car was originally built with by vin. It isn't worth paying for a car you don't own, but sometimes owners get them anyway so it is fun to look at.

 

Finally, Mustangs have about 3-4 hidden vin numbers in addition to the original tag. Their location is different for every year but usually it is the windshield base and the left and right inner fenders (aprons). Make sure they all match so as to avoid buying a car that is a re-tag stolen vehicle. Also if the one on say the left inner fender doesn't match the rest of the car you might want to ask the owner about accident or rust repair using used parts. Look up the locations for the car you are checking out. I think Marti has a book published on mustang vin codes that has diagrams.

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I've never really cared for the '69+ coupes, but that one has potential for the money. Maybe see if they'd be interested in keeping the wheels? You could easily find some cheap rollers to get it home on. Some stance adjustment, blacked out tail panel, and some 03-04 Mach 1 wheels would be budget friendly and make a big difference in appearance.
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Good info there Geeto. Ive been looking at the Blue one from WV for awhile, figured if this one was a pile, that would be my next look at.

 

Here is a vid they sent:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0Jqz3LGAxGRa0FYYld3dTc4bGc/view?usp=drive_web

 

And here is a better look at the trunk, under car pics they sent me.

http://s980.photobucket.com/user/ackbar00/library/Mustang/70%20Mustang?sort=3&page=1

 

 

Paint has some issues. Drivers door been replaced. Seems like they are being as honest as they know about the car. Of course, really find out for sure until I see it in person.

 

Just really not into C3, C4's

Edited by Ackbar00
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so aside from classic, 2-door and sporty what are you really looking to do?

 

Do you really want a mustang? or will you consider other larger cars?

 

Personally, I would really consider Lucore's '66 Galaxy. Sure it is larger than a mustang or even a fairlane, but hey, it's a fullsize. But they used to race them in nascar so it isn't like there isn't a sporty car lurking inside there.

 

Are you looking for something engaging to drive, or is it really just cruise with the family to events?

 

Mustangs are great because they have the largest old car aftermarket and can be made really sporty. Bone stock, the suspension blows dogs for quarters. Also despite being "big ol' american iron" the interiors in them don't really have great leg room. Sure they are wide, but length the 4 door honda civic has more back seat room. 1st and 2nd gen camaros/firebirds are the same thing - amazing aftermarket but stock suspension like a buckboard.

 

If you are looking for an old car to drive aggressively but don't want to invest a lot in suspension right away, I would consider a GM A-body from 1964-1972, esp Buicks, Oldsmobiles, and Pontiacs. The front suspension geometry is awful (positive camber as the suspension unloads) but they make inexpensive parts to fix it, the rears are coil spring with 4 locating bars that usually only need a decent sway bar, boxed control arms, and something to limit wheel hop to be pretty darn good. If you want to go back a little further(1961-63) you can get A-body pontiacs with a transaxle and buicks with independent rear suspensions.

 

If you don't care about power or a back seat, but do want some handling prowess I would look at a 1965-69 corvair coupe as well. I had a '66 monza convertible that handled awesome in the dry (wet was another story because the car was unbalanced).

 

 

 

How about something like this:

http://sandusky.craigslist.org/cto/5521631095.html

you can haul a lot of family in the back and it does it all just not all well.

 

Look at how clean a car you can get for the money, and you can spend the rest on making it a yenko Stinger clone:

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/5536440027.html

 

does it have to be american? I have owned a shit ton of junky old muscle cars and to be honest one of the cars I consistently regret selling and pine for is my 1976 BMW 2002:

http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/5535960838.html

 

if you are looking for something you can really tear in and modify these tend to be the bargain of the old bmw set, the only issue is resale:

 

http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/5492060875.html

 

But fender flares, wide gumbals, an m42 swap it would be a pretty hot car. They drive like a heavier 2002 but have all the front suspension improvements.

 

And there is that old saying that every car guy needs to own at least one alfa romeo:

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/5517157813.html

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Definitively not a JDM kind of guy. Not much of a Euro guy either. 0% chance on a corvair. Would consider other 60's muscle, assuming I can find something that screams, ME. I mean, my Craigslist searches have been years. "1960" etc. So I am looking at a lot. Would consider another Fox Body, but would really only want another Reef Blue car.

 

Honestly, if I get the 70, it would probably get LS swapped next year. For what nice heads cost for a 302/351, I could almost be done with an LS build.

Maybe buy this and put it on a JY 5.3

https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/pts/5530339519.html

 

 

I'm pretty set on the 70. If it turns out to be a pile, I'm going to look elsewhere, but "seems" a nice solid starting point interior and body wise for the price. I am wondering if he has the stock rims and knock another 500$ off the price.....

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I was looking for something else related to rust repair last night and I stumbled on this link. It has pictures of the common rust areas for 1964-1970 mustangs so it is a good guide for what to look for when you go evaluate that 1970.

 

http://averagejoerestoration.com/selecting-and-purchasing-a-classic-mustang/

 

LS swap a classic mustang? why? I get that it is "easier" and such because you don't have to modify the shock towers and ls engines put out a ton of power (more than the stock chassis can handle) but part of the appeal of having an old car is having the quirks of old engine tech. If it were me I would want a road race 289 or maybe a solid lifter engine, something with a top end and kinda stupid, like a street legal '65 GT350 race mill. I mean, the chassis barely could hold the 200hp these things put out stock (that's why the strut tower braces became so important) ramping it up to 400+ is going to require you to pour buckets of money in the chassis.

 

If you just want to do it to piss off purists, put an old school 426 hemi in it and stand back and watch heads explode.

 

If you want to be just billy badass you could resurrect this for the street:

http://lexington.craigslist.org/cto/5479428252.html

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Thanks for that link

 

Why? Been wanting to do a LS Swap something. Cheaper easier to make power. Hearts not set on it, just keeping it as a possibility.

 

In the 11th hour....

So now I am going to look at this one first. If I can get the price down, and it seems pretty solid, sweet. If not, will move on to the 70.

https://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/5532132424.html

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Might have to stretch the budget for one in decent condition, but late 60s/early 70s Olds 442. I admit it's a personal dream of mine to own one, and a lot of examples are rusty, but if you can find a decent one a few states south for a good price, I'd 100% go that route.
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Thanks for that link

 

Why? Been wanting to do a LS Swap something. Cheaper easier to make power. Hearts not set on it, just keeping it as a possibility.

 

If it were me I would just keep it GM because of the aftermarket support and parts availability. You can get the mounts and brackets for every car from a 60's GTO to 1980's Iroc, and the space largely supports it. From what I hear with old mustangs, the hardest part is that any trans you can use behind an LS would require the trans tunnel and parts of the drive-shaft tunnel enlarged. but if you are going to do it it's your issue to solve for.

 

In the 11th hour....

So now I am going to look at this one first. If I can get the price down, and it seems pretty solid, sweet. If not, will move on to the 70.

https://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/5532132424.html

 

Dat diamond stitch blue velour interior. So 70's street machine. Completely tacky but I have to be honest they are cool in in a "you don't really see that anymore" kind of way.

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