zeitgeist57 Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 I have an '04 Cavalier LS Sport 4dr I bought from a neighbor in UA and drove down to FL to stay at our condo. It's only got 110k Miles and runs great. While visiting in April, a rear hard brake line burst and leaked, but slowly. I drove it to a shop where they repaired it for $100. Unfortunately, he said all the brake lines are very rusty, and to replace everything would be about $500. Is there any good website that offers either pre-bent brakes for a Cavalier, or at least all the hard lines and I can bend them myself? Or from experience, is it better to just have a shop do it for that price? Obviously, I hate to spend that much money on something I should've done myself when I had the car in OH. However, my tools down here are limited. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cstmg8 Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 You should probably just fly me down to Florida to repair it. It'll save you at least $10. As far as hard lines to bend yourself, it's not difficult, and available at any AutoZone etc. GM would be the only source for prebent I'd imagine. PS. Don't forget you'll have to flare them as well. Maybe check for a small business shop that may be cheaper?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEVE-O Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 For ease a shop would be best to fix it. You need a lot of line. Twisted and bends to the master and calipers. Flare set of tools, and fittings. Also all doing this while laying on your back under the car as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted July 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 I got an even more redneck idea.... In a city where I don't ever go over 60mph, can I just cut the rear drum brakes off and crimp the hard line? Drive it with use of only the front disc brakes? It's a beach car...just covering all the options Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 I got an even more redneck idea.... In a city where I don't ever go over 60mph, can I just cut the rear drum brakes off and crimp the hard line? Drive it with use of only the front disc brakes? It's a beach car...just covering all the options I really hope you are trolling Clay. No, you cant cut and crimp it. Making the lines isn't that hard, most who say it is have never run lines before. Get a good flare tool and go to town. Practice makes perfect and de-burr the cut to help create a perfect flare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted July 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 I've done brake lines on the Lincoln and my old trucks, as well as cars in my college days for myself and my friends. Thanks for the points, guys. As much as I appreciate doing things myself, I'm just not going to come down to FL to lie on my back and redo brake lines. If it was a kit...then I'd definitely get some flare wrenches and go to town, let the shop bleed the brakes. As such, I'll have the shop do it all. Will wait until Monday, as I'll be back in OH and let my wife deal with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdk 4219 Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 Call the dealer, I just went through this on an 04 Silverado that I was going to bend lines for. The dealer was the last place I thought to call, and the complete pre bent kit was $93. The box it came in was worth more than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Automotive Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Get carbon fiber lines. No joke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grudes Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 They dont offer one for a cavalier. Just go to NAPA and get flexable brake line. Its easy to bend by hand, you will just have to flare the lines if you can save the fittings from your old lines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cstmg8 Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 They dont offer one for a cavalier. Just go to NAPA and get flexable brake line. Its easy to bend by hand, you will just have to flare the lines if you can save the fittings from your old lines I wondered about this, good to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted July 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 They dont offer one for a cavalier. Just go to NAPA and get flexable brake line. Its easy to bend by hand, you will just have to flare the lines if you can save the fittings from your old lines I called Maxton just to double-check...yep, they definitely don't have it. Do you know what the line/flare-nut size is for a Cavalier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grudes Posted July 27, 2016 Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 The line size is 3/16". The nut on the ABS module is M11X1.5X17.8 and at the brake hose is 10X1.0X10.1. Try and save the original nuts and you wont have to worry about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted July 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 I'm assuming that the 1999 Cavalier sedan brake lines won't work for an '04. This is a weird year. I called "SS Tubes" (they're out of Wadsworth, oddly enough) and they said the "body changed" for Cavaliers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gergwheel1647545492 Posted July 27, 2016 Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 go to napa and get the brake lines called NiCopp, its Nickel and Copper and it is bendable by hand really easy, i just replaced all the lines on my truck, while its still a pain in the ass, its so much easier to do it by hand. its like $45 for 20' coil of it, best price i could find anywhere. Just make sure you get the right flare nuts and go to town. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted July 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 I'm assuming you need to cut and flare the line as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted July 27, 2016 Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 I'm assuming you need to cut and flare the line as well? Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coltboostin Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 I got an even more redneck idea.... In a city where I don't ever go over 60mph, can I just cut the rear drum brakes off and crimp the hard line? Drive it with use of only the front disc brakes? It's a beach car...just covering all the options People will tell you no, but I did exactly this to a DD I had when I was 19. Mazda 323. I pinched and welded shut the line where it left the master in the engine bay. If you just pinch it, it will still leak. just slower Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdk 4219 Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 It's always a good idea to simplify the mechanical workings of a machine, especially the non important ones like brakes. While you're at it, there is no need for all of those lug nuts, they just will add weight, and are quite unnecessary. Half of them will do the job very well, and think of the time you will save when a tire change is needed. Make sure if you are working on the tapered wheel bearings and steering components, that you don't install cotter pins on the castle nuts, again extra weight, and possibly less mpg with that weight. If you have a blown fuse, you can at least double the amperage (if not more) for the replacement fuse, it won't blow again ( this applies to home breakers as well!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grudes Posted July 29, 2016 Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 It's always a good idea to simplify the mechanical workings of a machine, especially the non important ones like brakes. While you're at it, there is no need for all of those lug nuts, they just will add weight, and are quite unnecessary. Half of them will do the job very well, and think of the time you will save when a tire change is needed. Make sure if you are working on the tapered wheel bearings and steering components, that you don't install cotter pins on the castle nuts, again extra weight, and possibly less mpg with that weight. If you have a blown fuse, you can at least double the amperage (if not more) for the replacement fuse, it won't blow again ( this applies to home breakers as well!) :funny: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeesammy Posted July 29, 2016 Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 These ideas are reasons I have been in strong favor of mandatory vehicle safety inspections annually for the last 5 or 6 years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted July 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 These ideas are reasons I have been in strong favor of mandatory vehicle safety inspections annually for the last 5 or 6 years #GRANT'SWITHHER http://i.imgur.com/1ZRDS6w.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Not Brian Posted July 29, 2016 Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 I did rear brake lines on my buddy's Cavalier because they were rusted to hell. It was fun. We cut it way too long so we bent it in a loop like a twisty straw over his axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted October 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 UPDATE: Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. I definitely made this out to be a lot more difficult than it ended up being. I got a double-flare tool, some brass brake line unions, 25' of nickel-copper 3/16"s line and assorted fittings for $80 through Amazon. Checked all of it in a bag on Southwest and, thankfully, was introduced to a friend of a friend who has a detail shop nearby with a lift. Met him Sunday at 10am, worked an easy 2.5hrs, and did both rear brake lines about mid-car all the way back while he detailed his own car. Easy time commitment. http://i.imgur.com/4cWPZkZl.jpg The lines from just before the rear wheel wells back were definitely rusted out, and easy to bend/break by hand. The flare tool required some strength to bubble flare the factory steel lines, but that nickel-copper line was cake. I made a couple of rookie McSteaks (flaring the tubing without putting a nut fitting on the tube first! Cut and re-flare:yuno:) but it was a relatively easy job....and now I have the brake line tool for future endeavors! Oh, and not to knock the shop but the brake line that they fixed was a 7" piece that went from the flexible rubber line to the rear wheel cylinder - for $190!!! To be able to do $600 in brake line repairs on an $800 car was a very satisfying experience. Thank you for the help, CR! :thumbup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cstmg8 Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Way to man up Clay! 😎 Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99StockGT Posted October 14, 2016 Report Share Posted October 14, 2016 Well done sir! Look at all that rugged manliness! Did you even get some grease on your skin to complete the image? More importantly... what is this silver thing I see in the background of your photo.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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