PsychoticGaming Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 I'm building a 40x80 pole barn, it's up and I'm trying to decide on heating options before I pour the floor. Radiant in floor heat sounds great but is it? Better than forced air? Thoughts on a used oil burner? The shop will be insulated, I used house wrap before the metal. Thoughts from those who have a larger shop and heat it? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benner Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 The shop I work in uses radiant tube heaters we have two centrally mounted running most of the length of the shop. During the winter even with doors constantly being opened its not hard to get the shop into the high 50'school low 60's . On slower days we constantly have to turn at least 1 of them off because it gets too warm. Company policy says the thermostat stays at 65 degrees so the heaters are either on or off. Oh and the shop maybe 100x50 and the heaters are approx 50' each Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocky31186 Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 Did you build yourself? Where did you get the kit from? I am in the process of finding a 32x48x12 and will be using a wood burner. Downside of oil is you won't always have drums of used oil around. I prefer wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PsychoticGaming Posted July 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 Thanks for input! Haven't considered tube heaters yet, would be a good option except where Im planning for a lift. A friend of mine and myself have built it (a bit more help on the trusses), got it from local amish places (Yoder Lumber in Bellville, OH and Pinelane Metal in Butler, OH), best prices I found. I considered a wood burner but I was hoping for something I didn't have to watch so much and keep going (also have no access to wood, so buying logs would be the only option). Good point on used oil (granted I go through some myself along with other peoples vehicles I work on) still would come up short. Anyone have radiant in floor? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PsychoticGaming Posted July 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160730/3a1aa5955495441bf6c5e626d7b29714.jpg Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEVE-O Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 Oil heaters are a issue as well if you don't use your own oil like if you get it donated from a shop or something because if it gets mixed with coolant or anything will destroy your heater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duff1647545513 Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 In floor heat is so nice, but pricey. I won't hesitate to put it in a pole barn of my own one day. I've been in massive barns after we did the in floor and on a super cold day, they stayed evenly warm everywhere. It's a nice, warm feeling heat. Benefit to forced air though would be if you ever wanted to add an A/C, it would be much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sledhead36 Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 I price the mall and radiant heat floors are the absolute best way to go. Forced air blows air all over the place and makes everything dusty, they are pretty efficient, but all the hot air ends up on the ceiling. Try to work underneath the car, and you'll be cold all the time. Radiant tubes are very efficient certainly heat well, don't blow air all over the place but the majority of the heat is on the ceiling. Radiant heat is a little more costly upfront but very very efficient and cost very little to run. They do not blow hot air all over the place and the heat is down on the floor where you need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin5s Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 make sure to insulate the building.... what I got which works really well is http://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/fireplaces-stoves/add-on-furnaces/daka-add-on-wood-burning-furnace-4-000-sq-ft/p-1444428166666-c-12809.htm?tid=7540920512528487095 It's a wood / Coal burner with forced air... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdk 4219 Posted July 31, 2016 Report Share Posted July 31, 2016 . Keeping the floor warm is the key to being comfortable, foam insulated concrete is really important, and I would highly suggest spending the money on insulating the concrete before pouring. When my shop floor gets cold, I get really cold, even if the air temperature is warm. I have hanging heaters, , but as said above, they are cheaper to install initially, but with a tall roof, most of the heat is 20' up , and is hard to get down. I would also suggest possibly not heating the whole area, but maybe just the area you actually work in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PsychoticGaming Posted July 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2016 Thanks for all the input guys! Sounds like I'll be looking more into in floor heat for the shop, still up in the air a bit but in floor being costly but overall more comfortable sounds like a really good way to go, especially when Im laying under a vehicle on the concrete..... Are there any good places for under concrete foam? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sledhead36 Posted July 31, 2016 Report Share Posted July 31, 2016 . Keeping the floor warm is the key to being comfortable, foam insulated concrete is really important, and I would highly suggest spending the money on insulating the concrete before pouring. When my shop floor gets cold, I get really cold, even if the air temperature is warm. I have hanging heaters, , but as said above, they are cheaper to install initially, but with a tall roof, most of the heat is 20' up , and is hard to get down. I would also suggest possibly not heating the whole area, but maybe just the area you actually work in. These are great points. I actually have eight different zones with valves that I can direct the heat too. I generally just heat the entire thing to 55° and it is more than comfortable. But you could definitely turn some of the zones off and heat just a portion of it easily. Certainly would save on your energy costs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Automotive Posted August 4, 2016 Report Share Posted August 4, 2016 Get a radiant tube heater. Its your best bet. The difference between them and forced air, is they heat objects. My shops drops down to 50 at night when I turn them down. I can also get my shop in the mid 60's in 20 minutes. Once vehicles are warm the heat will maintain itself in the shop by radiating back off all metal surfaces. I work in the 60's in the winter, but if I need it warmer, it will bake me out by turning it up. If you can afford it put a wood burner outside, and pipe the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spankis Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 Floor heat is overkill for most non-commercial buildings, and a maintenance / failure risk without a very very good concrete pour. If you have gas service i'd suggest gas infrared radiants. As was said it heats the building and it's contents and works very well for large spaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PsychoticGaming Posted August 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 It might be overkill but sounds like my best option right now. No access to a gas line so propane would kill me. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spankis Posted August 9, 2016 Report Share Posted August 9, 2016 It might be overkill but sounds like my best option right now. No access to a gas line so propane would kill me. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Question then with respect to floor heat.... Without gas what heating source are you planning to use for water heating? Electric? THAT will kill you. It's all BTUs man, whether to heat water or to supply an infrared source. Thermal efficiency will determine utility cost impact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sledhead36 Posted August 9, 2016 Report Share Posted August 9, 2016 My in floor radiant heat is not that expensive with propane. I keep it at 55° and it is plenty warm without a jacket, since the heat is down at the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PsychoticGaming Posted August 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2016 (edited) Question then with respect to floor heat.... Without gas what heating source are you planning to use for water heating? Electric? THAT will kill you. It's all BTUs man, whether to heat water or to supply an infrared source. Thermal efficiency will determine utility cost impact. Electric... Solar panels... Already have them... Its all BTU's true but if you fire up the floor heat before it gets cold you don't have to rise 20, 30, 40 degrees ect. Constant temp is much easier to maintain. I'm still open for suggestions Sledhead, mind me asking how much propane you go through un a winter? And how big your shop is? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Edited August 9, 2016 by PsychoticGaming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duff1647545513 Posted September 15, 2016 Report Share Posted September 15, 2016 Happened to come across a used LP gas, 75,000btu 40' tube heater in pretty good shape I could cut you a good deal on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koolrayz Posted September 16, 2016 Report Share Posted September 16, 2016 I put one of these Cambridge SA250 in a 55X110 building and it kicks ass. I like it a lot better than the other building that is 30X80 and has radiant tube the entire length. Radiant tube are a lot hotter directly off of the burner than at the end of the run. This makes for uneven heating. The bigger building is filled with 12' pallet racks and the forced air is very even. I was very skeptical that this would work well in this application. https://www.cambridge-eng.com/products/sa-series-energy-efficient-heater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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