Jump to content

Eurovan - new alternator, not charging?


zeitgeist57

Recommended Posts

Buddy gave me his 2002 VW Eurovan Westfalia to swap out the alternator and P/S pump that are making gawdawful noises when running.

 

I got a new alternator from RockAuto - Remy 12117 - and swapped out alternators. The VW/Audi one was 120amp, and so was this one. When I start up the van, the "battery" light in the instrument panel goes on and from the lights it doesn't seem to be charging.

 

Not having a working multimeter, I couldn't check the battery for voltage to confirm the alternator. SOOooo...I swapped in the old VW/Audi alternator: dash light goes away, bright DRL's and interior lights. looks like it's charging.

 

- Does NAPA test alternators and starter motors? I'm sorry, but even after dropping off oil at Advance Auto on Bethel yesterday (not even buying anything), I am really just trying to avoid discount autoparts stores as much as possible from now on.

- Any thoughts as to why the new alternator isn't triggering/exciting like the old, worn out factory alternator?

 

If the "new" alternator is the culprit, I'll tell my bud to return the RockAuto one and get another...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why didn't you borrow my multimeter? It's one of the few tools I actually have here and use all the time.

 

Couple of things:

 

1) the eurovan has a 120 amp alternator and an optional 150 amp alternator. Are you sure this one had a 120amp alternator? Because if it had the optional 150 amp and you replaced it with a 120 it might throw an error code or a battery idiot light.

 

2) Are the connectors exactly the same or just "similar"? Sometimes similar connectors have different tolerances and the new alternator might have a looser fit which is causing some intermittent interruption in the current.

 

3) did you try a battery disconnect and reset of the computer after replacing the alternator?

 

4) are the pulleys the exact same size? different size pulleys may cause the new alternator to spin slower or faster than required, either causing an overcharging or under charging situation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remans are faulty 30% of the time in my experience. I would look there assuming the alternators are the same as far as connectors, pulley, amps, etc.

 

+1. total absolute shit, if you HAVE to have it working get a new one. If you don't mind fucking around, doing the job 3x and saving some money- reman

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any Advance/AutoZone/Napa/O'really should have a bench tester for Starters and Alternators, only possible snag could be do they have the pigtail that plugs into your socket type. Not all shops have all connectors, and many have disappeared or been broken over the years.

 

Have you bought a multi-meter yet? ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is (supposedly) totally new alternator. I did notice the back of the rectifier has a crack in the plastic housing and a little rectangular cap covering a couple of small terminals is exposed...wondering if this was damaged in shipping, or my buddy dropped it.

 

No multimeter yet. Will check it out with an auto parts store tonight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup. NAPA confirmed it was bad out the box. Bosch rectifier. I noticed a crack in the rectifier so maybe was damaged in shipping.

 

Owner is going to return it for a refund. We'll do the alternator again (P/S pump is the one making all the racket) when it finally gives up the ghost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...