iwashmycar Posted April 7, 2017 Report Share Posted April 7, 2017 I kind of like how the blue seat trim matches the valve covers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted April 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2017 (edited) Long weekend of wedding stuff, but still managed to get stuff done. First a look at the parts room, Only an old exhaust and empty gauge boxes left because everything is now more or less on the car, minus the front bumper cover and passenger fender well (to check for fuel leaks after driving) Engine bay "complete" Off with the training wheels! Been about 6 months since she was on the ground on her own. Road Test: Video: (FYI, speedo is not calibrated, apparently 15-20mph is now 60mph haha) And after road test! Turned out to be a bit of power steering fluid leaking from the hydroboost due to an OEM spring clamp around a not as snug as I would like powersteering drain hose. So I will get a worm gear clamp on there to better tighten it down. Hopefully will get more driving in this week around town and get it out on the highway. So far everything is going very well. Goal is to make UFO autocross for a proper shakedown on 4/23. Edited April 10, 2017 by Toph6888 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted April 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2017 Fixed the leak on the hydrboost, turns out it was the teflon seal on the high pressure out to the steering rack that let go. Pulled it off, cleaned, lots of teflon tape, and tightened up it held like a charm. Drove it around the block and got the speedo calibrated, then managed to just make it back into the garage before running out of gas. Only put about 2.5-3 gallons in it and have had it running off and on for the past 2-3 weeks, so not bad and was expected. No I can calibrate the fuel level gauge and hopefully start getting it out of the development and onto the road. Was getting one check engine light, P0116, which is for the coolant temp sensor. Essentially when ford made the control pack, they didn't add any dwell time into the coolant sensor start up temp so that it tracks coolant temp vs amount of time since last start up. So it sends the code when I turn it off hot and then try to turn it back on again bc it sees the coolant temp is higher than the intake air temp and freaks out. I just have to ship my ecu to Ford and then they send it back to me with a new flash to take care of this. Still, its downtime in the car though. I will probably send it out after the wedding and hopefully get it back when I get back from the honeymoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted April 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2017 Last week we managed to get the rest of the car together. Got the bumper on, an additional ground ran from the negative terminal on the battery in the trunk to the engine block to help with hot starting issues. Seems to be a thing of the past now so thats good. The only real pain in getting the front end together was the fender well liner, bc of all the wiring/fuel hoses its a bit snug, but we got it all to fit. Car was a bit low too, so we raised it up about 0.5" just to make sure there was no rubbing and gain a bit of clearance for the low oil pan haha. Now it just DESPERATLEY needs a bath. During the week I got my buddies garage cleaned out (been about 5-6 months since that table has been cleared off) And made the short drive home, maybe 8-10 miles Took it out last night and everything is working well, so decided to bring it into work today. Hopefully get a lot more miles on it over the next couple weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted April 19, 2017 Report Share Posted April 19, 2017 Awesome, man! How does it drive and ride??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted April 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2017 So far its running really great. I haven't really gotten on it yet, only about 70 miles on teh engine now. Transmission is really good and nice and quiet. Engine runs well, only small issue I have is tip in it kinda hunts for AFR for about 0.5s, so I have to probably adjust the fuel pressure regulator or vacuum source. Other than that it drives really well. Ohh, and its loud. Not crazy loud on the highway or anything to where you can't talk/hear music, just its presence is known. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dammit Charlie Posted April 19, 2017 Report Share Posted April 19, 2017 Ohh, and its loud. Not crazy loud on the highway or anything to where you can't talk/hear music, just its presence is known. That's called two more cylinders and no turbo to quite them down. You could always quite it down again with another turbo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Versluis Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 This is awesome. Great work Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted April 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 That's called two more cylinders and no turbo to quite them down. You could always quite it down again with another turbo... I've already been looking at "mufflers" (Turbos) but decided I need to hold off for at least a bit. Honestly if anything the Ford/Roush supercharger would probably be the way I would go, just so much easier to set up with this thing taking up the whole engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted April 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2017 Over the weekend I fixed up an annoying but not overly difficult issue. My starter always had trouble firing up after the engine was warm/car ran for more than 5 mins and eventually we came to the solution of running a new dedicated feed from the battery in the trunk to the starter. Ultimately, the original starter wire I was using was 4 gauge, but from the battery it went to a junction box (~15ft) then to a fuse box (another ~8ft) then from the fuse box to the starter (~2ft). We decided that was asking a lot out of 4 gauge wire. I bought some 2 gauge wire (bc I don't want this problem anymore) and ran a dedicated line from the battery up the starter, ~12ft total. So we cut out about half the length and bumped up from 4gauge to 2 gauge. Starts like a champ now when its already hot. Also got an engine cover from Stretch, much appreciated. Spent sunday night test fitting and clearancing to get it to fit, the issue being my strut tower brace. originally was gonna try to fit over the strut brace, but I would have to cut out too much. Decided best thing was to go under, for minimum cutting and to make sure I would be able to close the hood. I'm really happy with how it came out. Drove it into work this morning, drives great. Starting to get on it a bit more here and there and its really working well and pulls great. Only have had it up to about 4-4.5k so far. Gonna get some more break in miles, check the oil filter, then finally take it out for some runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted May 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Took the car to Brian today to get it tuned. While he set up the base tune with HP tuners I put on the JLT cold air intake. We adjusted the radiator fan on/off temp too so that the fan isn't always on (thermostat is a 195*F, but the fan would turn on and stay on after 180*F). Once he had the tune set up we got it on the dyno. It spun the wheels a lot since the tires were a bit cold. After some salt bags and whatnot in the back we got the final numbers: 416hp, 375ftlbs at the wheels. Its really loud in that room haha. Bad photo of dyno graph: Made power all the way to 7k rpms, so I was pretty happy with that. Will get the first break in at BMC next weekend, then gingerman track day for memorial day weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeitgeist57 Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Congratulations on getting this project completed! AND FOR CLEANING THOSE DAMN WHEELS! Great power, and the car sounds wicked! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted May 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Congratulations on getting this project completed! AND FOR CLEANING THOSE DAMN WHEELS! Great power, and the car sounds wicked! I had a lot of complaints on how dirty those wheels were haha. Damn brake dust! that was after only 1 track day lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigbird Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 That's pretty awesome. Good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboRust Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Final build $$$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Congratulations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC K9 Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Final build $$$ The real question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stretch Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Very nice! Solid numbers too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted May 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Thanks for all the comments. Price is a good question! I stopped adding up all the little things bc it was just depressing and it felt like I was going to jegs every other day to tidy things up. The base costs below: Engine: $6500 Control Pack $1500 T56 Trans/Shifter $1700 Clutch/Flywheel $500 Long Tubes $525 X Pipe $225 Catback $450 T56 Driveshaft $200 PS Pump/Lines $300 AC Compressor/Lines/Condenser $450 Accessory Adapter Brackets $850 JLT Intake $150 Gauges: $1000 Fuel System: $700 (-8 feed, -6 return, regulator, fuel pump, fuel filter, fittings) Wiring $125 (connectors, tape, grounds, starter wire, odds and ends) Swap Parts: $450 (oil filter relocation, accelerator pedal bracket, radiator hoses/adapters, coolant overflow bottle) Odds and Ends $300-500 (all the little hoses/fittings/clamps and whatnot I can't remember) Tune: $550 So that total brings it to around $15k. Not a cheap project by any means, but I also bought everything new (ac, powersteering, etc that racked up about $1000) that most would already have, as well as going all new gauges instead of keeping the stock ones ($1000), as well as getting a brand new engine from Ford instead of getting a used one (typically $4k or so for a used mustang engine if you search long enough, cheaper if you go F150 motor), plus things that I was fixing as I was going through it. So I still think you can do the swap for around $10k if you wanted to. The parts I sold are: Engine $2300 Turbo Kit $3300 Trans $1000 Tuning software $350 T5 Driveshaft $250 Other Wheels/tires $400 Profit from truck engine $400 Old Fuel System $250 Old Shifter $125 Old Climbing gear $800 Which totals to about $9200 of the cost, so I am pretty much in it for $6k, which is about what I spent getting to the better parts / new accessories and whatnot. This is the ultimate benefit though, comparison between what my v6 turbo made on the dyno last spring at dyno tune motorsports compared to the coyote the other day (both had 3.90 rear gears, same wheels/tires, both run in 1:1 transmission gears, both with aluminum driveshafts). The v6 keeps up right at about 3500-3700rpms, but the coyote walks away from it below and above that rpm. For the money I'll take all the extra power, TiVCT 4V vs pushrod 2V, having knock sensors, ability to work on the engine easier, and less heat in the engine bay as well as mostly ford ECU tuning with the tweaking by Brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted May 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 Was able to weigh the car at work today. With a 3/4 tank of gas it weighed 3370lbs, which puts it right at 245whp/ton. Not too bad, especially when you consider that after drivetrain loss the engine is close to 490-500hp. (Assuming 15-17% drivetrain loss) Oem the car weighed 3070lbs with 190hp, so 300lbs for IRS, roll bar, coyote engine, and being up 300hp isn't too bad of a trade off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 For some perspective, my s550 GT with just lighter wheels weighed in at 3,670lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted May 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2017 Spent my early afternoon over on the alignment rack setting up the car. Got the ride height sorted and even, took out the camber bolts I had in the front when I had 275's up front. I used the camber bolts to add positive camber to space the tires from the coilovers, then took it back out up top. Now that I run 255's in front I got rid of them for the OEM replacement bolts. After misc stuff was done, got on to actual adjusting the car. Overall pretty happy with it and should hopefully be better than last year. Last year: Front Camber -2* Front Caster 5.8-6* Front Toe 1/16" toe out Rear Camber -0.8* (Mad IRS Yo!) Rear Toe 1/16" toe in This Year: This year I'm mainly just adding camber to the front and rear, as well as a touch of caster. Once I get my jig made up I will double check the bumpsteer, hence why I didn't make a big change right now. I can probably get up to 10* caster if I really wanted to with my caster camber plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted May 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 Got some new rims for the car so that I can put my Gforce R1S on the current cobra wheels. These are 10th anniversary cobra rims, 17x9 in front and 17x10 in the back for future plans. Also made it to BMC this weekend for its first autox. The power delivery is way better and you can really rotate the car around easier with the throttle compared to the turbo 6. The really noticeable improvement though was with the braking. The car can actually engine brake now with its 5.0L of 11:1 compression on 8 vs the 3.8L of 9:1 compression on 6. So I'm hoping with the tire upgrade for the next event to at least start getting towards some competitive times. Drive mod required though. 'Murica Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 Congrats and looks good. I got scared away by the forecast for BMC, did it end up raining? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toph6888 Posted May 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 Congrats and looks good. I got scared away by the forecast for BMC, did it end up raining? We only had ~28-30 cars. It was sprinkling a bit in the am but stopped around 10 or 1030. First run group (Me) had a wet track but it was pretty fun to slide around on. By the second run group the track was pretty much dry. We ran both run groups twice for a total of 11 runs, and were packed up and out by 330 or 4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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