spankis Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Wife's car is a 2007 Cobalt SS with the NA 2.4. She just paid it off and we are putting some money into it to keep it going a while I've replaced struts, tie rod ends, sway bar links, etc..... All went fine. The lower control arm bushings are shot (common problem), but where I'm stuck is that I CANNOT get the rear control arm bolt out (sorta common problem). It is the bolt that goes vertically through the bushing and has a "cage nut" that is up in a pocket of the subframe which is basically inaccessible. PB blasted, impacted, nothing works, it just seems to be spinning. For what it's worth the SS cars have a cast aluminum control arm rather than steel, but the hardware and bushing is otherwise the same. Any GM guys on here familiar with this and able to help? The car is drivable as is because it's still together, but I've abused the hardware at this point and don't want the wife driving it to work until I resolve this. I've spoken with the dealer and they're only willing to do anything as a "job" meaning I buy the control arms from them and they replace the entire component - which I already have and bought as a factory "kit" with everything else - so not returnable now. They are unwilling to replace the bolt and cage nut assembly (which would let me bring it home and replace them myself), claiming they can't reasonably estimate/charge labor that way. Any suggestions or opinions? I'm trying to avoid eating the cost of control arms I already bought + pay dealer labor rates + dealer part mark-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboRust Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 I've had this happen on other Fwd platforms and you cut a squared off "U" in the frame, a "trap door" to access the nut remove replace and bend the metal back as close as possible then spray with rustled then rubberized under body coating... sometimes this means in the frame under the car sometimes under the floor board inside the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboRust Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Unless I read that wrong are you saying the nut isn't completely hidden and you can drop the subframe to get to it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geeto67 Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 In my jeep it is a common problem for captured nuts to start spinning from age or the weld breaking loose, or just piss poor engineering. Often the backside of the nut is up against something like the floor board so I just hole saw it and then when done I put the rubber plug in and bam done. This way I don't have to deal with a captured nut later on. here is the u-shaped square hole derek mentioned (for a jeep): http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v63/sebastian22/Body%20lift%20install/IMG_9238.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spankis Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Unless I read that wrong are you saying the nut isn't completely hidden and you can drop the subframe to get to it? I think you are reading me right, Derek. Other guys online have apparently let the subframe "dangle" from the motor mounts to help get access, but from what I see I don't know how it would help as the SS cast arms have less clearance at the bushing. I will likely spend some more time on it Saturday, and probably call around a few other places. I'd like to avoid cutting the subframe but maybe I'm being a Nancy here. It's is just a cobalt lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spankis Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 (edited) Also, Geeto, the picture helps some thank you. In my mind I think the butchery would be in the subframe itself rather than the floor. I've heard of neon guys doing the floor access hole for stuff too though. I feel like there may not be enough material at this location to be okay after cutting. More research is required I guess. Edited March 10, 2017 by spankis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboRust Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 If you had a welder or access to one you could weld it back closed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B3NN3TT Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Front subframe bolts always spin on the Cougar/Contour CDW-27's. The procedure is always to just pull up the carpet and go through the floor. Luckily there is an indentation there to show you exactly where the access point is. I would think that GM would do the same thing if there were a possibility of this happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwashmycar Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Any way to get to it even a little? Like to jam a screwdriver tight to the side of the nut to maybe give you a chance? ....possible to drill a hole? I wonder if you could get a drill in there....to the side of the nut...drill into it a little, then jam a screwdriver into it to stop spinning and impact the bolt out. Sounds like a bitch either way. Also if the drill does fit, if you get the hole in the nut big enough it will crack the nut and the bolt might come out...I had to do that for shocks before on seized top nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spankis Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 All good suggestions. I attempted to jam a flat blade in the tiny opening there is, but never could find the "captive nut" or whatever to get it to hold. Have not drilled a hole yet or pulled up carpet. In other news dealer wants $700, Firestone wants almost $600, both buying their control arms. I could maybe sell thr new aftermarket set I have for $150. Great stuff lol. Neither will let me pay them just get the bolt out and replace with new :fuuuu:. Depending on wife's work schedule next week Firestone may get my money. Such is life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbs3000 Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 May want to find out what they plan to do about it as I assume they will just cut it out as well. Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aussiek2000 Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 We'd just cut an access hole, remove old nut and bolt, weld new nut, weld hole closed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spankis Posted March 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 Firestone got it out, embarrassingly easily in fact. Guy who did it used a torch and REALLY heat it up. He actually owned a cobalt himself, and was familiar with the process/ pain. Once hot, he was able to get it loose with just a big screwdriver wedged into the pocket area as he loosened. Worked out ok I guess as wife has lifetime alignment through Firestone, so they knocked that out also. That said, anybody with a cobalt need control arms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwashmycar Posted March 13, 2017 Report Share Posted March 13, 2017 Nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99StockGT Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 Good to see you got it resolved, those bolts can be a major PITA! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffrey Posted March 27, 2017 Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 That said, anybody with a cobalt need control arms? If I am not mistaken, these are the FE5 control arms? I think they work on the HHR SS as well. I may be interested, got a part number on them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spankis Posted March 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2017 If I am not mistaken, these are the FE5 control arms? I think they work on the HHR SS as well. I may be interested, got a part number on them? My wife's 2007 has the "FE3" suspension as it is the non-boosted SS, but my understanding is that pre-2009 FE3 and FE5 optioned cars used the same cast aluminum control arm. Each used different sway bars, springs, and struts (though it's all interchangeable). After 2009 the FE5 arms are different at the knuckle and aren't a direct fit to previous model years. These that I have are aftermarket, but cross as GM part numbers 15787555 (right) and 15787556 (left). They are just taking up space, so let me know if you're interested. They are still in the plastic bags with foam and stuff, but I can take some pictures if you'd like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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