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Hot Rod just went 11.83 in a bone stock 2018 GT Stang


Geeto67

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The GT Performance Package includes:

• 19" X 9" (F) 19" X 9.5" ® Ebony Black-painted Aluminum

• 255/40R19 (F) 275/40R19 ® Summer Only Tires

• Brembo ™ Six-Piston Front Brake Calipers with Larger Rotors

• "Engine Spun" Aluminum Instrument Panel

• Gauge Pack (Oil Pressure and Vacuum)

• Heavy-duty Front Springs

• K-Brace

• Larger Radiator

• Performance Rear Wing (Fastback Only)

• Silver Painted Strut-Tower Brace

• Spoiler Delete (Convertible Only)

• TORSEN® Differential with 3.73 Axle Ratio (Manual)

• TORSEN® Differential with 3.55 Axle Ratio (Automatic)

• Unique Chassis Tuning

• Unique EPAS, ABS and Stability Control Tuning

• Upsized Rear Sway Bar

 

Some of this stuff is just farkle like the engine spun alloy panel, but I would like to think the K-brace, strut tower brace, Larger Radiator, summer tires, Heavier front springs, and the firmer bushings that fall under "unique chassis tuning" all contributed to the 11 second time.

 

Ford uses the Trak-Lok unit right? Jeep used to use trak-lok in the XJs, YJs, and ZJs, if they are remotely setup the same then it's not really a great LSD. Even the Auburn Posi in my GTO's 10 bolt was better. A Torsen is a geared mechanical LSD - it's hard to say whether you'd still run 11.8's without it.

 

Nope. I get that you like to talk, but you're simply not right here. The standard gt and gt pp will not show an appreciable difference in straight line speed...

 

I appreciate this comment, and represents my problem with such high sticker prices in the automotive industry: it's difficult for me to spend +$20k on a car when financing/present-value cost of funds (the cash I outlay to buy it) means I'm losing money while I have it.

 

Aaron's Mustang is a far more valuable vehicle in that it's both a DD and an effective race car, instead of many enthusiasts needing seperate machines for both.

 

I didn't fit in anything available used back then. I'd have prefer to buy my car used now, and saved the money, and gotten the premium Package, but big guy problems.

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Many scat pack owners would disagree with that statement, but I’m not here to argue. I loved my scat pack and I got it for a steal of a price. I picked it over a mustang and Camaro because that was my preference. I’m sure most brand loyal people can argue one point or another in the performance value category all day long but what’s the point? Every one is going to buy their preference and be happy about it.

 

A stock weight scat pack runs 11s on stock rubber? I wonder why the hell cats I've seen run are in the higher 11s on stock rubber then. Weird. I like the scat pack cars, but they aren't running 11s without some weight reduction and a tire.

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A stock weight scat pack runs 11s on stock rubber? I wonder why the hell cats I've seen run are in the higher 11s on stock rubber then. Weird. I like the scat pack cars, but they aren't running 11s without some weight reduction and a tire.

 

Skimming the forums and reading the claims, they are out there. I had hopes for mine to be deep in the 12’s but I sold it before ever making a pass. I don’t doubt it though. Many were skeptical that the early LS cars were into the 12’s bone stock yet they were. May not be the norm, but the possibility is there for sure.

 

Edit: you can get the scat with some pretty sticky stock tires too. FWIW.

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In your lease versus purchase comparison you are assuming they trade or sell after the 60 months of payments. The comparison is way different if you keep the car for 10+ Years. (I know not likely on a car forum). I almost have my Suburban paid off and while I am looking at pickups the attraction of 0 car payments is very strong.
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Skimming the forums and reading the claims, they are out there. I had hopes for mine to be deep in the 12’s but I sold it before ever making a pass. I don’t doubt it though. Many were skeptical that the early LS cars were into the 12’s bone stock yet they were. May not be the norm, but the possibility is there for sure.

 

Edit: you can get the scat with some pretty sticky stock tires too. FWIW.

 

You sold yours? Why? I thought you loved it?

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In your lease versus purchase comparison you are assuming they trade or sell after the 60 months of payments. The comparison is way different if you keep the car for 10+ Years. (I know not likely on a car forum). I almost have my Suburban paid off and while I am looking at pickups the attraction of 0 car payments is very strong.

 

Not sure who the above is directed at, but I think I covered the details in post #25. Agree that if you keep it 10+ years, etc. However, even then, calc. out what your total payments have been plus any money down, less the equity it's worth today and see what your monthly cost to own it has been. It will go down the longer you keep it but there will always be a cost associated with it.

 

Now in your case the car is super nice and clean and you bought it used in great condition so the best of all worlds was had. You did it right. Not to mention leasing huge SUV's today isn't exactly cheap. My guess is that truck would lease for about 700-800mo today.

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You sold yours? Why? I thought you loved it?

 

I did, changed jobs and they pay mileage. Traded it in on a car that gets 40mpg and I’m raking in the $ on it with 0 car payments now. Lots of life has happened in the last 6 months.

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Guys, it's a Mustang GT.....no one with half a clue is paying anywhere close to $50k for one. If you aren't getting it for invoice then you haven't bought enough cars, if you aren't getting one for BELOW invoice then you just aren't trying..lol

 

It's not even work if you're not good at negotiation. Spend $50 and join Mustang Club of America, get an X Plan pin, buy car.

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As a follow up I follow lease hacker's web site and rates and residuals for the following, if true, will make them a pretty stellar offer.

 

I'm out of the car business so I'd have to defer to others to confirm. Lease hacker was dead-on with my Q50 when I referenced it though.

 

Money factor and residual:

 

R/T Scat Pack - .00167 and 63%

392 Scat Pack Shaker - .00167 and 63%

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It's not even work if you're not good at negotiation. Spend $50 and join Mustang Club of America, get an X Plan pin, buy car.

 

X-Plan is typically $300-$500 over invoice. Costco, Truecar, USAA, and pretty much anybody who "partners" with ford gets the same deal (I get the same thing through my work's employee car buying program).

 

But you can say that about pretty much any car these days. I actually looked it up in my employee discounts website and I get about $1600 off a mustang, but I get $3000 off a challenger. I get about $2000 off a camaro.

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Nope. I get that you like to talk, but you're simply not right here. The standard gt and gt pp will not show an appreciable difference in straight line speed...

 

can you back up this statement? or is it just, like, you opinion man?

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can you back up this statement? or is it just, like, you opinion man?

 

Right now, I'm drawing from the 15-17s, and what little drag racing knowledge I possess.

 

Same engine

Same transmission

Same diff gear

 

You aren't going to be able to tell a difference in times, if anything the softer sprung non PP might have better rearward weight transfer.

 

Give it a month and it'll be easily verifiable on the 1/4 mile thread on the forums.

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Right now, I'm drawing from the 15-17s, and what little drag racing knowledge I possess.

 

Same engine

Same transmission

Same diff gear

 

You aren't going to be able to tell a difference in times, if anything the softer sprung non PP might have better rearward weight transfer.

 

Give it a month and it'll be easily verifiable on the 1/4 mile thread on the forums.

 

Except the 15-17 mustang was offered with a 6speed automatic, the 10 speed in the 2018 makes a difference.

 

yeah yeah I know...auto LOL. Except in drag racing automatics actually have an advantage.

 

Also tires make a huge difference. If the didn't there wouldn't be slicks or drag radials, or this current rivalry between big tire and small tire. I think without the PP the stock stang comes with PZero Nero All seasons (same on the hellcat) which are a different less sticky compound than the PZero Summer tires that the PP comes with.

 

It will be interesting to see though once the cars do start hitting the forums. I think an actual drag prepped PP probably has way more in it than 11.8.

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Except the 15-17 mustang was offered with a 6speed automatic, the 10 speed in the 2018 makes a difference.

 

yeah yeah I know...auto LOL. Except in drag racing automatics actually have an advantage.

 

Also tires make a huge difference. If the didn't there wouldn't be slicks or drag radials, or this current rivalry between big tire and small tire. I think without the PP the stock stang comes with PZero Nero All seasons (same on the hellcat) which are a different less sticky compound than the PZero Summer tires that the PP comes with.

 

It will be interesting to see though once the cars do start hitting the forums. I think an actual drag prepped PP probably has way more in it than 11.8.

 

I'm talking about same to same comparisons...

 

There will be no difference in performance when the cars have the same engine/trans/gear. No simpler way to say that. Some of the fastest on the 15-17 list are base all season cars, believe it or not.

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X-Plan is typically $300-$500 over invoice. Costco, Truecar, USAA, and pretty much anybody who "partners" with ford gets the same deal (I get the same thing through my work's employee car buying program).

 

But you can say that about pretty much any car these days. I actually looked it up in my employee discounts website and I get about $1600 off a mustang, but I get $3000 off a challenger. I get about $2000 off a camaro.

anyone with decent haggling skills can beat those pricing programs. I had “preferred pricing” through my previous employer and got the dealer to beat that pricing with my last three purchases.

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anyone with decent haggling skills can beat those pricing programs. I had “preferred pricing” through my previous employer and got the dealer to beat that pricing with my last three purchases.

 

My point was just if you didn't want to haggle at all you still don't have to pay anywhere close to sticker.

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  • 2 weeks later...
It's not even work if you're not good at negotiation. Spend $50 and join Mustang Club of America, get an X Plan pin, buy car.

 

I understand your point but you don't even have to do that. It costs you NOTHING to get it for invoice (which is LESS than X-plan). With a couple minutes of haggling, many dealers will sell them for invoice minus hold-back minus rebates.

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