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BMW Steering/Mechanic Recommendation


Zx2guy19

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Hey folks...my 2007 335i has developed a pretty gnarly steering wheel sound when turning the wheel either way. It started shortly after the turbos and get's worse (or so it appears) as the car warms up, which is totally random to me. It is specific to turning the wheel, so it's 100% suspension related- possibly axles or ball joints.

 

Any ideas? I don't mind bringing it somewhere, but initial inspections everything looks good. So, recommendations for somewhere to bring it? I don't think Dozer even has a shop anymore, does he?

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if it's a clunk coming from the steering rack area, it's normal for fast BMWs. Just means it's working.

 

Unless it's a loose or broken steering rack bolt. Or a worn component.

 

Just interior-steering noises, no idea unless it's a normal cold-weather high-pitched squeak

 

I've heard good things about Tom Hatem? but never used him personally https://www.hatemautomotive.com/

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if it's a clunk coming from the steering rack area, it's normal for fast BMWs. Just means it's working.

 

Unless it's a loose or broken steering rack bolt. Or a worn component.

 

Just interior-steering noises, no idea unless it's a normal cold-weather high-pitched squeak

 

I've heard good things about Tom Hatem? but never used him personally https://www.hatemautomotive.com/

 

This definite doesn't sound right. It's multiple pops when I turn the wheel. Thanks for the recommendation!

 

Have you ever replaced the lower control arms since you owned the car ?

 

Nope, I don't believe they've ever been done. How can I verify it's them? The last thing I want to do is start slinging parts at this monster.

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the control arms also have a fluid filled bushing that tends to burst between 80 and 100K miles and can affect the steering. When one went in my car it also pulled the car that direction under braking.

 

The car has 97k miles...is it weird that it's happening when I turn the wheel either way? It does pull when braking but just to one side.

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The car has 97k miles...is it weird that it's happening when I turn the wheel either way? It does pull when braking but just to one side.

 

Not weird. The fluid filled control arm bushing is the rear one, so as you move the wheel through it's cycle the arm is moving front to back. Under braking the car will pull to the side with the busted bushing because the wheel is physically moving back in the wheel well.

 

The way I found out my car had a busted one is I decided to jack the car up and remove the tire to take a look. I put the lug wrench on the nut and began to push down and the whole wheel moved back and forth in the wheel well. also there was fluid around the bushing that had sprayed on the wheel (I originally thought the fluid on the wheel was because I had driven through something).

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This definite doesn't sound right. It's multiple pops when I turn the wheel. Thanks for the recommendation!

 

 

 

Nope, I don't believe they've ever been done. How can I verify it's them? The last thing I want to do is start slinging parts at this monster.

 

Not slinging parts at an 11 year old 100 thousand mile BMW? Most of the suspension parts in a BMW have engineered in shock counters that disable the component shortly after 80 thousand miles. I would prepare yourself for clunks, noises, increased tire wear, and more trips to the repair shop. I strange suspension noises are sometimes hard to detect, that’s where the slinging comes in

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FWIW on mine just after 100k it was open season for maintenance suspension being up there as it was easy to tell when something was off,by the time your hearing stuff its getting pretty bad.

 

I started to diy myself bc shops were getting silly.

 

I remember doing the cooling system overhaul at 125k,window motors a time or two, the Vanos,blower motor in the middle of a heat wave that was fun....and a myriad of intake/gasket leaks,finally the tranny let go at 224k and I procured a used one and sold it soon after.

 

My advice to you is to save 3 to 4k a year from now on to pay a shop or D/L a shop manual and fix yourself it isn't so difficult.

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FWIW on mine just after 100k it was open season for maintenance suspension being up there as it was easy to tell when something was off,by the time your hearing stuff its getting pretty bad.

 

I started to diy myself bc shops were getting silly.

 

I remember doing the cooling system overhaul at 125k,window motors a time or two, the Vanos,blower motor in the middle of a heat wave that was fun....and a myriad of intake/gasket leaks,finally the tranny let go at 224k and I procured a used one and sold it soon after.

 

My advice to you is to save 3 to 4k a year from now on to pay a shop or D/L a shop manual and fix yourself it isn't so difficult.

 

Thanks for the advice. I've had the car around 4-5 months and have had the turbos done (I got a good deal on the car because they were bad) and just had the clutch/flywheel replaced because the power level is beyond what stock can hold (also planned).

 

The car will only be driven 2-3k miles a year, so I'm not overly concerned about making repairs.

 

Derek (turborust) is going to take care of this suspension issue for me. Not having a garage anymore sucks balls.

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  • 2 months later...

Since you were all at the edge of your seat waiting for what it is, Cruizin was the winner. Intermediate steering shaft.

 

$125 for a used one online (low miles, don't want to spend $325 on a new one) and Derek is putting it in in a few weeks.

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If that was fails at some point I can do a new one for $275 for ya.

 

Good to know, thanks man. ECS was the cheapest I found at factory price of $316 (everywhere was the same). So I figured $135 w/ shipping for one with almost half the miles was fine. Chances are I'm not keeping this car another 40k miles, so it was worth it to get used.

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