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The James Bay Expedition (my "arctic trip")


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Due to being both busy and lazy, I've gotten three CR threads behind in sharing my Rally North America adventures. The one that people have asked about the most is the arctic trip I took last June, so I'm making it first.

 

 

Why? Because it was there

It began almost as a whim. RNA co-founder Tony Intrieri had already been to the shore of the Arctic Ocean when Rally North America tackled the Dalton Highway to Deadhorse, Alaska, then on to the Prudhoe Bay. His family, especially daughter Morgan (a recent college grad) wanted to also share the bragging rights of driving to the shore of the Arctic Ocean. Unfortunately, from their home in central PA, Deadhorse would be an over 9000 miles journey, requiring more time than they could budget.

 

Tony, whose business is logistics, was then challenged to determine how close to the Arctic Circle could one of his vehicles be driven while staying in the eastern end of Canada. His solution was to tackle the James Bay Road in northern Quebec, then drive on the dirt/gravel trail that the Cree Indians use to reach the northern shore of James Bay where they ultimately take their long boats to fish and whale in the Hudson Bay waters.

 

The James Bay Road

Yep, it's a road. It was built in the 1970's for the transport of materials and workers who constructed the hydroelectric dam to the remote town of Radisson, Quebec. It stretches 388 miles and encounters NO towns along the way, although there is one fuel station on the route. There are no houses, no businesses, no cell phone signal. Tire repair services don't exist and tow trucks don't make the journey. If you break down, you're pretty much left to your own resources.

 

Tony was wise enough to not try the trip with just his family, so he posted in Rally North America media that he would welcome other rally vets to trek along. Initially, many thought it would be great fun ....... as the date approached, however, there were just two other teams willing to try. Yours truly, and rally veteran and mechanic Bart. Three vehicles went north .... two returned. But more about that later. :p

 

 

My ride

 

What vehicle would you take? It had to be dependable. Off road capable. Good enough gas mileage to make it to the next fuel stop. Comfortable enough to sleep in (if necessary). For me, it also needed to be something that I could purchase, use, and probably resell without taking too much of a hit.

 

Jordan to the rescue! :bangbang: Jet Auto Group hooked me up with a 2017 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk which ticked all the boxes for me. I got it at a great price in October, used it for the Ohio winter, made my arctic journey, and traded it back to him after I finished the trek. He was great to work with and gave me very fair prices both ways. The purchase thread is here: http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128059

 

The journey begins

 

We met up in Williamsport, Pennsylvania. Tony and daughter Morgan were just an hour from the starting point. They drove a 2017 F 150 XLT 4x4 with auxiliary fuel tank. Bart, and his son Bart (yep) had a 2018 Chevy Silverado LT Z71 4x4, carrying five gallon fuel cans. We were ready for adventure!

 

Getting from Williamsport, Pa to the south end of the James Bay Road would be a 780 mile trip, but could still be fun, depending on what stops we would choose. Our first was Watkins Glen, New York. Our party, from left, Bart, Bart, Tony, and Morgan.

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/group%20at%20Watkins_zpszivjftlp.jpg

 

We often think of Watkins Glen for its International Speedway, but it also is home of the first post-WWII Grand Prix on its streets and nearby roads.

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/finish%20marker_zpslsqlp0sy.jpg

We drove the original Grand Prix course, including the famous bridge

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/bridge%202_zpsdtzf1j47.jpg

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/bridge%201_zpsixdkx5ur.jpg

 

There is also a very interesting museum in Watkins Glen full of artifacts from the original Grand Prix and also the official repository of racing records from the race track as well. It was an interesting break from the long drive.

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/museum%201_zpsljlassy2.jpg

 

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/museum%203_zpsnrjhniln.jpg

 

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/museum%204_zpsf1s4kzpb.jpg

 

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/old%20museum%20sign_zpssrz0vmxg.jpg

Edited by Doc
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On our way north to Canada, Tony also knew of a good place to stretch our legs. I have forgotten the town, but there was a three mile trail which winds through the town along a river with picturesque views and waterfalls.

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/River%20walk%201_zps6pqr5yk5.jpg

 

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/river%20walk%202_zps076dhqjt.jpg

 

We got back on the road to Canada, made the border crossing without any drama, and made our first night's stop in Ottawa, the Canadian capital. We were prepared for some discomfort, perhaps even hardship at the northern end of our journey, and we deliberately compensated by staying at lavish accommodations for our last night in a large city. We stayed at the Fairmont Chateau Laurier.

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/Fairmont%20exterior_zpswkd7sys8.jpg

 

The Hotel was built by Charles Hays, a U.S. railroad magnate, and was finished in 1912. Hays and his party of friends and dignitaries who were to accompany him to the Hotel's grand opening all perished on the RMS Titanic on their way to the opening.

 

Many famous people have stayed in the Hotel, even lived there long-term. I stayed in the suite which had been occupied by R.B. Bennett from 1930-1935 while he was Canadian Prime Minister. It is really grand:

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/suite%201_zps9fdcsjl6.jpg

 

The above sitting room has views in three directions to the Canal and the central square

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/Ottawa%20view%201_zpslj0podx8.jpg

 

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/Ottawa%20view%202_zpsle07vbqn.jpg

 

and has a fine view of Bennett's "work," Parliament

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/view%202_zpssvva3p4p.jpg

 

The Hotel is full of lavash decor and historical objects. I could have spent a week wandering the halls.

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/lobby_zpsijzowfom.jpg

 

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/hotel%20hallway_zpspqnz78wj.jpg

 

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/hotel%20pediment_zpsjhsfp5sf.jpg

 

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/hallway%202_zpssq3i5a9t.jpg

 

We spent the evening doing a pub crawl through downtown Ottawa, enjoying the city street music and taking in the very international atmosphere of the city.

 

On our second day of driving due north to get to Matagami, the town at the south end of the James Bay Road, we crossed some beautiful countryside. The scenery transitions from the boreal forests (deciduous trees and conifers mixed, think northern Wisconsin) to the taiga, where the conifers begin getting increasingly short. Most of the James Bay region is flat, with few rolling hills, many lakes and bogs and with rocky outcroppings.

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/taiga_zpsfbbpv5pc.jpg

 

We came across huge tracts where forest fires had burned, and very unusual patches where only the top foot of the tree was alive, the rest dead but not burnt. I was puzzled by this and asked a local ranger, who explained that beavers were rampant in the area and they converted the poorly drained forests into bogs which in turn drowned the trees. The beavers are heavily trapped for pelts (mostly) and some relocation.

 

We stayed at the only area accommodation in Matagami, an unusual old motel. There was a single restaurant in the area and enough mosquitoes and blackflies to keep us from being outside except to run from the motel to the vehicles.

Edited by Doc
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Driving the James Bay Road

 

There is plenty of information online to dissuade anyone from making this journey without good reason. Just a sample: http://www.jamesbayroad.com/jbr/jbrdriving.html

 

Black bears, polar bears, moose, caribou herds, biting insects which can get into your car even with the windows up ..... the fun doesn't stop. And then there's the road itself. It's mostly paved, but gravel at spots. That doesn't sound too bad.

 

The humans you encounter in much of northern Quebec are not exactly helpful. Keep in mind that there is little to no tourism here and the locals either don't understand English or refuse to speak it. When paying for fuel, cash in my hand, the cashier refused to tell me the bill .... just kept repeating the amount in French. I finally put the cash on the counter and motioned for her to take the correct amount, which she grudging did. Same at restaurants: ordering was done by pointing at photos on the menu.

 

One week before we left, this photo was posted on the website. An overnight sink hole on the James Bay Road:

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/man%20in%20sinkhole_zpsumtdrbkh.jpg

 

These are everywhere, and it's hard to know just how deep a hole is, especially with water in it. Besides the potholes and sinkholes, the road itself undulates unexpectedly:

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/james%20bay%20road%20bumps_zpsfor4zkmx.jpg

 

Resulting in this:

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/truck%20on%20road_zps1n6nugyg.jpg

 

The road has its share of abandoned vehicles with broken axles. Sometimes road hazards are marked, but the signs blow down pretty easily. You tend to hit a few potholes which aren't so bad, and you are tempted to think nothing's going to stop you

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/speed%20up%20a%20bit_zpsrhsuoxo3.jpg

(fake pic, of course)

 

But then, you consider what you're going to do with a torn up tire or two, and you slow your roll. 385 miles gets to be pretty tedious at 25 mph.

 

Before driving on the Road, all drivers must stop and check in at a government station where the employee gives you fair warning and repeats to you that no one is going to come looking for you if you fail to return to the station at your expected time. Your vital stats are recorded in a log. There's no tourist pamphlet or advice. In the first 50 yards of the James Bay Road, you are greeted with this sign:

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/James%20Bay%20Road%20signs_zpsoszxfbug.jpg

 

There are some rare moments that make all the monotony worthwhile. Beautiful lakes line areas of the road:

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/lake%20by%20the%20road_zps3dbk33ut.jpg

 

And out of nowhere there's a bridge for the Rupert River

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/Rupert%20river%20bridge_zps13egxnek.jpg

 

And a short distance away, steps to view the falls and rapids

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/steps%20down%20to%20Rupert%20River_zps5hydg4s5.jpg

 

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/Rupert%20Falls_zpsnbatdobx.jpg

 

We ended up driving the road in one day. At the end of the road, there is really nothing. There's a small camp for the government workers at the dam. The dam itself appeared almost abandoned to us. We drove across it unimpeded. We saw no one there and there was a single car parked near it.

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/dam%201_zps8yjnbsdy.jpg

 

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/dam%20sleuce_zpsdvcqvioo.jpg

 

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/dam%20downstream_zpsczzn9or9.jpg

 

Once you leave the government land around the dam, you are on land belonging to the Cree Nation. Things change.

Edited by Doc
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The Cree are one of the largest of the First Nations of North America and are descended from Algonquins. Unlike their Quebec fellow citizens from the south, the Cree prefer to speak Cree or English. Virtually all of their grocery products are brought from Quebec and are labeled in French, which the Cree don't understand (1 percent speak French). Stop signs in Quebec, which I like for the way the 4-way stop is depicted:

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/french%20stop%20sign_zpszvgfo29d.jpg

 

Become this on Cree land:

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/Cree%20stop%20sign_zpsena71npn.jpg

 

The Cree people have many beefs with the Quebec government, not the least being that the Cree Nation capital at Fort George had to be evacuated because of the natural damage and flooding the new hydroelectric dam was forecast to cause.

 

Their capital was relocated to Chisasibi, where we would stay for our next night. It was another 30 miles or so from the end of the James Bay Road at Radisson. It was about the same as the road we'd been on: paved with gravel patches.

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/03_Chisasibi_-_welcome_sign_closeup_zps4d9cy2rz.jpg

 

The Quebec government constructed a number of large, substantial buildings for the Cree people: schools, hospital, police station, community center:

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/commercial%20center_zpstwwywwmr.jpg

 

But the people's homes are largely small shacks often with a teepee in the yard in addition to the home. There are no restaurants, two fuel stations, and a small grocery of sorts. Most of the business of the Cree is conducted in the community center, which reminded me of an indoor flea market. The Cree are notoriously shy and wary of outsiders, which we clearly were. And yet people such as us are such a rare sight that often someone, usually a young man, would approach us from a group asking what we were doing there. Remember, there's no tourism, and virtually no one outside their small community goes there. Once you break the ice with a local, you find them to be a friendly, warm and generous group of people.

 

Cree guides:

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/cree%20guides_zpsbx5o9ham.jpg

 

Although there are no restaurants in Chisasibi, there was a "social club" which allowed us to enter.

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/Social%20club%201_zpsekzqlqdx.jpg

They sold food (think pub snacks), which were pretty bad. There is no alcohol allowed anywhere on Cree land, so no bars exist for hundreds of miles.

 

Our hotel, the only one in town, was quite nice and also quite empty. I think there were only two guests there besides us.

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/waastooskuun-inn_zpsgimttfyw.jpg

 

My digs were pretty nice, pretty large, and had a great kitchen (needed due to the lack of restaurants, I guess).

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/Chis%20bedroom%201_zpswex5qlni.jpg

 

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/Chis%20bedroom%202_zpsd4c02ief.jpg

 

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/Chisasibi%20kitchen_zpsznwkugfy.jpg

 

The view out the back (remember, this is snow covered 10 months of the year)

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/hotel%20%20backyard_zpsug9sntx8.jpg

 

Oddly, the curtains, which ran floor to ceiling along a whole wall, were sheer with no drapes. We were there for the summer solstice, so it was only dark about two hours each night. Not so easy to sleep in a bright, sunny room.

 

It was cold at night (30's) and could be cold, wet and windy in the day but was generally in the 50's. Fortunately, it was still too cold for insects. Where we wanted to go (the end of the road) had been frozen solid a month before. But the next day we made the trek to our destination. It would be about 60 miles of gravel and mud paths to the place where the Cree put in their long boats. We asked a number of Crees if we needed their permission to go there, and they told us of course not.

 

The Jeep never needed its 4WD. Both trucks used theirs, and it was slow going. It seemed pretty strange when we got to the end of the road. Bleak is the word that comes to my mind.

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/end%20of%20the%20road%201_zpsmzh1g4ja.jpg

 

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/end%20of%20the%20road%202_zpsxhza8fe2.jpg

Edited by Doc
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The island you see in the distance is an unnamed island where the James Bay empties into Hudson Bay. The guides told us that they had been driving on this body of water in May.

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/end%20of%20the%20road%203_zps0rryfhp9.jpg

 

It seemed appropriate to dip the Renegade's rear wheels in the Arctic water

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/jeep%20in%20water_zpsb3ulffmr.jpg

 

This was the true end of the road in Quebec, the closest you can drive to the Arctic Circle there.

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/trail%20end_zpszc2dpgtu.jpg

 

Proudly displaying the Jet Auto Group logo, shirt, and license frame :)

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/Doc%20at%20Hudson%20Bay_zpsusdl2cjs.jpg

 

Morgan, who had wanted to swim in the Arctic Ocean, did just that

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/Morgan%20in%20water_zpswp2tbqmn.jpg

 

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/Morgan%20in%20water%202_zps71khfhyy.jpg

 

I had vowed to do the same, but after stepping in and splashing my face with the freezing water, I decided I didn't need to do that afterall.

 

After we had gotten plenty cold playing around in the water, we decided to head back down the trail to the hotel in Chisasibi. I think we all felt a bit let down that trail's end wasn't as dramatic or picturesque as our romanticized expectations. But we had accomplished what we set out to do and hadn't had any major mishaps ....... yet.

 

TUNDRADOME: Two trucks go in, one comes out.

 

Getting back to the hotel parking lot, Bart was pretty anxious to get under the hood of his truck because he had been smelling gasoline inside the cab. Sure enough, we could see gasoline running down the back of the motor. :fuuuu:

 

It looked like it was coming from a fuel rail, and despite Bart being an excellent auto mechanic and having the truck bed packed with tools, he didn't have what he needed to get down to the problem, and anyways, he wouldn't have had parts to fix the most likely problems.

 

What you have to know about Bart is that he's a good-hearted, generous guy from Georgia who you can always count on to help you out of a bind. But he's fiercely patriotic, and a Chevy man through and through. Cause 'merika.

 

Bart had paid 53k for his Silverado, and it looked to be worth every penny. I think it had only break-in miles on it when he started north from Georgia to join us in Pennsylvania. That's a big chunk of change, and Bart had every faith that he had one of the best vehicles on earth for this journey.

 

He phoned whatever GM Road Service number was in his owner's manual and got put through the typical menu of options and hold patterns, but finally got to a human he had trouble understanding. After numerous attempts at explaining his predicament, he asked the man where the call center was. India! Bart was becoming pretty hot, but after 90 minutes on a cell call, he was promised that a roll back would be dispatched to pick his truck up and transport it to the nearest GM dealer. Bart left instructions with the hotel desk clerk to wake him when the transport arrived. We went to bed thinking the situation was under control.

 

The next morning, no roll back in sight, Bart called GM again. After some transfers and confusions, he was notified that no roll back had been dispatched because we were too far from any dealer to get any services! The nearest dealer, it turns out, was Garage Tardiff Ltee in Amos, Quebec. It was 540 miles from our hotel. Apparently the contractors the dealership usually use would not drive up the James Bay Road, and other contractors said they could not dispatch a roll back because the drivers can only drive 8 hours at a stretch, and there was nowhere for the driver to sleep along the road. And yet, GM warned not to drive the vehicle and said that if Bart found some way to work on the vehicle himself, they would likely void his warranty.

 

Obviously feeling caught between a rock and a hard place, Bart phoned his dealer in Georgia and asked for their intervention in the mess. This phone frustration went on and on all day with no resolution. Tony, Morgan and I had obligations back home and could not stay in Chisasibi, yet we weren't about to leave our buddy stranded and without wheels on an Indian reservation with no restaurants, no repair shops, and no way to get home.

 

After some heartfelt discussion, we all agreed that Bart the elder would stay in Chisasibi at the hotel with his truck until it could be transported to Amos. We stocked him up with food and Canadian currency (that's the only thing used on the Cree Reservation -- no U.S. to Canadian conversion is available there) and departed for the U.S. the next morning. Bart the younger rode with Morgan and Tony in Tony's F150, and Tony dropped him off at an airport in PA where he caught a flight back to Georgia. I would return to Ohio in my Jeep.

 

The Silverado's fate

 

After the trip we learned that the dealer's service trailer didn't get to Chisasibi until Friday, four full days after his initial call to GM. Then, the vehicle didn't make it to the dealership until Sunday, and was repaired Monday, a week after the initial phone call. The problem was some sort of seal used in the fuel rail assembly.

 

Bart then drove alone from Amos, Quebec to Georgia and arrived a full week later than the rest of us returned home.

 

The remnants of the convoy drive home

 

Leaving Bart and the Silverado in Chisasibi, the F150 and the Jeep Renegade headed south to retrace our route on the James Bay Road. No more than 15 minutes into our journey we encountered heavy snow. It didn't stick to the road or make things slippery, but it came down hard for most of the next 3 hours and made for poor visability and low speeds. During a let-up, I snapped a photo to show just the little sticking to the grass:

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/snow%20on%20ground_zpsz3o65jnp.jpg

 

During this same week in June, Ohio was in a scorching heat wave with a heat index over 100 a few days.

 

The two vehicles traveled together on the James Bay Road without incident, then went our separate ways home at Val d' Or, Quebec. I'd have to say that many of our concerns for driving the Road were unrealized. We had no tire issues, we encountered no vehicle-destroying large wildlife (although we had a huge black bear run across the road ahead of us), and we encountered absolutely zero law enforcement on the Road.

 

Going it alone for the last part

 

Since I needed to go to Ohio, I headed southwest out of Quebec and crossed into Ontario at Notre Dame du Nord. I stuck with highway and some two-lane roads. The countryside was especially beautiful along the Trans Canada Highway (Route 11) south to North Bay and Lake Nippissing. I wish I had taken time to snap photos along the route and spent more time exploring the area, but I was on a tight schedule to get home.

 

Whereas we had crossed into Canada at Kingston going north, I crossed at Windsor on my way home. On Day 7 of my journey, I arrived home in Delaware, Ohio. I had traveled 3,950 miles and averaged just under 27 mpg, which I thought was great considering some of the roads. The Renegade performed without flaw and was a comfortable, capable ride the whole time.

 

Worth it?

It certainly was to me. No, we didn't see any polar bears or stunning arctic landscapes. We really didn't expect to. And the Northern Lights, for which Chisasibi is famous, are very rarely seen at the Summer Solstice, when we travelled.

http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r445/martyr65/James%20Bay%20Expedition/northern%20lights_zpsh4ovcjqj.jpg

 

But I really enjoy driving, and especially enjoy remote roads. The forests and lakes of the taiga have an enchantment. Driving for hours, not seeing another vehicle, out of the range of cell phones and radio, is peaceful and rejuvenating for me. Having travel companions who are trekking along with you "just because it's there," can't be beat. And the surprise plus for me was getting to spend some time with Cree people and learn about their lives and their values. I'd love to return to Chisasibi, but I know that it's unlikely. Still, I feel privileged to have, just once, been one of the few to have driven to where the James Bay empties into the Hudson Bay.

Edited by Doc
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