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BMW 2002


Lauren

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Malaga is a beautiful color when done right, it's hard to photograph because dark colors aren't easy to capture.

 

Unless you are willing to take the car to bare shell to paint it, don't color change it.

 

I'm absolutely willing to take it to bare shell. That's the plan

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Not gonna argue old BMW's with you b/c you know more about them than me and I had to google to be sure but it doesn't seem Rubinrot was a color on the 2002's.

 

It's paint code 018 and it's listed as a 2002 color for 1976 and 1977. Rubinrot is German for "Ruby Red" and it was a really fine metallic color. Lighter than Malaga but darker than granatrot from the same year which was a really high metallic medium dark red.

 

What made me think the car was Rubinrot was the door jambs which in daylight looked lighter than what I remember Malaga to be. But BMW puts the names of the color on a sticker in the engine bay so if he read it and it says Malaga then that is the color of the car.

 

To do a bare shell, frame up restoration of a 2002 right it costs about $30k. And you have to document where all the stickers and labels go and be cognizant of the date coded parts. Or you can just put a new coat of the same color paint on the outside and keep all of that original stuff. It also takes about a year to two to do everything.

 

When it comes to old cars, the high value cars are the most original ones and the ones that had nut and bolt accurate restorations. Anything else in between is a lesser car. People looking for original cars will overlook bolt on things like removing the ugly US bumpers, BMW wheels to get better access to tires, and changing out the carb to run better but won't care for color swaps or fender flares. The resto guys looking at a car that was bare shell will nitpick the details and how well you recreated them and reduce the value by how much they will have to "correct".

 

Guys into modded 2002s will want to see engine work and custom suspension work to go along with the flares and such. Just having the flares and cosmetic stiff is nice but it doesn't drive the value.

 

What you have is a nice original unmolested car. Your best value proposition is to clean up the outside cosmetics, put the new carb on to make it run right, and try to preserve the rest while you drive it around.

 

At the end of the day it's your car and you are free to do what you want, I'm just here giving you friendly advice because the old car hobby is different from the modern "let's mod the crap out of everything" late model car hobby. The things enthuasists value at this level are different, a lot of them think of themselves as preservationists and caretakers of history rather than car owners. They made thousands of these cars and many of them were modded and cut up so getting an unmolested one is rare, appreciate what you have.

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It's paint code 018 and it's listed as a 2002 color for 1976 and 1977. Rubinrot is German for "Ruby Red" and it was a really fine metallic color. Lighter than Malaga but darker than granatrot from the same year which was a really high metallic medium dark red.

 

What made me think the car was Rubinrot was the door jambs which in daylight looked lighter than what I remember Malaga to be. But BMW puts the names of the color on a sticker in the engine bay so if he read it and it says Malaga then that is the color of the car.

 

To do a bare shell, frame up restoration of a 2002 right it costs about $30k. And you have to document where all the stickers and labels go and be cognizant of the date coded parts. Or you can just put a new coat of the same color paint on the outside and keep all of that original stuff. It also takes about a year to two to do everything.

 

When it comes to old cars, the high value cars are the most original ones and the ones that had nut and bolt accurate restorations. Anything else in between is a lesser car. People looking for original cars will overlook bolt on things like removing the ugly US bumpers, BMW wheels to get better access to tires, and changing out the carb to run better but won't care for color swaps or fender flares. The resto guys looking at a car that was bare shell will nitpick the details and how well you recreated them and reduce the value by how much they will have to "correct".

 

Guys into modded 2002s will want to see engine work and custom suspension work to go along with the flares and such. Just having the flares and cosmetic stiff is nice but it doesn't drive the value.

 

What you have is a nice original unmolested car. Your best value proposition is to clean up the outside cosmetics, put the new carb on to make it run right, and try to preserve the rest while you drive it around.

 

At the end of the day it's your car and you are free to do what you want, I'm just here giving you friendly advice because the old car hobby is different from the modern "let's mod the crap out of everything" late model car hobby. The things enthuasists value at this level are different, a lot of them think of themselves as preservationists and caretakers of history rather than car owners. They made thousands of these cars and many of them were modded and cut up so getting an unmolested one is rare, appreciate what you have.

 

Appreciate this post very much. We all know I eventually sell a car and don't hold onto them but I feel like this one is different. I will never find another in this condition. I kind of want to build it how I want it and enjoy it so color change and all.

 

I'm not in a rush with it. Seeing as its my fifth car I can take my time and enjoy each stage

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I'm with Kerry - definitely repaint it the factory color, clean it up, some aesthetic/driving mods (like wheels/tires, carb, bumper delete) and rock it. I wasn't a big fan of Moreagrun on my E36 but gaddamn has it grown on me over the years.

 

I seriously don't get why you would even go all the way to the tub with this one...in addition to a family and career, you're really going to put that much time and effort into changing the color the right way??? Your time is far less valuable than mine.

 

Plus, when you DO go to sell it, you'll have dumb money sunk into a 90% job. Good decision.

 

Be Lauren: 2007 phone, 2007 thought process. Just when I think you're going somewhere good you fuck up.

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Appreciate this post very much. We all know I eventually sell a car and don't hold onto them but I feel like this one is different. I will never find another in this condition. I kind of want to build it how I want it and enjoy it so color change and all.

 

I'm not in a rush with it. Seeing as its my fifth car I can take my time and enjoy each stage

 

I get it, and honestly, I'm a hot rod guy so I kind of find all this resto stuff kinda silly too in how extreme it gets some times (ask me someday about restoring corvettes to get NCRS Top Flite and Bloomington gold - silliness abounds). I went through this with my GTO, I bought a 60K mile car that was numbers matching with all paperwork and ripped into it and found out the hard way that things like seatbelts and exhaust manifolds are date coded and people will pay stupid money for what I thought was junk. I took a lot of shit from resto purists for hacking up what they thought was the perfect unmolested restoration candidiate (a 60K mile 1 family car with all paperwork that had never been hit and still had it's original paint, even though it was rusty and there was no way to save the original paint). Before that car I had no idea plug wires were date coded and that people will pay money for them or treat you like you raped their sister when you tell them you threw them away.

 

As long as you are in it for the enjoyment of it and making something cool that's fine, even it it means you may take a loss with it (and there is a chance you will take a loss with it).

 

the great part of the car hobby is that 99% of the problems out there can be solved with money. the 1% are things like originality, where it is only original once.

 

Try wet sanding buffing a panel and see how you like it,I would like to see that...let the next loose his shirt.

This. Old paint is super durable and most of it can be brought back with a machine compound and buff. even the roughest stuff.

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I get it, and honestly, I'm a hot rod guy so I kind of find all this resto stuff kinda silly too in how extreme it gets some times (ask me someday about restoring corvettes to get NCRS Top Flite and Bloomington gold - silliness abounds). I went through this with my GTO, I bought a 60K mile car that was numbers matching with all paperwork and ripped into it and found out the hard way that things like seatbelts and exhaust manifolds are date coded and people will pay stupid money for what I thought was junk. I took a lot of shit from resto purists for hacking up what they thought was the perfect unmolested restoration candidiate (a 60K mile 1 family car with all paperwork that had never been hit and still had it's original paint, even though it was rusty and there was no way to save the original paint). Before that car I had no idea plug wires were date coded and that people will pay money for them or treat you like you raped their sister when you tell them you threw them away.

 

As long as you are in it for the enjoyment of it and making something cool that's fine, even it it means you may take a loss with it (and there is a chance you will take a loss with it).

 

the great part of the car hobby is that 99% of the problems out there can be solved with money. the 1% are things like originality, where it is only original once.

 

 

This. Old paint is super durable and most of it can be brought back with a machine compound and buff. even the roughest stuff.

I'm like Trump I don't lose.

 

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk

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I'm like Trump I don't lose.

 

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk

 

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lol.

 

All I'm saying is - if you are going to worry about the end value, then do the thing that maximizes the end value, keep it as original as possible with a few subtle mods that can be undone and drive it. If you aren't going to worry about the end value - go nuts, and understand that with old cars sometimes you have to hang on to them for a while for the value to go up again.

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