1986 Mustang GT - What To Do?

[Wease]

So I've owned my near stock 1986 Mustang GT since 2004, by far the longest I've ever owned a car. I've always kept it with the notion that sooner or later I'd build an engine /transmission for it, get it painted, etc. I believe that time is soon. I don't have the experience to actually build the engine or do a lot of the work myself, at this point in my life I'd rather just pay someone / a company to do it and do it right.

 

The goal here is not to go nuts with power or money, I'd rather just have a healthy NA Mustang, where I can retain the stock hood and look. The original 302 needs to go, it leaks / burns some oil and it's got around 115K on it now. The car itself is in great shape, some spotty rust here and there, but a really decent driver. I also don't want to go totally nuts on it where I'm afraid to drive it because it's too nice.

 

So I'm thinking engine, transmission, wheels / tires (get rid of those 4 lugs), interior refresh (dash pad, not sure what else), and a paint job while fixing some of the rust issues.

 

I'd be interested in hearing what everyone thinks I should do, and maybe some local options for a shop to do the work? Here are some recent pics for those who have not seen it:

 

http://wease.net/86/7-2019/86-1.jpg

 

http://wease.net/86/7-2019/86-2.jpg

 

http://wease.net/86/7-2019/86-3.jpg

 

http://wease.net/86/7-2019/86-4.jpg

[gillbot]

ls swap

 

in all seriousness, do you have a power goal? If not, just refresh the original motor and cruise it.

[Geeto67]

Coyote swap. Seriously. you don't need a $6-8K crate motor, I've seen 2011-2014 coyote's for $3200 out of wrecked mustangs, and F150 coyotes for around $2500.

 

Keep it bone stock looking, I wouldn't even repaint it. Maybe clean up some of the trim and that's it. Let the engine bay or the rear tires do the talking.

[Coaster]

Coyote swap. Seriously. you don't need a $6-8K crate motor, I've seen 2011-2014 coyote's for $3200 out of wrecked mustangs, and F150 coyotes for around $2500.

 

Keep it bone stock looking, I wouldn't even repaint it. Maybe clean up some of the trim and that's it. Let the engine bay or the rear tires do the talking.

 

I have to agree with this I like the all original look.

[spankis]

If you were to go the coyote/sleeper route, I've always enjoyed the dudes who go with widened factory wheels rather than going aftermarket. Love it!

 

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-1007ZNC/Mustang-Pony-Wheel-Center-Cap-17x10-Silver-79-93

[BuckeyeROC]

Coyote swap. Seriously. you don't need a $6-8K crate motor, I've seen 2011-2014 coyote's for $3200 out of wrecked mustangs, and F150 coyotes for around $2500.

 

Keep it bone stock looking, I wouldn't even repaint it. Maybe clean up some of the trim and that's it. Let the engine bay or the rear tires do the talking.

 

This. Modern drivetrain and maybe some modern suspension parts, leave the looks as close to stock as possible.

[wagner]

Coyote swap, use one from a Mustang, stay away from the F150 engines since they're different.

 

It comes down to budget really. You can buy what they use in Coyote Stock, you'll just need an ECU and harness.

 

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6007-M50SA

 

You can buy a long block from someone like MMR or another Coyote engine builder and then buy one of the Holley Terminator systems that are specifically made for a Coyote/Fox swap.

 

You're going to pay 2-4K for a transmission so just be ready for that.

[zeitgeist57]

I have no experience with high-performance engine builds (just hanging parts on longblocks and wrenching back into vehicles), but having seen a couple Coyote-swapped Fox bodies at CC&C I have to agree with this assessment above for 2 reasons:

1) Pushing 350-400hp from a 5.0L/302 is going to cost a lot of money, and you're still saddled with an old-tech 302 in the end anyway.

2) Even a zero-mile sealed factory engine pushing 430+ hp for less than $10k is impressive regardless of the powerplant.

 

You're talking about a good investment in $$$ for a guy/shop to fix your car. I'd future-proof it by doing a take-out Coyote/trans swap with aftermarket parts. :thumbup:

[Mensan]

Summit Racing - FORD BluePrint Engines Ford 347 C.I.D. 415 HP Dressed Stroker Long Block Crate Engines BP3474CTC

 

Edited for transparency and ease of viewing

Edited January 11, 2021 by Mensan

[cruizin01]

I dont know what your budget is but paying someone to coyote swap your car is definitely not cheap. What's everyone think, $15K..maybe $20k in parts and labor?

 

What about buying a decent 5L crate engine and putting a Holley Terminator on it? Im not a ford guy so I dont have too much knowledge on these cars. Could you buy a $5k long block and make 430hp plus the $1k holley and have a modern EFI system on it with easy tuning and good driveability? Im just talking out loud here.

 

I like the looks of the car as it is though. I like the idea of widened stock wheels along with suspension upgrades, better tires, etc.

[Jewtoys]

V6 Ecoboost

[Geeto67]

I dont know what your budget is but paying someone to coyote swap your car is definitely not cheap. What's everyone think, $15K..maybe $20k in parts and labor?

 

If you pay someone to do the whole thing start to finish, seems accurate. However, there are ways to mitigate those costs by doing some of the work yourself and farming out the harder things.

 

An old school crate motor plus a holley terminator is $6K, a dropout engine and trans coyote is about $7K, so parts are a wash. The only way to really save any money on a project like this is to do it yourself, labor is going to be the lions share of all of it.

 

This looks helpful:

https://lmr.com/products/how-to-coyote-swap-a-fox-body-mustang

[cruizin01]

An old school crate motor plus a holley terminator is $6K, a dropout engine and trans coyote is about $7K, so parts are a wash.

 

You can't honestly think that a swap project would only need those 2 things? Its ALL the other things that you dont think about that double the cost of a project like this.

 

Where as if he stays SBF he gets to reuse/replace all that stuff versus buying more expensive specialty swap parts and/or custom made parts.

 

Ask me how much I have in my 5.3 swap that started with a $700 engine.

[cstmg8]

Great car to start with. If you're not looking for a racecar, I say go with the refresh/update of the current powertrain, and spend the swap savings on updated suspension etc..

5.0's are pretty cheap to make decent power.

 

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

[gillbot]

Great car to start with. If you're not looking for a racecar, I say go with the refresh/update of the current powertrain, and spend the swap savings on updated suspension etc..

5.0's are pretty cheap to make decent power.

 

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

That’s my thought. Refresh the engine, put the rest into handling and cosmetics. You’ll have a great head turner that suits your needs. You can always go crazy later.

[Otis Nice]

 

Ask me how much I have in my 5.3 swap that started with a $700 engine.

 

How much do you have in your 5.3 swap that started with a $700 engine?

[carl1647545492]

Looks clean to me? do nothing other than making the blems right and drive and enjoy it for what it is.

[cruizin01]

How much do you have in your 5.3 swap that started with a $700 engine?

 

Haha, you would. I dont know, depends on how many parts are "related" to the swap. Probably 13.2676 times the original $700.

[Otis Nice]

Haha, you would. I dont know, depends on how many parts are "related" to the swap. Probably 13.2676 times the original $700.

 

You told us to. lol

 

It's never "just $xx.xx and just xyz" with older projects.

[fattyona12]

I'd do a freshen up on the motor, either just re-ring and bearing, since the 86 is a forged piston motor or go to 306 but if you're going to 306 might as well go 331 for a few hundred more since you're boring it out anyways. Put a nice set of twisted wedge or afr 165/185 heads and performer rpm or twisted wedge intake on it. Around a 510-520 lift cam. A centerforce dual friction type clutch, pro 5.0 shifter, fms driveshaft. Shorty headers and X-pipe with your choice of mufflers. Frame ties. Put 3.73 to 4.10 gears. Do a 5 lug swap with 31 spline axles with a limited slip diff. poly bushing upper and lowers. a decent rate spring all the way around. then you would need a tune, injectors and i'd put a bigger radiator in. you should run 11's (depending on which heads and gear you choose) on a drag radial and drive where ever you want. the t-5 with the pro 5.0 and that block will hold that hp and set up for a long time. issues happen when you add power adders, like a 225 shot and split the block in half to run 10.20's on heads that only flow 170 cfm on the intake side...lol i ran base performer heads with a f cam and 1.7 roller rockers on a stock block 347 for years with a victor jr intake and 650 carb hooked to a t-5 for years. that combo on a radial in a stock suspension 84 vert went 11.82 with 4.10 gears and burnt up radials. then in a 89 coupe with 4.30 gears and a slick its gone 11.42

[fattyona12]

I am checking with a couple shops to see if they could do the swap for you.

[Geeto67]

You can't honestly think that a swap project would only need those 2 things? Its ALL the other things that you dont think about that double the cost of a project like this.

 

Where as if he stays SBF he gets to reuse/replace all that stuff versus buying more expensive specialty swap parts and/or custom made parts.

 

Ask me how much I have in my 5.3 swap that started with a $700 engine.

 

Of course not, but those are the big costs and usually the big hurdle. Sure the "little things" nickle and dime every project into twice the budget but they usually do it over a period of time instead of a single purchase.

 

my point was only that for the large expenditures - doing an old school SBF and a Holley terminator is basically a wash in the large expenditure category when compared to a coyote drop out which is superior.

 

I think the ancillary expenditures are the same regardless, its hit or miss on reusing the stock stuff when swinging in a crate motor, and most of the time its a miss. Dad put a crate old school 350 chevy in the '57 vette recently and do you know how much stock stuff he used? 0, none, nada. Both old school small block chevys but even the valve covers don't fit without special adapters.

 

 

Cheapest way for the OP is go get a reman stock long block and swing that in with all his stock stuff. car won't make any power but at least it will not leak oil. If he has a numbers matching car, it might be worth it to re-ring and reseal the engine he has, but labor wise that is still going to be slightly more expensive. Who in town works on fox body era small block fords?

[Aaron]

Keep it period and build a pushrod Ford. It’ll be easier, cheaper and quicker, despite what “some” are suggesting.

[zeitgeist57]

I'd do a freshen up on the motor, either just re-ring and bearing, since the 86 is a forged piston motor or go to 306 but if you're going to 306 might as well go 331 for a few hundred more since you're boring it out anyways. Put a nice set of twisted wedge or afr 165/185 heads and performer rpm or twisted wedge intake on it. Around a 510-520 lift cam. A centerforce dual friction type clutch, pro 5.0 shifter, fms driveshaft. Shorty headers and X-pipe with your choice of mufflers. Frame ties. Put 3.73 to 4.10 gears. Do a 5 lug swap with 31 spline axles with a limited slip diff. poly bushing upper and lowers. a decent rate spring all the way around. then you would need a tune, injectors and i'd put a bigger radiator in. you should run 11's (depending on which heads and gear you choose) on a drag radial and drive where ever you want. the t-5 with the pro 5.0 and that block will hold that hp and set up for a long time. issues happen when you add power adders, like a 225 shot and split the block in half to run 10.20's on heads that only flow 170 cfm on the intake side...lol i ran base performer heads with a f cam and 1.7 roller rockers on a stock block 347 for years with a victor jr intake and 650 carb hooked to a t-5 for years. that combo on a radial in a stock suspension 84 vert went 11.82 with 4.10 gears and burnt up radials. then in a 89 coupe with 4.30 gears and a slick its gone 11.42

 

Welp, there's your recipe. :thumbup:

[TTQ B4U]

Great car to start with. If you're not looking for a racecar, I say go with the refresh/update of the current powertrain, and spend the swap savings on updated suspension etc..

5.0's are pretty cheap to make decent power.

 

I'd do a freshen up on the motor, either just re-ring and bearing, since the 86 is a forged piston motor or go to 306 but if you're going to 306 might as well go 331 for a few hundred more since you're boring it out anyways. Put a nice set of twisted wedge or afr 165/185 heads and performer rpm or twisted wedge intake on it. Around a 510-520 lift cam. A centerforce dual friction type clutch, pro 5.0 shifter, fms driveshaft. Shorty headers and X-pipe with your choice of mufflers. Frame ties. Put 3.73 to 4.10 gears. Do a 5 lug swap with 31 spline axles with a limited slip diff. poly bushing upper and lowers. a decent rate spring all the way around. then you would need a tune, injectors and i'd put a bigger radiator in. you should run 11's (depending on which heads and gear you choose) on a drag radial and drive where ever you want. the t-5 with the pro 5.0 and that block will hold that hp and set up for a long time.

 

 

 

 

^^ this all day. your car is super clean and nice as it is. from there, I'd do the polisher thing on it including some trim work and enjoy that baby all day every sunny day.

 

Good luck. Looking forward to seeing what you decide.