Electrical Gremlin Strikes Again!

[CBRzach]

Hey guys I need some advice.

My 07 1000RR starting blowing fuses tonight after I picked it up from Sporty's Honda. The fuse that keeps blowing is the 10 amp for the horn, indicators, and brake light circuit.

Any idea what may be wrong? Think I can call Sporty's and have them fix it? All they did was work on my gear shifter. It was stripped where it bolts into the frame. I dont think this would have caused any problems with the electrical system. Someone told me they always disconnect the battery before any job. Maybe that has something to do with it?

The fuse blows as soon as I turn the key on.

Lemme know guys!

[Wheezle]

Have you modified anything on that circuit?

[CBRzach]

I installed two flush mount led turn signals last winter and rode the bike all year with no problems. RSVDon installed an HID kit for me a couple weeks ago but thats on a different circuit.

[Wheezle]

Check the signals. Did you crimp or sauder the connections with heat shrink around that? Did you use a load equalizer? Check over you connections and how you have run the wires making sure you don't see any wear spots or loose wires.

[CBRzach]

The wires were plug and play.

[Wheezle]

Well then, check for wear on the wires and and corrosion in the connectors.

[wht_scorpion]

might be the problem are the leds. Look in to it leds could use resistors or a change the fuse relay to some thing stronger fuse relay I use a auto fuse relay for my leds so it pluse slow look at the blinks tail lights are wired to the front blinkers

[fusion]

Take it to Southside if you need to take it anywhere. I won't take anything to Sporty's anymore.

[wrillo]

check the flush mounts, wires, and connectors. No metal or wire touching the frame, its probably something shorting out to ground. I'll help you out if you need it. Come out with the Dayton crew to Dyno Day this Saturday and we can check it out there.

[Tonik]

The fuse that keeps blowing is the 10 amp for the horn, indicators, and brake light circuit.

Unhook each of those items one at a time and test it out to narrow it down.

[MidgetTodd]

I'll bet the problem is in the plug connection on the taillight or in the taillight wires where they run along your subframe and go thru a couple clips.

[ReconRat]

Unhook each of those items one at a time and test it out to narrow it down.

With a big bucket of fresh fuses handy. Yes, it's a dead short. Unplug everything on that fuse circuit, and plug things in one at a time till the fuse blows out. You only use one fuse finding it that way.

hopefully only one short, and hopefully it's constant. Try not to move stuff around too much, til you have a good idea where it is.

[hue jass]

Try replacing the fuse and use a simple volt meter. Set it to check continuity, and go to the end of the line on each circuit. Example: take out a bulb, touch one lead to a good ground and the other to each of the contacts. You'll find the wire but finding the short is another story. You can pretty much be sure that the short won't be in a pack of wires running together and covered. It's likely where the wire crosses the frame or makes a transition. I don't think they had to take off your lower fairings to do the job they did, but you never know. Just like you never know what idiot is working on your shit when you take it to a shop.

Tom- I would've thought you'd be the last guy to suggest a bucket of fuses!

[ReconRat]

Haha, I wanted to go with the VOM, but that gets too intense describing the procedure to troubleshoot with. For the record, my prefered method, is to identify which circuit at the fuse box, and disconnect the battery. Check continuity from fuse box to the mid-point of the wiring harness circuit that has the problem. Divide again till the problem is found. In this case, since it's a dead short, it's continuity between the frame (ground) and the wiring harness, since there shouldn't be any with the battery disconnected. Bulbs are a problem, they may have to be removed or unplugged, since they connect through to ground. But bulbs should show some resistance, and that can be seen and disregarded. Looking for VOM voltage (resistance/continuity) feeding the frame in any portion of the harness. Again, if wires move around, the short might go away temporarily. Sometimes have to resort to pushing pulling shaking wires to find the short.

It's easier when it's a short with the key off. Since this is not, more than likely the trace will have to go through the ignition switch as well. I try to eliminate the ignition switch as a possible short, right away.

Edited April 2, 2010 by ReconRat

[hue jass]

Actually, I always look to the last thing that was done to the machine. In this case, taking it in to a shop for something completely unrelated. He should bring it back to them and make them track it down. Course that could only prove to be more problems than a...bucket of fuses;)

[ReconRat]

Well, that too. I agree it is quite often the last thing done or the last place worked in and around. Way too often.