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Rust in fuel tank


Jst2fst

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Okay, so I went and checked out my bike and their is rust in the fuel tank with about a gallon or two of fuel in it still.

1.) How do I get rid of the fuel in their as in dispose of safely?

2.) How do I get the rust out of the tank and stop it from rusting?

3.) What can I do to protect the inside of the tank from contact with the fuel?

All suggestions are welcome and how you you guys done this?

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Dump or siphon the old fuel into something like an oil drain pan.

Pour the old fuel through two coffee filters (funnel/gas can),

and put it in the car/truck/lawnmower tank and use it.

If you don't want to use it, mix it in a can with kitty litter or driveway oil dry, and let it evaporate.

edit: don't start any fires...

Edited by ReconRat
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Dump or siphon the old fuel into something like an oil drain pan.

Pour the old fuel through two coffee filters (funnel/gas can),

and put it in the car/truck/lawnmower tank and use it.

If you don't want to use it, mix it in a can with kitty litter or driveway oil dry, and let it evaporate.

Thanks, yea I don't want to really waste the fuel so I'll try the filter method thanks man.

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Seriously, you don't want to waste 6 bucks worth of shit gas? you'll pay 4 bucks for a filter THAT WON'T FIX your problem?

Drain that shit gas like Recon said. Filter it and use it in a less sensitive engine like a lawnmower or car.

Now, take some kerosene or gas (small amount) and toss in a handfull of drywall screws or nuts (count how many you put in!) and shake that tank around to remove as much loose rust as possible. Then get a Kreme kit and treat the tank.

Taking the easy way out here will only make your problems worse. Ignore it too long and you'll end up with a hole in your tank.

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Naval Jelly. Dilute it with water to make it easier to swirl around the tank (Try two parts jelly to one part water). Coat the whole inside, let it sit 10 to fifteen minutes then rinse it out.

Use either denatured alcohol or acetone to evaporate the water.

Two things at this point:

1)Either fill with gasoline immediately OR

2) Coat the tank with a sealer. I don't recommend what they sell at Jeg's (which is KBS I believe). Red Kote and Kreem come in quarts, meaning you get enough liquid to coat the entire inside of the tank.

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Seriously, you don't want to waste 6 bucks worth of shit gas? you'll pay 4 bucks for a filter THAT WON'T FIX your problem?

Drain that shit gas like Recon said. Filter it and use it in a less sensitive engine like a lawnmower or car.

Now, take some kerosene or gas (small amount) and toss in a handfull of drywall screws or nuts (count how many you put in!) and shake that tank around to remove as much loose rust as possible. Then get a Kreme kit and treat the tank.

Taking the easy way out here will only make your problems worse. Ignore it too long and you'll end up with a hole in your tank.

I am going to use a different motor not sure what you thought I was still going to use it on the bike. By me saying the filter method as in meaning I'll filter the fuel to use on my go-kart motor man.

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Be careful if you use naval jelly - it has a tendency to create these little rotten-looking clumps of slime where it attacks the rust that can be tough to get off. They'll eventually fall off and clog up filters and carbs. In a tank they'll be hard to spot.

I use a combo of the ball bearings/nuts/etc along with CLR (get it at Meijer/Kroger in the cleaning isle). Shake for a bit, let it sit for half an hour or so, shake again... keep this up for a couple cycles and rinse out with something to evaporate the water. Easy on the shaking if the tank wall is thin - your tank will look like a pimply teenager if you put too much ass into it.

As for coatings, I've had better luck with Red Kote than Kreem. Currently dealing with a shittily-applied coat of Kreem that's coming apart in my Commando tank right now. Pretty irritating.

For the ultimate (but probably priciest) solution, pick up one of these kits for everything you need: http://www.por15.com/ This stuff's nice because it'll bond just as well to the little surface rust that pops up after drying where the other coatings work best when there's no rust at all.

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Be careful if you use naval jelly - it has a tendency to create these little rotten-looking clumps of slime where it attacks the rust that can be tough to get off. They'll eventually fall off and clog up filters and carbs. In a tank they'll be hard to spot.

I use a combo of the ball bearings/nuts/etc along with CLR (get it at Meijer/Kroger in the cleaning isle). Shake for a bit, let it sit for half an hour or so, shake again... keep this up for a couple cycles and rinse out with something to evaporate the water. Easy on the shaking if the tank wall is thin - your tank will look like a pimply teenager if you put too much ass into it.

As for coatings, I've had better luck with Red Kote than Kreem. Currently dealing with a shittily-applied coat of Kreem that's coming apart in my Commando tank right now. Pretty irritating.

For the ultimate (but probably priciest) solution, pick up one of these kits for everything you need: http://www.por15.com/ This stuff's nice because it'll bond just as well to the little surface rust that pops up after drying where the other coatings work best when there's no rust at all.

Hey I had the same thing happen to my tank with a shitty KBS coating!

CLR is a good idea. I'll have to try that on the next tank I restore (which hopefully won't be for my bike in the near future!)

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Honestly, if you have about $75 do this..

use a siphon, and remove the gas. If you want to save it do as everyone else stated and filter it and use it in a lawn mower.

Next take the tank to Hendrick radiator on Morse rd, he's dip it and re seal it. I had my Honda tank done a few years ago, and it worked great. I've heard the bearing/nails/whatever trick and for some it worked and some it didn't. Most radiator shops do the seals if your not int he Columbus area....sorry forgot to look. Anyway call around and get prices. Much easier.

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this stuff is fantastic, the kit includes everything you need to clean and seal a tank.

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/KBS-Cycle-Tank-Sealer-Kit_p_31.html

you should be able to find it locally from a auto paint supply store.

Having used this exact kit I'm going to have to disagree. And before we go any further:

yes I know how to read, yes I read the instructions, yes I followed the instructions.

The problem with the KBS setup is that the sealant is to thick to effectively coat the entire tank. It also doesn't handle the surface rust that appears after cleaning very well.

Besides for ten dollars less you can get some CLR or Naval Jelly and a quart of Red Kote.

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I have a stupid question....

How do you find out for sure if you have a rusty tank?

Looking inside with a flash light? running some fuel through a coffee filter and see what deposit leaves?

When I took the carb apart last fall I noticed some brownish deposit at the bottom of the bowls. Is that an indication of rust?

Thanks for the help....

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I have a stupid question....

How do you find out for sure if you have a rusty tank?

Looking inside with a flash light? running some fuel through a coffee filter and see what deposit leaves?

When I took the carb apart last fall I noticed some brownish deposit at the bottom of the bowls. Is that an indication of rust?

Thanks for the help....

Could be. Looking inside with a mirror and flashlight is a good idea. So's the coffee filter idea.

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