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Can I get another track day out of this tire?


idodishez
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is that a Q2? i'm going to assume it is.

i would just change it so you're not worrying about confidence in your tire during the next track day. rears are like 125~135 or something like that. just my pansy opinion.

was that on your zx-10?

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just making sure it was a liter bike trashing that tire lol

how many track days and street miles (if any) do you have on that tire?

Bought it as a take off, so not sure. 1 track day for me. Prob no more than 1000 street miles.

I'll replace it. Was just Hoping to Get one mOre Track day. I'm Broke!

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Bought it as a take off, so not sure. 1 track day for me. Prob no more than 1000 street miles.

I'll replace it. Was just Hoping to Get one mOre Track day. I'm Broke!

you probably can if you're not really fast. it looks like the person who rode it before had it underinflated judging by the deep tear looking wear about half way from center to the tire edge.

that's how I tore a tire on mine once. that's called hot tearing. the tire gets too hot and melts away...

you can clearly see it in mine.

5979388129_471dedf8a5_z.jpg

this is even after I ran on it for another 3 20 min session with the proper air pressure in it. (yes it tore that deep)

Edited by serpentracer
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you probably can if you're not really fast. it looks like the person who rode it before had it underinflated judging by the deep tear looking wear about half way from center to the tire edge.

that's how I tore a tire on mine once. that's called hot tearing. the tire gets too hot and melts away...

you can clearly see it in mine.

5979388129_471dedf8a5_z.jpg

this is even after I ran on it for another 3 20 min session with the proper air pressure in it. (yes it tore that deep)

Honestly the last 3 tires I have had on the track looked very similar to this. (rubber beading up, or whatever you call it) Isn't this somewhat normal for a track ran tire.

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Honestly the last 3 tires I have had on the track looked very similar to this. (rubber beading up, or whatever you call it) Isn't this somewhat normal for a track ran tire.

That GP-A looks perfectly fine and looks to be inflated properly. It does NOT appear to be under inflation. Remember, these are to be about 23 hot off the track and 21 off the warmers after 45 minutes to an hour.

Typically speaking, if you get wear like seen in the other tire where it is tearing slightly, it is a suspension issue and not inflation... Always a rule for everything and of course exceptions, but that GP-A looks great and considering it was through the wear marks, it was most likely off a well setup race bike.

GP-As off a liter bike being raced or track day ran is usually VERY hard on them. I wore a GP-A rear in three sessions.

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I'd replace it as well, unless this next TD will be your last of the year, and you intend to take it easy.

GP-A's are meant to be used with warmers anyway. The GP's are even stickier...

Unless you're solidly in the middle of the pack w/ Advanced group, a Q2 is going to be plenty for you. I run them, and I believe Jinu runs or has run them recently as well.

I'm JUST starting to feel like i'm getting fast enough to warrant a better tire.

Q2 rears should be $130 or less. You can get sets for $230.

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That GP-A looks perfectly fine and looks to be inflated properly.[.........../QUOTE]

But not perfectly fine as in it has anohther track day left, right?

No, perfectly normal wear... I would NOT suggest the tire be used again... The price that Rusty has for a NTec is crazy good if it has enough to go even a single track day. I suspect that it does as he takes care of his stuff...

The tire you are showing is done for. It has served it's purpose very well.

If you like the GP-A, I have a set of take offs with great life left and even a brand new set if interested. Hard front and Med rear which was the choice for Mid-Ohio...

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That GP-A looks perfectly fine and looks to be inflated properly. It does NOT appear to be under inflation. Remember, these are to be about 23 hot off the track and 21 off the warmers after 45 minutes to an hour.

Typically speaking, if you get wear like seen in the other tire where it is tearing slightly, it is a suspension issue and not inflation... Always a rule for everything and of course exceptions, but that GP-A looks great and considering it was through the wear marks, it was most likely off a well setup race bike.

GP-As off a liter bike being raced or track day ran is usually VERY hard on them. I wore a GP-A rear in three sessions.

well I put another few lbs of air in mine and it quit tearing on that side.

it tore like that in one 20 min session. I rode it on the street for another few weeks and you could still see the tearing. it was almost to the cords probably.

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Honestly the last 3 tires I have had on the track looked very similar to this. (rubber beading up, or whatever you call it) Isn't this somewhat normal for a track ran tire.

yeah the little balls but if you look at the picture closely, there is a distinctive line that goes around the tire where it was tearing.

I could be wrong about it being hot tearing. but I figured it was because I had it under inflated. this was not a real race tire. it was a BT-002RS.

I was just going by what this site says,

http://crstuning.com/tire-wear.html

and the videos I have from Dave Moss they sell on that site.

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yeah the little balls but if you look at the picture closely, there is a distinctive line that goes around the tire where it was tearing.

I could be wrong about it being hot tearing. but I figured it was because I had it under inflated. this was not a real race tire. it was a BT-002RS.

I was just going by what this site says,

http://crstuning.com/tire-wear.html

and the videos I have from Dave Moss they sell on that site.

In reality, it is probably a cold tear from too much PSI if it is a pressure issue... The idea is that it does not show any balls of rubber on the outter most edge. If there are balls of rubber or bands of rubber, it is hot tearing which is under inflated...

Usually cold tear is smooth on the edges which it shows.

The bottom line is two fold. One, he has been running them on the street which is not what the tire is designed for. Two, the GP-A is a full blown race tire and depending on the compound, it looks very normal and very much what we have seen on especially liter bikes. That is the meat of the tire and when brought up to that point of the tire, it is most likely under the most load, it will tear.

Looking at the edges of the tread is more what you need to look at in his case. The edges having a slight tearing on them indicates possibly a high and low speed issue with his suspension...

Your tire shown is indicating hot tearing with the rubber on the edges. That means you are under inflated for what you are doing. It also can mean that the tire is getting too hot because you are using it on the track when it is a street tire. It is also indicating to me that you need to adjust rebound. You have a definitive strip that appears on the tire and looks to wavy. It also appears that you started as a cold tear and then it was adjusted. But, the rebound looks too fast to me...

In any case, the GP-A considering the wear it has received is in better shape than the second tire shown as an example. The tread on the GP-A is done for and well through the wear marks. With the wear it shows, it is looking good. The other tire is needing adjusted and could possibly be brought back to be used more...

9 out of 10 times, it is a combo of PSI and suspension. Knowing the OP's comments, I am betting that he never had the tire at 23 PSI hot off the track... at 180 degrees off the warmers, it should be 21-ish. I am betting a few bucks that he was running more PSI than that.

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In reality, it is probably a cold tear from too much PSI if it is a pressure issue... The idea is that it does not show any balls of rubber on the outter most edge. If there are balls of rubber or bands of rubber, it is hot tearing which is under inflated...

Usually cold tear is smooth on the edges which it shows.

The bottom line is two fold. One, he has been running them on the street which is not what the tire is designed for. Two, the GP-A is a full blown race tire and depending on the compound, it looks very normal and very much what we have seen on especially liter bikes. That is the meat of the tire and when brought up to that point of the tire, it is most likely under the most load, it will tear.

Looking at the edges of the tread is more what you need to look at in his case. The edges having a slight tearing on them indicates possibly a high and low speed issue with his suspension...

Your tire shown is indicating hot tearing with the rubber on the edges. That means you are under inflated for what you are doing. It also can mean that the tire is getting too hot because you are using it on the track when it is a street tire. It is also indicating to me that you need to adjust rebound. You have a definitive strip that appears on the tire and looks to wavy. It also appears that you started as a cold tear and then it was adjusted. But, the rebound looks too fast to me...

In any case, the GP-A considering the wear it has received is in better shape than the second tire shown as an example. The tread on the GP-A is done for and well through the wear marks. With the wear it shows, it is looking good. The other tire is needing adjusted and could possibly be brought back to be used more...

9 out of 10 times, it is a combo of PSI and suspension. Knowing the OP's comments, I am betting that he never had the tire at 23 PSI hot off the track... at 180 degrees off the warmers, it should be 21-ish. I am betting a few bucks that he was running more PSI than that.

when I bumped the tire back up to what bridgestone recommends (30 psi cold) for that tire the funny tearing went away. the whole tire cleaned up a shit ton

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when I bumped the tire back up to what bridgestone recommends (30 psi cold) for that tire the funny tearing went away. the whole tire cleaned up a shit ton

As I mentioned, your PSI was probably too low and you needed more. You are showing hot tearing... Bumping up will add air and therefore cool the tire essentially... The OP was most likely too high and showing signs of cold tearing. Most people will NEVER believe that a tire HOT after warmers or the track should be in the low 20s... Most guys start at 30 and go from there and 30 is too much for a tire like the GP-A and the Michelin race tires. It has to do with the stiffer sidewall...

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As I mentioned, your PSI was probably too low and you needed more. You are showing hot tearing... Bumping up will add air and therefore cool the tire essentially... The OP was most likely too high and showing signs of cold tearing. Most people will NEVER believe that a tire HOT after warmers or the track should be in the low 20s... Most guys start at 30 and go from there and 30 is too much for a tire like the GP-A and the Michelin race tires. It has to do with the stiffer sidewall...

ahh. I see. I thought you were saying mine was cold tearing.

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