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Bearing race removal?


max power

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I had to cut the swingarm out of my ATV (2001 Yamaha Warrior) due to the bearings disintegrating and the bearing sepatating sleeve welding itseslf to the swingarm bolt. As if that wasnt challenge enough, I cant seem to get the races out of the swingarm.

The tube is only about 1 1/4" and the slide hammer I borrowed from Advance doesnt seen to have a suitable attachment that will fit inside the races. I've been trying to heat them up and pull them with the booger hook, but they wont budge. One is basically melted to the tube.

Any suggestions?

I also posted this over on Porters Auto tech site: http://autotechlounge.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=75

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What kind of tools do you have and any pictures? You could use a big drill in a drill press, endmill in a mill, maybe even a hacksaw. A common trick for drywall is to break a hacksaw blade on one end for a tip, then just tape up the other end a lot for a handle; it will work in a lot of smaller places and surely within 1-1/4". On the same line of thought, put a blade through the bearing and put the hacksaw together around the bearing (like you would a jeweler's saw).

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What kind of tools do you have and any pictures? You could use a big drill in a drill press, endmill in a mill, maybe even a hacksaw. A common trick for drywall is to break a hacksaw blade on one end for a tip, then just tape up the other end a lot for a handle; it will work in a lot of smaller places and surely within 1-1/4". On the same line of thought, put a blade through the bearing and put the hacksaw together around the bearing (like you would a jeweler's saw).

I'm sure it's hardened steel, although heat has probably annealed it some to where some of these thing might work.

I have been able to use a cutting torch on some of applications like this without ruining anything other than the bearing race, but it takes a lot of patience!

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Find a socket that fits inside the swingarm and use a bigger socket on the outside as a press. Run some all thread through those and crank down on it drawing them together. Heat will probably help too.

NVM, use a grade 8 bolt instead. Allthread will probably break.

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This makes my head hurt just thinking about it... I had to buy a new swingarm bolt one year because I mushroomed it so bad inside the motor trying to beat it out... Horrible.

Only bit of info I can give now is to cross drill your new bolt. In two to three places with the smallest bit you can find. Then drill and tap the end (On a honda 400ex they are open or hollow all the way through the center) and add a grease zirk. Saved me the rest of the time I had the three of them.

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Only bit of info I can give now is to cross drill your new bolt. In two to three places with the smallest bit you can find. Then drill and tap the end (On a honda 400ex they are open or hollow all the way through the center) and add a grease zirk. Saved me the rest of the time I had the three of them.

I have actually been trying to figure out a good way of doing just that. You would think after 24 years of production, the Yamaha engineers would have figured out how to cofrect this issue. It is very common.

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Got the races out. :lol:

2011-12-16_23-50-21_863.jpg

New swingarm is on the way. original one is pretty jacked since I tried to cut through it out of frustration.

A weld bead and some dremel time would make it usable, but I ordered a new one last night since I didnt think I was gonna be able to get these out.

Live and learn.

Edited by max power
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  • 4 weeks later...
Finally got the thing back together. $200 later. :rolleyes:

Still need a chain and sprockets.

Awesome!! I think my buddy and I are going to ride around this Saturday outside Canal if you get that chain and sprocket.

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Here is how I would remove a pilot bearing from inside the end of the crank on my old sbc motor. Fill the hole partially, with grease. Make sure its at the back of the hole. Then take a drift that just fits into the bearing, the closer the size, the better. Take a hammer and strike the drift like you were hammering it into the hole in the crank. It forces the bearing right our, even if the bearing was pressed in.

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