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Aluminum in oil


grapesmuggler27

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Model, make, year, miles and maybe a video? To check if its aluminum, put it in some drano and see if it bubbles.

Or use a magnet. Most of the moving parts in the rotating assy and the parts they wear against are steel. aluminum could mean severely worn main bearings if they attend ball or roller type, could also be cam tower bearings, or something is way our of whack and its chewing up your cases from the inside. Tapping indicates rod bearing or low oil in top end.

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Hydrogen chloride is the active ingredient in dran-o, and it is also highly reactive with aluminum. Don't sniff it if it does bubble.

I made bombs with the crap as a teen.

Pics would be a good idea. Oil does get contaminants, but they shouldn't be that much...

edit: wrong product.. i made works bombs. works had hcl. 'works toilet bowl cleaner' and aluminum foil in a pop bottle.

Edited by RSparky
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Or use a magnet. Most of the moving parts in the rotating assy and the parts they wear against are steel. aluminum could mean severely worn main bearings if they attend ball or roller type, could also be cam tower bearings, or something is way our of whack and its chewing up your cases from the inside. Tapping indicates rod bearing or low oil in top end.

He said he used a magnet, and nothing stuck.

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Drano is mostly sodium hydroxide and the resulting reaction is very exothermic and gives off H2 gas (the bubbles).

-Edit-

Hydrogen chloride is the active ingredient in dran-o, and it is also highly reactive with aluminum. Don't sniff it if it does bubble.

I made bombs with the crap as a teen.

Pics would be a good idea. Oil does get contaminants, but they shouldn't be that much...

Not HCl (acid), NaOH (base). You can smell it pretty much all you want, the only danger is suffocation just like with smelling nearly any gas (nitrogen, CO2...). The reason its a bomb is because you have a flammable gas contained in a heated container which results in a BOOM

He said he used a magnet, and nothing stuck.

That's pretty definitive its not steel, my only concern is if he is seeing something else besides a metal (gray RTV for example).

I do agree with Crazy, tapping usually indicates a rod bearing but who knows yet; not enough information for me.

Edited by imprez55
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Is he hearing the cam chain? Is the cam chain adjusted properly? A loose cam chain will scuff off a lot of aluminum engine case if it's slapping it. But I wouldn't think that would tick, it would be more of a "sawing" sound...

Is it oiling properly? Pressure and flow? Service manual should have a way of checking that. (I looked, didn't see anything in particular.) Check the oil pressure regulator function. Check the oil strainer to see if it's clogged up.

Is it a piston slapping? Aluminum pistons scuff off a fair amount of material, but it normally goes to the filter or sump. Not floating around in the oil where you can see it.

Might never know unless the engine is torn down to find it...

edit: restated... metal in the oil means it's being produced in the engine, faster than the filter can take it out.

That would be a lot of metal. The cause must be found before it's too late.

Edited by ReconRat
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If A wrist pin were worn enough the resulting piston slap would cause a tapping noise and chew off a significant amount of Al. I would pull the filter off and cut it open, see how much metal there is on the element. My advice: put some 20w-50 and some Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer in it, see if it shuts it up, then sell it to a stranger.

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Typically, shavings in the oil are from bearings and things like aluminum being slowly shaved off similar to what Recon mentioned...

The steel idea is silly. Most things that will wear and show signs are bearings and such. Typically, those are copper colored or look like gold in the oil. Spun cranks look this way for example... This is when oil is coming out. The steel idea is fine, but it is so minimal, that you will sometimes see small shavings collected on the drain plug as it has a small magnet on it to catch them and isn't anything to really worry about... If it is something showing on oil drain and seen in the oil as it is hitting the drain pan, you have serious issues.

If it is a tick and not at idle, is it a tick when it comes down off a slow rev for example? If a tick is present off a slow blip of the throttle, it is most likely a cam chain tension issue (Could be a tensioner or combo of tensioner and chain).

My thoughts are echoed with everyone. If in the oil on draining (Remember that you will get some steel shavings on the plug) and looks like you are panning for gold, it is done for and could be caught to be fixed. An engine rebuild is typically much more than a used engine off Ebay, but a used engine off Ebay could be just like what you have now. ;)

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He is saying the tick sound is coming.from.the right side of the engine as your on the bike, so wouldn't that rule out the chain? And the aluminum flakes are in the drained oil

If constant, you got issues. If off decel on a throttle blip, it is probably a chain or adjuster or both...

Oil with flakes is bad news, man. BAAAAAD...

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Can we get pictures of the oil to see what extent it is? The cct is on the right if you're on it btw

...The steel idea is silly. ...

If that was pointed at me, I was being facetious. I said to test for aluminum and a magnet was used.

Edited by imprez55
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Can we get pictures of the oil to see what extent it is? The cct is on the right if you're on it btw

If that was pointed at me, I was being facetious. I said to test for aluminum and a magnet was used.

Don't get butt hurt, man. Steel was brought up by someone and the idea that flakes in the oil could be steel is silly because the drain plug would catch it. Flakes in oil are almost 100% aluminum or bearing material... Relax, man. It's all good.

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Don't get butt hurt, man. Steel was brought up by someone and the idea that flakes in the oil could be steel is silly because the drain plug would catch it. Flakes in oil are almost 100% aluminum or bearing material... Relax, man. It's all good.

How is clarification equivalent with being butt hurt? I did not know who it was in response to, so I simply explained that if it was directed at me than you misunderstood. The only reason I mentioned anything was because I still want to see pictures and to mention that the noise originating from the right side actually give more weight to the idea that the cam chain is the issue rather than eliminates it and it was convenient to mention it at the end.

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He/You should hit a forum specific to that bike to see if there are any known issues unique to that bike. For example if it was a 2006 1600 Nomad I would tell you it is the cam chains rubbing up against the spark plug tubes and that it is a simple 35 dollar fix.

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He/You should hit a forum specific to that bike to see if there are any known issues unique to that bike. For example if it was a 2006 1600 Nomad I would tell you it is the cam chains rubbing up against the spark plug tubes and that it is a simple 35 dollar fix.

He has been looking for a reason to "build" the motor anyways, so that's what he is going to do, just been looking for a good excuse now he has one.

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