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taking off the fairings


Exarch

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So im taking ofd my fairings tomorrow mornimg to figure out my electrical problem(hazards come on when I hit either signal :dunno: ) any thoughts on what could ne causing this? Also what else should I be checking for while I have.the fairings off to.do.my electrical work? keep in mind I plan on tearing the bike down and putting it back together in about.a 2 hour time frame, so nothing complicated please :)

Edit- aftermarket LEDs. Custom led integrated tail. Proton flush mounts. both show hazards on(aswell as the blinker light) ninja 250r has no hazards and no aftermarket hazard switch installed. Doesnt matter if I flip the left or right signal, hazards come on regardless.

Also is it possible to buy a bar end screw(OEM) without buying a new bar end? my dad stripped the screw(said it was slightly bent) so im gunna take off my left bar end till I figure that problem out.

Thanks in advance

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I don't know why I'm wasting my time on this, since you don't seem to listen to advice too well, but here's hoping.

Turn signals: Are there any signal lights that aren't working, front or rear? It's possible that one of them might have had their filament broken on the lowside. Some modern bikes, when they detect a bad bulb, they'll flash fast instead of the regular flash. From what i understand, the Ninja 250's don't have hazard light capability (all 4 lights flash at once) Could the relay have taken a hit?

That being said, if it's not an easy fix like replacing a bulb or relay, given the level of knowledge you seem to possess and my personal experiences taking down the plastics on my 600RR, I find it HIGHLY unlikely that you are going to tear down the fairings, find the problem, fix the problem, do proper damage inspection, and reassemble everything to your satisfaction on a bike that you have never worked on before in less than 2 hours. I'm not saying that to be snarky, I'm saying that because in all probability it's true.

If you're taking everything off after a crash, you should be checking for damage. Any bent or dented pieces of essential subsystems (engine, suspension, electrical, things like that) should be researched and replaced if needed. Scratched pieces and scuffed damage should be noted for future reference, especially if you intend to resell the bike at a later time.

Screws you should be able to get from a Kawi OEM part dealer. You might need to purchase the whole bar end as an assembly, but it's possible you could get just the screw.

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I don't know why I'm wasting my time on this, since you don't seem to listen to advice too well, but here's hoping.

Turn signals: Are there any signal lights that aren't working, front or rear? It's possible that one of them might have had their filament broken on the lowside. Some modern bikes, when they detect a bad bulb, they'll flash fast instead of the regular flash. From what i understand, the Ninja 250's don't have hazard light capability (all 4 lights flash at once) Could the relay have taken a hit?

That being said, if it's not an easy fix like replacing a bulb or relay, given the level of knowledge you seem to possess and my personal experiences taking down the plastics on my 600RR, I find it HIGHLY unlikely that you are going to tear down the fairings, find the problem, fix the problem, do proper damage inspection, and reassemble everything to your satisfaction on a bike that you have never worked on before in less than 2 hours. I'm not saying that to be snarky, I'm saying that because in all probability it's true.

If you're taking everything off after a crash, you should be checking for damage. Any bent or dented pieces of essential subsystems (engine, suspension, electrical, things like that) should be researched and replaced if needed. Scratched pieces and scuffed damage should be noted for future reference, especially if you intend to resell the bike at a later time.

Screws you should be able to get from a Kawi OEM part dealer. You might need to purchase the whole bar end as an assembly, but it's possible you could get just the screw.

The lights were like this b4 the wreck, im thinking the previous owner wired it wrong? all 4 lights flash when I hit the signal and the indicator blinks solid green(instead of half green)

I may have to get up a little earlier so i.have more time(like what lil sleep I get though) cuz I have to have the blinkers working b4 my skills test(I think?) Ive seen some DIY videos on taking off the fairings and installing flush mounts and integrated lights. I am not the greatest at wiring, but I do know my way around a diagram(although its b/w)

I may have to hold off.on.checking for dmg till another date(or pay someone to do it) if you think it will take too long for me to do it in my time frame. Also I will be doijg this by myaelf without any.kind of stand, so im hoping when I go to.get.the.fairings back on I wont hit too much of a snag.

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Part 92009 for bar end screw (or you could just match it up with something at home depot).

Seems like home depot/Lowes might be my first choice I suppose, if I cant find something ill just buy the OEM bolt. aslong as the width/threads are correct I can atleast grind a long bolt down to the length I need :)

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Your problem is voltage bleed between the right and left blinker banks through the indicator lamp on your gauge cluster. Easiest fix is to wire stock blinkers in parallel up front, wrap in foil and tape and hide inside fairings. Why you ask?

LED signals offer super low resistance. Your blinker system relies on resistance to function properly. In the absence of the resistance it wants, your blinkers go too fast, there's extra voltage, the gauge cluster indicator lamp is a bridge to another circuit, so it goes over there and lights them up. A more expensive option would to get some load resistors or a special LED blinker unit or maybe both. Wiring in a set of stock incandescent blinkers will supply the circuit with the resistance it needs to function.

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The turn signal fluid might be low. I'd check to make sure there's not a leak, because turn signal fluid leaks are one of the primary reasons for losing rear traction.

You can find blinker fluid here, they even added new products since last time I needed anything! http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=22

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The lights were like this b4 the wreck, im thinking the previous owner wired it wrong? all 4 lights flash when I hit the signal and the indicator blinks solid green(instead of half green)

I may have to get up a little earlier so i.have more time(like what lil sleep I get though) cuz I have to have the blinkers working b4 my skills test(I think?) Ive seen some DIY videos on taking off the fairings and installing flush mounts and integrated lights. I am not the greatest at wiring, but I do know my way around a diagram(although its b/w)

I may have to hold off.on.checking for dmg till another date(or pay someone to do it) if you think it will take too long for me to do it in my time frame. Also I will be doijg this by myaelf without any.kind of stand, so im hoping when I go to.get.the.fairings back on I wont hit too much of a snag.

So you were riding without turn signals? You must be an expert.

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The turn signal fluid might be low. I'd check to make sure there's not a leak, because turn signal fluid leaks are one of the primary reasons for losing rear traction.

:doh: this is the obvious answer...

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Your problem is voltage bleed between the right and left blinker banks through the indicator lamp on your gauge cluster. Easiest fix is to wire stock blinkers in parallel up front, wrap in foil and tape and hide inside fairings. Why you ask?

LED signals offer super low resistance. Your blinker system relies on resistance to function properly. In the absence of the resistance it wants, your blinkers go too fast, there's extra voltage, the gauge cluster indicator lamp is a bridge to another circuit, so it goes over there and lights them up. A more expensive option would to get some load resistors or a special LED blinker unit or maybe both. Wiring in a set of stock incandescent blinkers will supply the circuit with the resistance it needs to function.

I got some spare wires ill try first if its not miswired, ill try some foil and.see.how.that goes if new.wires dont fix it or.if its not miswired.

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20120420_085705.jpg relays

20120420_085656.jpg connectors

20120420_090005.jpg resisters

Kind of lost from here...

On that third pic I don't see resistors. I see wire, wrenches, broken mirror, pack of cigarettes and keys, but no resistors.

Find the hot wire and tap the resistor wire into it, or splice the resistor wire into the hot wire. How you do this is up to you, just understand that a) the resistor gets HOT, plan accordingly and b) if you fuck this up, you're going to be chasing wiring issues for a while.

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Got everything in place now except my resisters... Cant figure out where they go. If I get em on it should solve my problem completely... Oh well, guess getting atleast the rear signals working is better than no signals.

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20120420_104425.jpg

cant figure out where this goes :( came off when I took off the back left fairing. I dont see anything like thos on the right side. All the gaskets seem in place, just have no clue where.this big one goes.

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Just threw her back together, the gasket was the key hole seal =/ ill have to worry about the resisters later. I bought some disconnect pairs and crimped the wires to em and stuck em into the origional.relay connector.instead of.cutting.that off :) threw some tap in it and.tucked it under.the seat.

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