hey car audio bubbys info needed

[2talltim]

Just ordered a pair of kicker compVR's (got a sweet deal $130 for the pair)because I thought I blew my econo comp I have in my truck(now I think I just had a loose wire). I've never had dual voice coil subs before(I'm old skool knowlege) they are 4ohm voice coils and I wanna drop them down to 1 ohm, so correct me if I'm wrong but all I need to do is paralel all 4 voice coils together to acomplish this, am I correct?

plus question #2 I have a kicker DX 500.1 amp that at 1ohm is 500watts RMS and 1000watts max. Should this be sufficent for these 2 new subs? I just want sufficent not to hurt them not looking for optimum sound. The subs are rated at 400 RMS/800 peak each

Mainly reaching out to Josh but anyone with info is appreciated.

[nautical1]

For question #1; Yes.

For question #2; That amp will be fine, maybe a little under powered, but it should still satisfy you and give a nice "bump". What type of box are you planning to put these in?

[jayjie15]

I used to work at an electronics store and we commonly sold this package with the Kicker 750.1 amp and it worked out well. The above poster is right about it possibly being slightly under powered but it will def sound good. When I was into car audio I was a big fan of Kicker.

[QuikAccord]

Being under powered is fine as long you don't turn the gain way up on the amp. It's not a volume knob. Turning the gain up will increase distortion and clip the signal to the speakers. A lot of times this cannot be heard by many people. This is what causes subs to fail prematurely. I used to professionally install and tune car stereo systems.

[JStump]

Those compVRs are nice, lots of power from a small package. But if it were me I would probably upgrade the amp. If it were a single sub running at 400 RMS it would be great but since you are running 2, even if you max out the amp(which is a bad idea) you are still only diving those subs at 250w each instead of where you should be which is more around 300-350w. I would go with a 1000w rms if it were me but would recommend at least 700w. It really just depends on how you want it to sound and if you want to take advantage of the power compVRs can give you. I think I may even be running a 750 on my single compVR, just keep the gain turned down to a little under half and it sounds awesome.

I have always used amps that were more powerful than the sub because I don't like to max out the amp for 1 thing, and I think it sounds cleaner when the amp isn't working super hard for another. I would rather have clean sound than body panel shaking with a bunch of distortion so this works very well, but it can also shake the car a decent amount if I crank it up and it still will sound clean cranked up.

Edited July 14, 2012 by JStump

[rawlins87]

Just ordered a pair of kicker compVR's (got a sweet deal $130 for the pair)because I thought I blew my econo comp I have in my truck(now I think I just had a loose wire). I've never had dual voice coil subs before(I'm old skool knowlege) they are 4ohm voice coils and I wanna drop them down to 1 ohm, so correct me if I'm wrong but all I need to do is paralel all 4 voice coils together to acomplish this, am I correct?

plus question #2 I have a kicker DX 500.1 amp that at 1ohm is 500watts RMS and 1000watts max. Should this be sufficent for these 2 new subs? I just want sufficent not to hurt them not looking for optimum sound. The subs are rated at 400 RMS/800 peak each

Mainly reaching out to Josh but anyone with info is appreciated.

Yes tim, parallel the voice coils together than you can parallel the subs for a final 1ohm load.

The amp is kinda small. I always reccommend a larger amp that whats rated for the subs. The subs are a reactive load (even though its referrenced as a 1ohm load) it will hardly ever see or be 1ohm. Mostly higher because of box/impedance rise. Higher ohm load, more resistance less power= quiter. Might want to upgrade later.

Ive had several compVR's and as theire an entry level sub they are a great performer. I like the pair i had. The Qts of the subs is .527 so this sub will like sealed enclosures and small ported setups. 99% of the time i reccommend ported...this is one time i reccommend sealed. Sounded great. In order to combat your lower powered amplifier you can put the subs in a larger sealed box closer to the VAS of the sub (the amount of air when the sub will react like its free air). Getting closer to vas decreases the amount of power the sub can handle and should be more efficienty on a lower band level.

Feel free to ask anymore questions.

[rawlins87]

Being under powered is fine as long you don't turn the gain way up on the amp. It's not a volume knob. Turning the gain up will increase distortion and clip the signal to the speakers. A lot of times this cannot be heard by many people. This is what causes subs to fail prematurely. I used to professionally install and tune car stereo systems.

If your hearing distortion that audible to the ear you way distorted.

O-scope tuning is really the only way to be postively sure of no square waves. Other than that ears are perceptive and humans are inaccurate and tuning by hearing distortion is the old school method. I be glad when that dies along like most other old school methods

[QuikAccord]

Yes an o-scope is what I use to tune with. I have a hand held scope/DMM

[QuikAccord]

I also use test tone audio files and sinewave signal generators.

[DTM Brian]

I always reccommend a larger amp that whats rated for the subs.

Done!!!!

[rawlins87]

Done!!!!

Lol your amps large enough to tig aluminum.

Coming to power a small town near you...Brian lmao

[DTM Brian]

Lol your amps large enough to tig aluminum.

Coming to power a small town near you...Brian lmao

Sounds like a Myth Busters Episode waiting to happen.

[max power]

Yes tim, parallel the voice coils together than you can parallel the subs for a final 1ohm load.

The amp is kinda small. I always reccommend a larger amp that whats rated for the subs. The subs are a reactive load (even though its referrenced as a 1ohm load) it will hardly ever see or be 1ohm. Mostly higher because of box/impedance rise. Higher ohm load, more resistance less power= quiter. Might want to upgrade later.

Ive had several compVR's and as theire an entry level sub they are a great performer. I like the pair i had. The Qts of the subs is .527 so this sub will like sealed enclosures and small ported setups. 99% of the time i reccommend ported...this is one time i reccommend sealed. Sounded great. In order to combat your lower powered amplifier you can put the subs in a larger sealed box closer to the VAS of the sub (the amount of air when the sub will react like its free air). Getting closer to vas decreases the amount of power the sub can handle and should be more efficienty on a lower band level.

Feel free to ask anymore questions.

Look at the big brain on Professor Sound!

[2talltim]

Ok thanks for all the info guys, i would like to get a bigger amp but this one will have to do for now, really porb be more than ok for a while because im still rockin the factory head unit. I only buy stuff if i can get a sick deal on it. I will be putting these in a sealed box, its a off the shelf 1.6cubft(per sided) dual chamber box that i have sitting in my shed. i would like to build a spoted box eventually but that will be a winter project maybe. As far as this scope tuning this crap is new to me, they didnt have that back in my hay day, maybe if someone has the set up of can school me more for a case of suds would be awsome.

Im not new to car audio just out dated. Back in the day i had a ranger with the front of the bed and back of the cab cut out with 6 JL 12W6's in a huge ported box being pushed by 2 Orion 2150 amps, along with 2 alpine v12's pushin my 3 sets of infinity compnet highs. And clairon Pro audio with hide away eq. All my crap was top shelf stuff back then i had about $4500 inversted back in 94-96. I won a few SPL comptitions in the novice and amature class. Not really looking to get back to that level just have some bump in the trunk.

[2talltim]

oh yea another question just poped in to my head. My amp is rated at 500rms at 1ohm, and 250rms at 2 ohm. So it there any gain or disadvantage to running just one of my new subs at 2 ohm vs. both of them at 1 ohm.

[shadyone]

I'd stay at 1 ohm and both subs. Even 2 slightly underpowered subs are better for the average listener than 1 sub. I used to have 2 8" Kicker SoloBarics in HS. and I never found a set of 10" or 12" that sounded better. Love me some Kickers.

[2talltim]

I'd stay at 1 ohm and both subs. Even 2 slightly underpowered subs are better for the average listener than 1 sub. I used to have 2 8" Kicker SoloBarics in HS. and I never found a set of 10" or 12" that sounded better. Love me some Kickers.

the first system i had in my truck back in the day were 2 8" solobarics behind the seats with a RF punch100, people could not believe they were 8" till i showed them. Mine were the original solos when they first came out, i remeber waiting 2 months for them because i pre ordered them.

[rawlins87]

oh yea another question just poped in to my head. My amp is rated at 500rms at 1ohm, and 250rms at 2 ohm. So it there any gain or disadvantage to running just one of my new subs at 2 ohm vs. both of them at 1 ohm.

Your amp will be more efficient at 2ohms.

[2talltim]

Your amp will be more efficient at 2ohms.

True but will I get better/more sound out of the 2 sub set up at 1 ohm or 1 sub at 2 ohm?

[rawlins87]

in theory doubling the cone are is 3db gain

in theory doubling the power is a 3db gain

should be the same but i would bet the two will be louder

[2talltim]

but am i really doubling the power with one sub going from 500watts @ 1ohm to 250watts @ 2 ohm?