Any carpenters out there? I need help

[Jcarlson]

How do I fix this? I don't mean the gap between the two pieces of molding. I mean how do I get the top and bottom groves in the molding to line up when cut on an angle like that? I'm not a carpenter but I have half a clue.

This molding is at the top of my stairs. The piece on the left is horizontal to the second floor and the piece on the right is coming up the stairs.

Do I cut the horizontal piece at more of an angle down and to the left instead of on a 90, or what?

Any tips will be appreciated.

Thanks

Jim

[KZ900]

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Edited November 13, 2012 by KZ900

[jester3681]

The angle that the scrolled area of the molding meets the flat area needs to mirror the angle that the two pieces meet. Example (and it looks like this is the case): if the molding meets at +45 degrees, you need to cut the scrolled area to -45 degrees. The flat section will meet perpendicular to the floor, the scrolled section will meet at the opposite angle that the angled piece comes up - let the scrolled section of the horizontal piece extend out, then trim it to ~45 degrees. Notch the scrolled section of the angled piece to match. Make sense?

[jester3681]

Like this:

[KZ900]

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Edited November 13, 2012 by KZ900

[Jcarlson]

Jester - I think I got it. On the Horizontal piece, from the bottom groove to the top extend right 45, then on the piece coming up the stairs, from the bottom groov to the top also cut at 45 to the right. Basically the horizontal piece will have a tab and the bottom piece will have a notch. Right?

KZ900 - Yeah, I'm in Westerville, a suburb NE of Columbus. I see you're in tornado alley. Yep I have a 2006 Connie ZG1000 and I love it. I'm not crazy about how it chugs at low speeds and high gears, and yeah I have two CDA's as well (damn near broke my leg each time) but otherwise it's great. Fast as hell and smooth as silk. Twist the throttle at 75 and you're at 95 no problem. You almost don't even notice.

You got one too?

[KZ900]

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Edited November 13, 2012 by KZ900

[serpentracer]

when in doubt, use a t bevel to get your angle. one of the most used tools i own.

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Hand-Tools-Measure-Layout-Tools-Marking-Layout-tools/h_d1/N-5yc1vZc24a/R-100156737/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051

they're both going to have to be cut at the same angle or you will always have an offset in them.

I could show you how to find the exact degree your stairs are but it doesn't matter. use a t bevel instead. just lay it flat on the floor as much as possible or draw a level line on the wall and lay the other end on the stair's side and take that to your saw and adjust the blade to match.

Edited September 29, 2012 by serpentracer

[Bubba]

22 deg will close, but most stair treads are typically 7/9 (rise/run) with some being as steep as 7/8 (I think that's max by code). Not to say your stairs aren't oddball, but if it was me, I'd cut a couple of pieces of scrap and get the exact angle by trial-and-error. Start at a little less than 22-22 and go from there.

[marlboro man]

I know that 9out of 10 house I do stairs are 42deg or a bit less so 1/2 of that is 21deg

[Gixxus Christ!]

It's cut at a compound angle, one on the miter, one on the angle of the staircase to the landing. Aside from trial and error + putty, you need to trig the angle of the staircase to the landing, subtract it from 180 and apply it to the mating board. I'm a machinist, not a carpenter, but that's how I would solve this problem.

[ohiomike]

Yep, find out the exact angle the stairs are set at and split the degrees and cut the two pieces at that angle. Try a couple of scrap pieces first to get the exact cut.