RHill Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 If you had your trackbike to do over again what would your order of upgrades be(in order)?Right now I'm thinking:R6 thottle tube($12....why not? from my videos I chop throttle on turn exit from right handers...ergonomic issue(i'm fat))Springs front and rear(100% this is the starting point)Shock oil refresh front and rearPossibly clipoons and rearsetsyeah, the list is short, but I dont get paid jack shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CephasGT Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 If I was going to do it over again, I'd get different bodywork and a different windscreen, for sure. Wouldn't change much else, really. Maybe a different seat as well, but I'm working on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J_Copeland Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 I should have kept my 675 ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaDoc Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 Garage space and trailer then I am gonna get into track days for sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue03636 Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 Suspension, suspension, suspensionIn that order Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helmutt Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 I've been told by numerous guys to start with suspension setup/changes, then ergo-centric trinkets to help with your form/technique, then add power if you want it. Gearing and such varies so its something you're always changing a bit here and there at different tracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RHill Posted October 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 I should have kept my 675 !Tired of being called a squid on the gsxr? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J_Copeland Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 Tired of being called a squid on the gsxr?Yep ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkow97 Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 power is the last thing anyone needs. fast guys on SV's reiterate this point routinely.upgrade order depends on what you've already got, and your skill level. In many cases, parts that crash well (i.e. case covers, bodywork, etc.) that may keep you riding instead of spending money on repairs might be the best initial upgrade.seat time is still the best upgrade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helmutt Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 Exactly, last on the list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRMN8TR Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 I haven't done anything to my bike other than a mandatory steering stabilizer, and a quick turn throttle. Both of those have been good upgrades. I don't really consider the track bodywork a "mod" but if you have plans to race that should be on your list. I also hacked up my stock exhaust to get rid of the restrictions (a free mod) and added a free tune with TuneECU. Another thing to add would be a radiator guard. If it weren't for the fact I was close to home and had a spare 675 in my garage, a small pinhole from a kicked up rock would have ended my weekend very early. The next things are going to be suspension, followed by some parts like clip-ons that will help in the event of a crash. I may add a slip on, but only for the noise. And some kind of brake pad upgrade because after 2.5 seasons of trackdays the stock ones are finally shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wantahertzdonut Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 Get any tires that aren't BT20's. Riding with those things undermined any confidence I may have had in the bike. Cornering was terrifying at times! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RVTPilot Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 Suspension, suspension, suspensionIn that orderThat's my plan this offseason. As much as I want to do some other things, this I think will help me out the most from where the bike is right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1crusher Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 It would help if you stay in the gas longer and just brake harder. Silly noob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkason Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 If you had your trackbike to do over again what would your order of upgrades be(in order)?Right now I'm thinking:R6 thottle tube($12....why not? from my videos I chop throttle on turn exit from right handers...ergonomic issue(i'm fat))Springs front and rear(100% this is the starting point)Shock oil refresh front and rearPossibly clipoons and rearsetsyeah, the list is short, but I dont get paid jack shit.This is what I did to my bike and the basics aren't cheap. I would do the exact same thing over again too. I'm 240lbs and springs/ suspension service made a world of difference. Sonic springs are $79. Ruben at 35 motorsports hooked it up on the rear shock service and spring. $12 throttle tube is a must. The bike had stomp grips on it when I got it too.I had a dyno tune after I installed my PCIII due to a flat spot at 7500rpm. That was money well spent as the powerband was smoother and much more friendly. You really don't need more than that. Get a set of good sport tires like the Dunny Q2's or the Michelin Power Pures and ride the wheels off that Gixxer! Also save your $ because you'll be going through a lot of rubber as you get faster.Optional for the Gixxer, depending on year, is shimming up the rear shock and flushing the forks with the triple trees to raise the front end. The Gixxers weren't laid out the best from the factory and this keeps the bike a bit more on its nose for a quicker tip in and more stable in a straight line. There are fork extender caps for $200 but I'll wait until I'm in advanced to start worrying about it.Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 This is what I did to my bike and the basics aren't cheap. I would do the exact same thing over again too. I'm 240lbs and springs/ suspension service made a world of difference. Sonic springs are $79. Ruben at 35 motorsports hooked it up on the rear shock service and spring. $12 throttle tube is a must. The bike had stomp grips on it when I got it too.I had a dyno tune after I installed my PCIII due to a flat spot at 7500rpm. That was money well spent as the powerband was smoother and much more friendly. You really don't need more than that. Get a set of good sport tires like the Dunny Q2's or the Michelin Power Pures and ride the wheels off that Gixxer! Also save your $ because you'll be going through a lot of rubber as you get faster.Optional for the Gixxer, depending on year, is shimming up the rear shock and flushing the forks with the triple trees to raise the front end. The Gixxers weren't laid out the best from the factory and this keeps the bike a bit more on its nose for a quicker tip in and more stable in a straight line. There are fork extender caps for $200 but I'll wait until I'm in advanced to start worrying about it.Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2Correction. Raising the front is not putting the GSXR on it's nose. The idea is you are adding trail which the Zooks need badly. Stability isn't the issue. You raise/add trail for handling. The feedback and the ability to get the bike to make direction changes especially while on its side is key and why you need to do this.As you get faster, you will notice this. Early stage track day riders typically will not toice this, but if the correct geo numbers are put into place, it is a world of difference.From the OP's sig, I suspect that he has a pre-2004 GSXR and will need to do the old school raise the rear, drop the front based on the chassis... If he tracks the 04 like in his pic, he needs to raise the front and use spacers to raise the rear slightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RHill Posted October 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 Suspension, suspension, suspensionIn that orderI have to do something about suspension, bottoming the forks at Nelson all day. I'd bet it was under braking, but later in the day I was trying to be smoother on the brakes and fade it out as I was leaning in....zip tie was still buried on the bottom casting of the fork. One thing I'm concerned with, if I re-spring but don't re-valve, will the stronger spring blow right through the rebound dampening?power is the last thing anyone needs. fast guys on SV's reiterate this point routinely.upgrade order depends on what you've already got, and your skill level. In many cases, parts that crash well (i.e. case covers, bodywork, etc.) that may keep you riding instead of spending money on repairs might be the best initial upgrade.seat time is still the best upgrade.I have no interest in power upgrade at this point, I'd rather put that money toward more days at the track and tires. I do need to pick up some spares....begging around for a brake lever at PIRC sucked.I haven't done anything to my bike other than a mandatory steering stabilizer, and a quick turn throttle. Both of those have been good upgrades. I don't really consider the track bodywork a "mod" but if you have plans to race that should be on your list. I also hacked up my stock exhaust to get rid of the restrictions (a free mod) and added a free tune with TuneECU. Another thing to add would be a radiator guard. If it weren't for the fact I was close to home and had a spare 675 in my garage, a small pinhole from a kicked up rock would have ended my weekend very early. The next things are going to be suspension, followed by some parts like clip-ons that will help in the event of a crash. I may add a slip on, but only for the noise. And some kind of brake pad upgrade because after 2.5 seasons of trackdays the stock ones are finally shot.I'm keeping an eye out for used track bodywork. I doubt I could break even selling my street stuff and buying new, so it is staying on for the moment. I just ebay searched for radiators for my 05.....I'll be making up a guard for the radiator next time the fairings are off.It would help if you stay in the gas longer and just brake harder. Silly noob.You are right The last couple sessions at Nelson I tried to get away from straight line braking, setting up, and finally turning in....instead setting up while braking and fading off the brakes while leaning in. Not really braking harder, but a little later. This is what I did to my bike and the basics aren't cheap. I would do the exact same thing over again too. I'm 240lbs and springs/ suspension service made a world of difference. Sonic springs are $79. Ruben at 35 motorsports hooked it up on the rear shock service and spring. $12 throttle tube is a must. The bike had stomp grips on it when I got it too.I had a dyno tune after I installed my PCIII due to a flat spot at 7500rpm. That was money well spent as the powerband was smoother and much more friendly. You really don't need more than that. Get a set of good sport tires like the Dunny Q2's or the Michelin Power Pures and ride the wheels off that Gixxer! Also save your $ because you'll be going through a lot of rubber as you get faster.Optional for the Gixxer, depending on year, is shimming up the rear shock and flushing the forks with the triple trees to raise the front end. The Gixxers weren't laid out the best from the factory and this keeps the bike a bit more on its nose for a quicker tip in and more stable in a straight line. There are fork extender caps for $200 but I'll wait until I'm in advanced to start worrying about it.Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2Correction. Raising the front is not putting the GSXR on it's nose. The idea is you are adding trail which the Zooks need badly. Stability isn't the issue. You raise/add trail for handling. The feedback and the ability to get the bike to make direction changes especially while on its side is key and why you need to do this.As you get faster, you will notice this. Early stage track day riders typically will not toice this, but if the correct geo numbers are put into place, it is a world of difference.From the OP's sig, I suspect that he has a pre-2004 GSXR and will need to do the old school raise the rear, drop the front based on the chassis... If he tracks the 04 like in his pic, he needs to raise the front and use spacers to raise the rear slightly.I'm running the 05. I picked up some washers to raiser the rear at Nelson, but they are too big on the outside and need ground down. I'd like to do it at the track so I feel what the change does from one session to the next. The forks are already set flush, so my trail is actually worse at the moment. I read about the fork cap extenders, but everyone running them seems to be 06+, didn't even see any available for my model?Nice tip on the sonic springs! those are $35 less than the racetech's! Wish they had rear springs to go along too.I want to correct my body positioning and get the suspension in the right range, because I really think that is hurting me on tire wear. After basically 10 sessions at PIRC and 10 at Nelson, my rear Q2 is to the point where I have to flip it or it will be toast on the right in another day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkason Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 This saved my ass on tire wear. This is the mobile link so if it doesn't work Google Dave Moss Tire Wear and there us a 104 minute video that goes through all types of dampening, spring, pressure, and geometry issues that cause tires to be eaten up. It took me some time but mine is dialed in so my tire wears perfectly. Plus as a noob I'm too inexperienced to tell what my bike is doing sometimes, but I can read a tire and learn now.http://m.ustream.tv/recorded/6516891?rmalang=en_US Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moto-Brian Posted October 6, 2012 Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 I have to do something about suspension, bottoming the forks at Nelson all day. I'd bet it was under braking, but later in the day I was trying to be smoother on the brakes and fade it out as I was leaning in....zip tie was still buried on the bottom casting of the fork. One thing I'm concerned with, if I re-spring but don't re-valve, will the stronger spring blow right through the rebound dampening?I have no interest in power upgrade at this point, I'd rather put that money toward more days at the track and tires. I do need to pick up some spares....begging around for a brake lever at PIRC sucked.I'm keeping an eye out for used track bodywork. I doubt I could break even selling my street stuff and buying new, so it is staying on for the moment. I just ebay searched for radiators for my 05.....I'll be making up a guard for the radiator next time the fairings are off.You are right The last couple sessions at Nelson I tried to get away from straight line braking, setting up, and finally turning in....instead setting up while braking and fading off the brakes while leaning in. Not really braking harder, but a little later. I'm running the 05. I picked up some washers to raiser the rear at Nelson, but they are too big on the outside and need ground down. I'd like to do it at the track so I feel what the change does from one session to the next. The forks are already set flush, so my trail is actually worse at the moment. I read about the fork cap extenders, but everyone running them seems to be 06+, didn't even see any available for my model?Nice tip on the sonic springs! those are $35 less than the racetech's! Wish they had rear springs to go along too.I want to correct my body positioning and get the suspension in the right range, because I really think that is hurting me on tire wear. After basically 10 sessions at PIRC and 10 at Nelson, my rear Q2 is to the point where I have to flip it or it will be toast on the right in another day.Actually, no need to cap extenders on 04/05 models. Flush on forks is correct. How many MM is the washer stack? We only used a stack to keep the ride height threads in as much as possible on the shock. I will try and find eye to eye and you should be close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RHill Posted October 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2012 Mike, I've watched hours of the Dave Moss videos, but I never came across that specific video. Thank you.The washers I picked up are 3mm thick, so it will either be 3,6 or 9. All the info I could find pointed toward 6 being the most common stack size, but most of the info was for the 06/07 model. I haven't put any in yet. Planning on grinding them, trail fitting, and installing one at a time at the track to see what it does. I am a little concerned about putting the stack in though. Since my front spring is too light and diving under braking, would the washer stack(extra ride height in the rear) give me too much trail and make the bike unstable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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