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Nope, wont take it down. R6 was a freaking blast.

That's my bike in post #1. Just joined,been 'lurking' here as a guest for quite a while,since it was posted for me I figure it would be proper to actually join. I'm 69,retired,been biking since 1971. Always orientals,1971 Honda CL350,then 1974 Honda CB550,then 1980 Suzuki 750E. Had the 750 for about 25 years. Don't intend to leave motorcycling for forever,just too much else currently occupies my time. My 98 Camaro Z28,do a lot of travelling with it,firearms & reloading,enjoy going to the range and paper-punching. It's also listed on Cleveland Racing and Columbus Racing. I've added this to those sites' threads. "Since there hasn't been any interest,I am open to offers. Don't need to sell it,but since I don't use it much,be good to pass it on to someone that would ACTUALLY use it." Hope it was OK to also use this post as an 'intro'.

My subs and amp can EASILY overcome my highs (6.5 in the door panels, tweeters in the A-pillar area) so I didn't bother much with the max gain beyond cranking it up to keep the remote gain control in the middle of the range. I SHOULD set the gain on mt high's correctly, though. I think I'll whip out the scope and see what I came up with. Since I'm at work, and the A/C is keeping it cool in here, and I have all my tools here...

So I sorta went online and ordered like $250 worth of car audio stuff I don't need because = kid in candy store. Sometimes you gotta upgrade.

Yeah it sounds like you are pulling too much of a load on the amplifier, and the cheaper the amp the quicker it will go into protection when it doesn't like the impedance mismatch. I'd look into the sub impedance and voice coil setup as stated above and compare it to what the amp can handle. Anything out of spec and all you will get is protection mode. I bought myself a nice Alpine headunit a few years back, with the imprint calibration hardware, and shelled out a few bucks for one of the Alpine monoblock PDX amps...... Man, talk about sound quality. Paired up with one of the 12" Dayton Audio Reference subs. I'll never need to buy car audio equipment again.

Wheres the switch for them on the VFR?

It's always the last thing you check....

Ok I just discovered what some of my tire problems may have been this year and late last year. And I take everything back I said about my $4 HF gage. Went out to the garage to load the bicycles up for a ride in the morning and decided to check the tires with my new gadget. Filled them up to 50 lbs and love the way the new gage works other than I think I need to thread lock the threads on the chuck pieces. Curious on how accuate the new gage id I get out my old tusty HF gage out of my bike box. The HF gage reads 45 lbs. At first I was thinking the new one was shit so I got out a selection of pencile gages and a digital slime gage. They all were reading real close to the new one the digital slime one being balls on what the new one said. Now like I stated above I have tested my HF gage against a high end gage my uncle uses on his drag car so I ran down the road to his house and tested them all. The new one was balls on with his, the digital slime gage was with in half a lb and my former trusty HF gage was reading 10% low at all pressure ranges. What I guessing is when it was newish the HF one was accurate but over the years the springs or seals or what ever on the inside has worn and it's lost its accuracy. So in the trash it went. Now many if you know over the last year or so I've been bitch ing about tire wear on my bike. Any any kind d of under inflation on that big heavy turd will accelerate tire wear. And at 42psi on ny HF gage I was accually running around 37 or 38 which explains ALOT. Lesson learned you get what you pay for and never assume one tool is reading correctly all the time.

photos?

a little over a month ago, i picked up a 2015 Mustang GT Performance pack with factory Recaros. since then i have been modifying the hell out of it. this list thus far.. got the windows tinted first and then the big mods started rolling in.. BMR Delrin IRS Cradle bushings BMR Poly Diff Bushings Steeda Poly Trans mount bushings Steeda Shifter Base bracket and bushing Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs alignment from Best One (thanks to my friend Derek, he got the car set up perfectly) all fluids changed out to Royal Purple JHR Braided High Volume Clutch line Stainless Works 1 7/8" primary into 3" collector long tube headers, no cats MBRP 3" Race Cat back thats where she stands right now. Saturday though is when it really starts getting fun when i install.. Procharger HO kit with D1SC head unit with 9psi pulley T-Bolt clamp upgrade FRRP 55lb injectors NGK 6510 plugs KB boost-a-pump autometer sport comp boost gauge in a roush A/C vent pod Dyno Brian from dynotune motorsports wil be over saturday night to put a base tune on the car, and it goes on the dyne the following saturday. The car should make around 650RWHP with this setup. but we shall see once it hits the rollers. here are some pics of the progress.

+1 For Dyno Tune.... Wait a minute.... Thats me.