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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/06/2018 in Posts
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That's the sales tactic I intend to take. I'm just an old gray bearded guy that just rides on the weekends. Don't be a sucka2 points
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2 points
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My bike is a 2012 cb1000r (not the rr, it's the naked bike). I often have charging problems with the bike that I can't figure out. I looked on Honda forums and it seems to be the general consensus that if the bike battery is not exactly fully charged, the bike will not start. This model is apparently very sensitive. I don't know much about charging systems, but I know people replace the stator and RR on VFRs to solve these type of issues, so I'm wondering if that might solve my issues. The bike is kept on a battery tender at all times. If I pull it off fresh in the morning and ride 6 miles to the gas station it usually is fine to start after filling up. However, if the bike is off the tender for any period of time then I have issues. Issues only present on first ride of the day. If I can make it to the gas station and get it started again after, it will be fine to start and stop all day. Even had it at the drag strip which is constant starting and stopping. Distance from gas station isn't far, so I thought maybe it didn't have time to charge so I rode 20 miles to a gas station and got stranded. The bike was off the tender for 8hr before I left home that day. It's to the point now that I have no confidence to ride it because I always break down and have to go buy a new battery and install it at the gas station... The bike won't bump, but it's probably just me. Never any hills around and I'm not nimble or coordinated enough to push a bike 10 mph and then jump on it lol Honestly, I love the bike and it's semi rare, so I'd like to hold onto it, but I just won't ride it anymore because it always breaks down. Can someone point me in the direction of any upgrades I can do to the electrical system? I've been googling but I can't find anything for my bike. My options seem to be replace the battery once or twice per year, or just buy AAA and accept that I'm going to get stranded somewhere multiple times per year, which limits the distance I can ride because its expensive to tow a bike lol Maybe I'll just ride it into a lake. Piece of shit. Any advice appreciated. I miss riding but have a wedding coming up and can't afford a new bike at this time. Eventually I'm going to grab a gen 2 vmax, but I picture the Honda collecting dust until I die either way because I'm just too attached to it to get rid of it, even if it never runs right lol... At least it's pretty to look at haha1 point
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I have a new to me bike, just bought it today. CBR will be for sale sometime this year after I get around to washing it. I hope to get back to riding a lot more this year, now I have to with a new bike.1 point
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1 point
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I’m ready to ride I don’t care if you trailer down ride down or what But the slab sucks .Every time I’ve gotten on the slab it seems to suck and take longer There’s many roads that are just as good As the gap in between here and there1 point
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If it's in the affordable sport bike range price I be getting one since I been following talks about the tech driving behind it for some time. This will be safer and deliver the same sensation of riding and I am quite sure in capable hands outside most bikes and riders. Now like everything evolution brings people will be thrashing it, abs, traction control wheelie control etc etc, as years go by it just becomes the norm. Is it killing pure soul of motorcycling, very well it could be. But I don't think any one in their right mind would want to ride the old school widow maker race bikes and would rather have fun and go back to family. This bike may not be perfect next step, but logical next step to make motorcycling safer. Motorcycling is not defined by the brand, the engine, the suspension etc etc. this bike might prove that it doesn't even have to be on 2 wheels. it's just a feeling, and as long as it's not affected by a technology advance that adds another dimension of wheel for superior grip and not kill it. I would take it. You know in winter you will be riding in your mind just enjoying that swaying gliding winding fluidly speeding through twisties. Wind on your face, sensation of speed raw, adrenaline kicking, tipping in and out and seeing everything around you and being part of it, rather than being separated from it by being inside a cage. Travel a lot and enjoy the company, mates, journey and destination. This can deliver it safely. That's all motorcycling feeling to me is. Still got lean angle 45 but with nearly twice the grip and will be fun to drift through the gap. Will be easier and safer to tackle fire roads. Back end looks like any fz 9 and will take bags easy and front end narrower than a tourer. Cruise control upright and sitting back, slabs won't be bad either. They did not spice it up with fancy stuff to keep cost low, but still if north of 20k I would skip for used ones to pop up. If in 15k range sign me up for early adoption just to be part of evolution.1 point
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Was going to recommend a Tahoe till I read the second post. I love mine and 8 to 9 year old units can be had for $15,000ish. It's been the perfect family ride. But you said small and that it ain't.1 point
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One more thing, Ive seen this burn more people on bike trips than any other thing. Don't go at all if every dime you have to spend is allocated. YOU NEED EMERGENCY FUNDS. Have cash, credit card or any other funds in reserve to get you home if your bike can't. If you need need emergency repairs, need to rent a uhaul or even need to buy a bus or plane ticket home. Always come financially prepared for anything. Can't believe how many people have gone on this trip or other trips and end up needing to bum money for gas or food money or have no plan on if shit hits the fan.1 point
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@flashesbuck come on down not all of us are stoners that think you are not a good rider (is that enough smileys to know I'm half kidding around?) Here is the story, first and foremost make sure your equipment is in tip top order especially tires and brakes and ppe but really all your ducks need to be in row. Second and equally important "ALWAYS, RIDE YOUR RIDE". That includes all miles for this trip including the ones getting there. Plan your trip with what ever you want to do ..BUT. Always have a way to opt out or and alt. plan. If your tired, STOP. If your over your head on a technical road, slow down. Shit happens and time tables get fucked and the last thing you need is to feel your on a set deadline to get some where. Same goes for the roads down around the gap they are a different beast than stuff up here but ANYONE can ride them just not at the paces some of us do. If you have to do half the speed limit to be safe, do it. Just keep they guy that just rode up behind you in mind at the next turn out or strait. If you give yourself plenty of time and don't have the mind set that you are going to "slay the dragon" you will be fine. And if someone invites you along on their journey, rules need to be laid out and they should be informed of what you are comfortable with. My wife may be taking her bike and she has ridden less than 800 miles in the last 2 years and 600 of that was one trip. I have no fears of her going down there and getting in over her head because I know she's a smart rider that could care less what pace she's riding at or what time the clock says. I'll take a smart rider over experience any day. Obviously a smart experienced rider is the perfect scenario. but even a stupid experienced rider is dangerous.1 point
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1 point
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@jacobhawkins Yeah it rained lightly most of the morning - one of the morning sessions, it was only me and the coach on the track. Some of the guys in my novice group had slicks, I can understand why they sat it out. It dried out in the afternoon, then it was on! Coach noted my front rotors were the right color. Purple. That old Kaw was heavy and fast:).1 point
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I have found the Coleman version of Frog Togs to be much better. More forgiving, and just all around better. But this may be just me1 point
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Gonna leave it off the battery tender and check it again later too... The battery is brand new and the bike seems to be okay when it's got a new battery in it1 point
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I left it running this whole time... Now charging at 13.28 and spikes to 14.2 under throttle and then back down to 13.21 point
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Bike is fresh off the tender and the battery has less than 100 miles on it Idles at 14.44 and nothing happens under throttle. It was slower than usual to start... Didn't turn over slow, just turned over longer than usual before firing. Not enough that it'd concern me on most vehicles, but slower than usual for this one... I'd be hesitant to go very far today1 point
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I'll dig out the multimeter and get some reading and post back up later. Thanks for the suggestion of the flywheel, I wouldn't have thought about that. I can't believe I can't find any "upgrades" for these components... Should have bought the RR instead (actually should have got an fz1 instead)1 point
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Battery is only a few months old.. 11k miles I'm on battery #3 It doesn't really touch anything... I know nothing about bikes really, don't even know if I'm checking the right shit, but I'm pretty sure it's this module after looking online... Do you know? If it's this component, it's hot as fuck... Sorry to be so inept, let me know if I'm looking at the wrong thing0 points
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