copperhead

why the hell does that thing even have a carb? The 4.0 jeep motors have been fuel injected since the early to mid 80's, if not earlier.

I could be wrong, but I believe it is Cubic Feet/Minute. The higher the rating, the more flow.

I talked to the guy, he wants me to bring the fenders down for him to look at, but he's guessing around $800/each. This guy does glasse on the side as a hobby, he owns a construction business. This means, that it will take time to get this done, but he puts effort and care into what he does. If you have any doubts, I can show you the drag bike he has sitting in the front of his building. What I'm thinking is, lets see what everything else is going to cost, and depending on how far under budget we are, you may be able to get one of the fenders replaced now, and the other one after the grassroots competition.

"Oh no, he's gonna kill me!!"

I already told you that I know a guy. And in fact, I might be in his area today, so I'll try and stop by his shop to talk to him.

Didn't someones cat get killed by an Apex seal about a year ago?

I was heading south on 315 just after turning off of 270, when i noticed an electronic sign that said "Speed Limit 65 - Strictly Enforced" I didn't see any police between there and my exit, but it was 3:30 am. I'm not sure if that sign means that the road is going to be more patrolled, or if it is just an attempt at scaring people into slowing down, but either way I suggest against going overly fast through there, at least during the daytime, until we figure out what's going on.

you can get a set of steelies and snow tires for the same price all-season tires cost, and they are far more effective in the snow. You said that you have a good set of summer tires - I would suggest running those until the threat of snow, then switch to snow tires mounted on the cheapest set of wheels you can find. My snow tire/steelie combo just may be sporting some spreewell hubcaps this winter btw, snowtires generally go for $50/each, unless you go for the Blizzacks, but a snow tire is a snow tire. At the very least, put a set on your drive wheels.

sand paper start with a rough grit, and if you want to make them shiny again, slowly work up to wet sanding. 100 grit, 400 grit, 400 grit wet sand, 800 grit wet sand, 1000 grit wet sand, 1500 grit wet sand, 2000 grit wet sand but that's only if you want them shiny. If you just want the paint off, use something between 100 and 400 grit

Cycle Search I may be able to get their number later on, but they are probably in the phone book. I think they have a website too

I could be wrong, but I believe that law was changed in the past year or so.

assuming the body and frame are solid, and it runs good, that sounds like a pretty decent price on a 4x4. Unless you plan on hauling massive amounts of shit, I'd suggest staying away from such a big SUV. Remember current gas prices....

the alarm brain was under one of the seats of my 85 300ZX. You may want to check there, although there's always a good chance that it might be somewhere else on a different model. Worth checking out, though

hail damage....ewwww...... preferred way would probably to get a new hood. As for the roof.....i dunno, maybe try pulling the headliner and using a block of wood and a rubber mallet. Just be carefull that you arent punching the metal up. Filler isn't always that bad of an idea, we use it all the time at the shop to cover up rough spots before laying down primer. Get something to apply it with so it will go down smooth, thats important. Try finding the shit that you have to mix with hardener. I would highly suggest going to a paint store and getting good stuff (what we use says Icing on the side of the bottle, not sure of the brand). Sand down the area that you will be filling, and the surrounding areas with 320 grit sandpaper. Apply the filler, and once it's dry, sand it back down so its even and you can't feel any kind of an edge between the filler and the original surface. You DO NOT need to sand down to bare metal though, just scuff it up good. Then, just slap down some paint and some clear. Don't be surprised if this ends up being a lot harder than you anticipated, or if shit doesn't turn out right. I will tell you that it takes a LOT of time and effort to get any good with bodywork. I'm still learning more every day, and i've been working at my shop for a month now. I was just lucky enough to get to work for one of the best painters around.

should be able to just push it out from the inside. Reinstallation is a bit trickier. Put a thin piece of string inside the weatherstrip, and gradually pull it out to get the weatherstrip to jump over the lip on the inside of the truck so that it will seal right. If you would like some help, PM me. Or, my cell phone number should be in my away message on AIM. AIM screenname = copperhead035

i havent been able to test it yet, and the guy that owns it is a dipshit, so right now it could be anything wrong with it, i just dont know yet

I may be getting a Bombardier Sea-Doo that does not run. The guy that has it does not know what's wrong with it, but claims its blown up. Can anyone here troubleshoot those things, and and help me fix it? I don't know much about marine engines. I think it is an 800cc, and it's a 2 cylinder thanks

might need some left handed sidecuts, too

dude, there is no way in HELL you can do that on your own. You've GOTTA take it to a dealer, they are the only people with the right tools to do it. But, if you do decide to do it on your own, you've gotta help us out by writing up an in-depth tech article, with 5 pictures of every step

any auto parts store should have some sitting around. Just check and make sure it looks long enough before you put it in

sounds like blue oval syndrome to me...

find a wiring diagram and snip the power wire?

water in the exhaust shouldnt make that much difference, i would think. did you try all new cap/wires/plugs? have you taken the cap off at all? try wiping the inside clean with a soft towel. it sounds to me like you're either missing spark or fuel. pull the fuel line off the engine and try turning it over, to see if it's pushing fuel. also try pulling the plugs, and while holding onto the wire, rest the end that sparks against the engine block and have someone turn it over to see if the plugs are sparking. Only pull one plug at a time past that, i dunno....change the fuel filter? good luck

Mark, you've got a PM feel free to moderate this into oblivion once you see it

compact trucks are generally already rated at 1/2 ton. That rating is just there to keep the manufacturer out of trouble in case something breaks, but in reality compact trucks will easily do a half ton, and fullsize trucks will do much more than they are rated for. I've heard of compact trucks of any brand hauling a ton of gravel at a time. Takes a while to get it down the road, but it can do it. Either way, it wouldn't take much to strengthen it up. Stiffer springs, heavy duty shocks, good brakes and it will be fine. A bigger engine would definately help, and i would hope that it has a manual transmission. Tell you're friend to learn how to match gears and not use the clutch once he's already moving, and he won't have any trouble pulling heavy loads. Only thing i don't like about using a truck with a manual in it for pulling is trying to pull a boat out of water. I usually just spin. Wait, I usually just spin with an auto, too....