c7fx

2009 R6 I just decided that I'm going to part out my last race bike. Its the bike I crashed at Mid-Ohio 2011. Surprisingly it did a lot better than me. It was pulled out of storage and fired up as if it ran an hour ago. I plan to sell the parts that are easy to remove first but it all will go. The bike has a clear tittle. Some bits of interest Ohlins TTX shock sprung for 190lb rider 900.00SOLD Ohlins 20mm kit in the front Pitbull damper 300.00sold woodcraft rearset standard shift 250.00sold woodcraft frame sliders 40.00sold LeoVince full Ti exhaust corsa 1000.00sold Reflashed ECU from Jettuning 300.00 Power Commander V 150.00sold I havent decided on all the prices yet but this will get the ball rolling.

I agree carb dip will swell rubber so will some sprays thats why I said to watch out. Best thing to do is to separate all the rubber parts and clean with soap and water if need be. Some people think spraying carb cleaner down the hole will fix everything and thats what I was warning against. Not saying thats what you would do. I have had great success with carbs that have sat for decades with the Yamaha product which was just an example. I have soaked jets overnight that looked brand new in the morning. True pilot jets work mostly off idle to 1/4 throttle and overlap with the needle. I have seen many bikes that the owner adjusted the idle up to get the bike to run because the pilot was bad. They basically adjusted the pilot out of the equation and are running off the needle. Easily dx when blipping the throttle and it hovers at say 4-5k for a few seconds then drops back to an idle. What he describes sounds more of a needle adjustment issue maybe a little too rich and needs to drop the needle a position or just dirty carb/bad plug if it ran perfect last year and now this. CrazyskullCrusherI don't doubt your wrenching ability just offering a different point of view I have owned a few Honda 600's F2-F3's and 900RR's and I will say that the carbs do not play nice when they get dirty and it doesn't take much sometimes.

Pilot jets are for idling. If it doesn't idle or when you rev it and the throttle hangs before dropping back to an idle. That would be a pilot jet. Most likely the needle is not in the right position or you have lots of crap around the needle and the main. Cleaning is a good idea also changing the plugs and filter since your pulling everything off. Watch what you clean with. Yamaha has a great water based carb cleaner that the parts soak in. Using carb cleaner can and will swell rubber parts like gaskets to 3 times their normal size. So watch what parts get cleaned with which cleaner. The muffin pans are a great idea also take notes on how many turns the screws are in. (count turns till they are lightly seated don't force them in. Also does the bike have a slip on and did it get jetted for pipe?

And buy a water powered back up. Pumps 2 gallons for every gallon and city water usually never goes out in a thunderstorm

Thats a good price for rims and rotors

look for How To Uninstall McAfee Antivirus

I have that same problem...but only happened after my last ride

I would rock that if I could

yep old school and cheap

Go to a truck supply store and find ratchet straps that attach to the e-track. They also have many other options that attach directly to the track

You guys did a great job. Tell everyone I said hi and hope everyone stays safe!

This is no lie I had two 14's in my arm when I crashed. I think it was a game to see who could drop the bigger IV.

I have had two full race. I wouldn't own one for a street bike but as a race bike nothing better. Best mod on the newer bikes is to reflash the ECU

vultures

Taken!!!!! Thanks Steve!

I have two 8 foot pieces of e track Galvanized. I live in Strongsville anyone close that wants them give me a pm.

I would just get the R/R they have been bad on the 900 for many years. Big problem is they create a lot of heat and have been known to burn up the harness near the R/R. when replacing the R/R best advice is to apply heat-sink paste between the R/R and the aluminum subframe to help with the cooling. This has been a problem with all the 900's and VFR's of same years Also super easy to replace 2 I think 10mm bolts and unplug

yep

sold!!!!!!!!!!

easy to remove. Sharp scissors cut and pull out with a set of tweezers. Its like pulling a sliver out of your hand. Trust me no muscle at the tip of your finger is stitched. They just stitched to keep your skin well approximated. I would be more interested that its healing well and no infection.

bingo!!! this is my point

I have used wills rim repair in the past with great results runout was better than one of my stock wheels and I could barely tell where they repaired it from the outside. http://willsrimrepair.com

not going to get into a pissing match with you but I have owned two and still have one. I never thought it was twitchy on the track which I spent 99% of my time. I really don't think a "spirited" ride on the street will be noticed. Fixed it Mike_N92 shouldn't you be fixing yours

Really street riding? will it even be noticed? No... I dropped my Rc51 10mm in the front and raised the rear 15mm didn't notice a damn thing on the street except it would almost fall over on its kickstand. At the track turned in better and was very stable at speed. People on here think they are professional racers and spout too much crap that most people on the street wont even notice. We are talking abut dropping an R6 for safety when standing or maneuvering the bike. I bet increasing the sag will solve their problem and not change anything since like I said before most people on the street don't even use the suspension they have now or know how to set it up correctly. Honestly I think the R6 is one of the worst street bikes since it has the power of a moped until it hits 10k rpm. Don't get me wrong I love the R6 as a track bike and have owned two! Its a great looking bike carves like a surgical knife on the track and has some great power at rpms. I just don't think its a good street bike.

Honestly I don't think its bad. what I see from the picture I would say front rim can be fixed a couple companies that do a great job. Or get one of flea bay for 100-150 since its the same rim for many years. Those forks I will bet money are bent and I'm sure the bottom triple is also. Plastic I bet you can get a complete set of OEM plastic for cheap from someone thats racing the bike. Example I sold my plastic lights etc for 1k from a bike that had 300 miles on it. Do your homework and I'm sure you can get that bike back together for less than 3k and with upgrade. IMO and yes I have done it. Do the work yourself ...you might learn something and have fun doing it