ReconRat

I've seen operating systems do this from aggressive viruses. A scan with superantispyware, spybot, and malwarebyte would bring it back if it was. But you'd have to download those on another computer, and take them to that computer. You'll have to boot to safe mode to run the initial scans, since it won't boot currently. Or stop startups and services in diagnostics mode if safe mode won't let you install. You might not even be able to download updates until it settles down and lets you. Or just back it up and wipe it out and start over. Programs and op sys are lost.

They are going to be found at shops that supply materials for body shops, or paint stores that sell automotive paints, or bought on-line. The smc epoxy is the key part. It's the right stuff for repairing flexible or rigid ABS plastic body parts. Take your parts with you if you need to get help buying the right one, there are several to choose from.

And I had one do that, it was my radiator fan stuck. Not turning. Shorted out. Bike still ran fine though, gauges did not.

what attackpainter said... house of kolor is good stuff. I can't find a bigger pic, but here is her neon orange wheels:

yeah, we want shirts... squid on front and "Got Drift?" on back... black please...

enamel = Krylon® Industrial Rust Tough® Acrylic Enamel Aerosol in safety orange (just kidding) bike paint, maybe 76 Honda CB550F orange, probably not as bright as you want or auto paint, one of the mopar hemi orange, real bright, really cool

Most of the rest of the world drives like it's a demolition derby. Although you would enjoy Germany they enforce laws but have no max speed limits in certain areas. They drive with skill but get out of your way. But they do strictly enforce road laws, and fine you what you can afford to pay based on your income. You're not even allowed to break down on a freeway, not even in a rest stop.

yehahhhh, let's weld our doors shut and see if it goes faster! go Dale...

lemmings... and those that follow in their tiny little tracks...

Acme Auto Pilot for motorcycles...now with GPS

Makes sense, and is why we aren't happy with some of the local iron horse traders... Best guess is mucked up wiring, since you mentioned the fender eliminator wiring. How somebody could have messed up the charging circuit is the mystery. Make sure that the fender eliminator wiring isn't reversed somewhere. Rectifiers seldom go bad, and stators seldom go bad unless damaged when the side cover is off. (Honda did have some bad stator designs in the 80s.) Stators also cost a lot and would be the last thing I bought. Time to use a multimeter and check for shorts and opens, or high resistance somewhere, or loose connections. One way is to disconnect everything you can (or fuses), and try running the bike to see if the problem is still there. At least you will know some of what isn't causing the problem.

FOX channel... channel 8 on insight for me

LOL Make it a group hug, let's take some of these newbs out for a gentle ride-about this Spring... I don't want them earning their motocross badges. Dang, I want to put the battery back in...

YES! now that's hardcore...

that's not fat, that's Marine toughness built up over time...

Don't feel bad, I can't even see Casper's list nor hear his music. Nadda... I probably have it blocked somehow, I do that a lot. I doubt it would do me much good to try and set one up if I can't see them. I'll have to fix it first... oops! nevermind, it only took me about 5 minutes to set one up and I can see mine, I just can't see Casper's... go figure...

double post argh

I had a bunch (a lot) on my first bike. But none after that. So I guess that's 39 years with none on the bikes, but some in cars. I did suddenly vanish once... *cough* I think I just learned over time where and when I could and couldn't go fast...

dude, return the attention, keep it alive, do something for her... good friends are few and far between...

Specifications for 2005 - 2006 600RR Compression Ratio: 12.0:1 05 and 06 were the same bike. 04 and 07 were changed. self-extracting zip files: click to extract after downloading: 03-06 CBR600RR service manual http://rapidshare.com/files/48403112/600rr.zip password(if any): pdftown.com 06 CBR600RR owners manual http://rapidshare.com/files/51097745/2006600RR.zip password(if any): pdftown.com 06 owner manual says: unleaded gasoline, pump octane 86 or higher 4.7 US gal (18.0 L) I'm surprised it says 86 octane with a compression ratio of 12.0:1. High tech aluminum engines with high compression can run lower octane than what would traditionally be guessed at. There was an old magazine article that showed dyno tests on some high octane/compression bikes that actually produced more horsepower/torque on gasoline that was less than the factory recommended octane. Nobody knew why the engine would do that.

And yeah, check the new battery with the multimeter to see if it's got 13.8 to 14.5 VDC. It might need a first charge to work.

The absolute first thing I always check, is the ground side of the battery where it is bolted to the chassis. If it's a bad connection, everything goes south and don't come back. I check it by removing and cleaning the connection. This connection often corrodes, and usually nothing looks wrong. You can use the multimeter to check it, disconnect battery, and check resistance between negative battery lead and the chassis anywhere. It should read nearly zero resistance. A bad alternator output, like one with a broken coil set wire, will work fine right after you charge the battery, and run the battery down till you charge it again. At least that's what mine did. It definitely needs traced with that multimeter. Either there's a short or an open resistance drawing current away. Sometimes checking for a short at the fuse box with the multimeter is quicker. Although things that run with the key off, like clocks and alarms, will give a false reading. You really need a schematic or wiring diagram to do this. Shorts are going to be found by unplugging stuff till the problem goes away. If it's as bad as you say, probably don't even need the multimeter to do that. The multimeter would only say you have a short, go find it. Sometimes popping fuses out will isolate which circuit is the problem. I found one like this at the fuse box. The main fuse holder was copper, and brown from age. It was hot, too much resistance. Cleaned it and was good to go. And oddly enough, the key switch itself is a notorious place for a short to occur. Usually discovered by jiggling the key and having things flicker or act up. And then there is the other stuff. The engine doesn't want to start, but how is everything else? Headlight work? Horn work? Horn weak when brake light is on? Headlights nearly go out when trying to start? (more than normal anyway). It might be possible to narrow it down to the ignition circuit connections and parts, if everything else acts ok.