mrhobbz

anyone have a recommendation on an ionizer? I can't imagine a car one is all that powerful and the market is probably flooded with a lot of looks good on paper but works crap in real world.

 

I'll try to get ahold of my ex and see if she knows of any. The ones she used at work were giant shop-vac sized commercial units.

 

Have you tried the ozone spray? I used to use that stuff when I still smoked and it worked great. I'd spray it on the carpets/seats/headliner and then leave the windows up/doors closed on a nice sunny day. Link to it on amazon but I know walmart and the parts stores carry it.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Medo-OZM-1-Ozium-Air-Sanitizer/dp/B000CSWCAG

x2. When I was managing hotels we used one to get some of the most God-awful smells out of rooms.

 

x3, my cum dumpster of an ex girlfriend used to work at Paul Davis Restoration (they do fire/mold/flood/water damage etc) Those ionizers work great and will take the smell out of just about anything

aw...that foreigner head games album is one of my favorite album covers. I don't know why I just always liked it.

 

still awesome setup.

 

Agreed, I like it too. If work slows down maybe I'll be able to get around to centering some stuff on that wall to make it look better. Now I just need to learn to play, past tabs, some basic scales/positions I'm not much count. I think I enjoy collecting them more than anything.

 

I think I may look into doing guitar lessons when I can open up my work schedule to do so

I like that. Nice job.

 

Thanks, I think I'm going to pull the album covers down and pick up some more junk/scratched up records to cover the entire wall with, they're driving me nuts being off center

I guess this counts, currently in the process of getting my "music/computer room" organized. Need to put up a few more wall hangers. The gretsch in the middle needs some attention when I get around to it. Need to replace the jack on it and I think I'm going to swap out the pickups for something else

 

http://sbriggs.io/20160307_115925_6x8.jpg

Try Edison and Woodys on McKinley. They are not far from the other 2 and they don't charge to go in. Woodys is kind of a s-hole but it's worth a look if you have an old car.

 

Woodys charges $1 entry now

What exactly is the break in procedure for the HF compressors? I did not see it in my manual even after exclusively looking for it.

 

mine has probably ran for about a half hour total now. Just change the oil? I have definitely noticed a change in color through the sight glass.

 

 

Don't remember off the top of my head but it includes running it for X amount of time. I haven't set my new one up yet but I have the manual in the garage. I'll grab it in a few minutes and post it here

 

*edit*

Break in procedure is to open all valves/regulators and run for 30 minutes.

Just make sure to follow the break-in procedure in the manual, I also change the oil out after the break in just for good measure.

I sold my first one when I moved, just bought another one. As others have said, for continuous such as air grinders/sanders/etc you might want to buy bigger. For torquing off nuts/bolts, tires and such it's worth a buy.

Does anyone have any experience with any of these? I've been looking at the Sena SMH05 i think it is. I want to pick something up for longer trips so I can pipe a gps & phone through my full face helmet, any recommendations? It seems like the Sena products are a solid choice

Thanks for the ideas guys. My main reasoning behind wanting to ditch the plastic liner is fear of moisture induced bed rot. My truck isn't new enough to have the aluminum body on it and I plan on driving it until the wheels fall off as I've lost interest in cars and have gotten more into bikes at this point in my life.

 

I think I'm going to hit up the linex guy local to me next week and get a quote.

I really want to get rid of the plastic bed liner in my truck, but not sure i want to pay someone the premium of having them do it. Has anyone done it themselves before and have any product recommendations?

For anyone interested, found cheaper insurance (only quoted the bikes so far) through Dairyland Auto & Cycle Insurance (dairylandinsurance.com) they are looking at $615.50/yr for both bikes with more coverage than my Geico policy, so its cheaper than my single bike through geico.

 

Going to quote my cars tomorrow with them too

How many of these do you have, and would you be willing to ship one to South Carolina if I paid for the shipping cost? Been looking for something small for the garage

I've been with Grange forever and will likely never change. They've been great and I don't care about price.

 

Yeah I hear you, as much as I'd like to go back to Allstate (they saved my ass in an accident I had while I was still on my parents policy growing up) I can't bring myself to pay $500/mo for something that I'm not likely going to use.

 

I literally drive 2,000 miles a year now that I am 100% remote for work, my coverages are all 100/300k but I'm likely going to drop those down a bit due to the umbrella policy I have through work

I pay $31/month for full coverage $1000 deductibles for my 2008 GSXR 600 through Rider Insurance. Dairyland Insurance is pretty cheap for me as well. Both of these are strictly online companies.

 

Like others said, shop around, bike insurance is weird and no two people will have the same answer for what's cheapest. Progressive is notoriously expensive for bikes, yet I know some people who have gotten killer deals from them.

 

Thanks for the feedback all. I've been shopping around and it seems like the cheapest on both the cars and bike is still with Geico. Progressive wants nearly 3x the amount for the bike.

 

My father is with progressive and pays something like $100/yr (then again he is in his 60's)

 

My credit history and scores are excellent (high 700's with all 3), I think it is likely just my age and the area I'm in. My insurance jumped quite a bit moving from Columbus to Myrtle Beach (the accident rate is way higher here)

Had geico before I bought my house. Currently Mapfre was the cheapest for the house and 3 cars with $250 deductibles.

 

I've got my home insurance through a small company here in SC, ~$680/yr but they want $350/mo to insure my truck and mustang at the same coverage i have with Geico, seems to be the same story with all the other insurance companies I quote with.

So i've been shopping around for insurance quotes as I'm getting ready to add a new bike to my motorcycle policy and the premiums just seem outrageous.

 

I'm currently with Geico which has been the cheapest I've been quoted at for my auto and motorcycle policies.

 

I've got a 13' F150 an 06' Mustang GT and a 2008 Kawasaki Vulcan 900. My auto policy runs me $125/mo, full coverage and $500 deductibles on both cars and my bike is $604 for the year (low deductibles and full coverage as I have a small loan on the bike)

 

I'm looking at adding a 2002 Kawasaki Mean Streak 1500, no loan and it more than doubles my motorcycle policy ($1110/yr) I figured it would have been cheaper than the 900 with it being an older bike and not having a loan against it, or is it just because I'm 27 (no accidents/violations) and single with a bunch of toys?

 

Anyone have any suggestions on insurance companies?

IT sucks. Do outdoorsy shit like marine biology or something. Or hell, the railroad is always hiring.

 

I somewhat concur with this sentiment. I'm 27, been in IT my entire adult life. The pay is pretty hard to complain about once you've worked you're way into the higher tiers (low 6 digits is where I'm sitting at now for reference, with a GED and no college education) You'll run into politics, gray tape and favoritism no matter where you go. In my experience working for some of the larger companies (JP Morgan is the first experience that comes to mind for me) my job title there should have been "conference call warrior" because of all the assholes I had to argue with on a daily basis that would not let me get my job done. Just expect to change employers pretty often in IT, depending on how long you stay somewhere (my longest was 5 years, followed by 3 at JP Morgan and at JPM I moved internally every year)

 

IT is definitely rewarding though if you enjoy solving problems and critical thinking, oh and you get to sit down all day, you'll eventually become salary capped once you get to a certain point. I can't really move laterally anymore and make a whole lot more than I do now which is why I'm working on my soft people skills to move into management, or down the security side of IT instead of infrastructure and development

Details on the supercharger?

Started reading the comments, my day got exponentially better after reading "Furious George"

I know the older F150's had problems with cracking exhaust manifolds. Typically those noises go away as the engine gets to operating temp, metal expands, and gaps close up. Internal engine noises show up more as it gets up to operating temp and the oil thins.

 

Finally figured it out, took it over to my fathers house and he looked at it. The noise is a combination of things, #1 is a small exhaust leak on the drivers side at the band clamp and its dripping condensation causing a gurgling sound. The actual ticking noise is typical noise from the VCT/VVT junk/injector noise. Going to try to tighten up that band clamp or replace it and should be good to go after that.

 

Thanks for all the comments folks, appreciate it.

If not an exhaust leak check that valve train for anything broken. collapsed lifter, rocker arm, valve spring etc. A ticking noise could be a lot of different things so they can be a bitch to track down especially without the help of a CEL code being set

Yeah will look into that too, I haven't had time to mess with it the past few days, seems to only pop up when it gets up to operating temp, 0 noise from a cold start. Going to have my father whose been a mechanic for 30 some odd years take a listen to it when I run over there for turkey day.

 

Worse case scenario; I drive maybe 2300 miles a year so its not exactly going to see any hard driving.

Ticking noise = Time Bomb. You can try to use the odometer as the countdown clock... but they're notoriously inaccurate. Best to off load that grenade before it blows up in your face.

 

Care to elaborate since you obviously know these motors so well?

Pretty sure I found the cause for anyone interested. The exhaust shop that fixed the bent y pipe said they were surprised the exhaust manifold didn't crack/break since it was being pushed up about 1.5-2" from where the y pipe was bent upwards.

 

After looking around with a plumbing camera I found a crack on the passenger side exhaust manifold, going to hit it with some quick steel and see what happens