mrhobbz

Thanks guys I'm really leaning toward the myrtle beach area, just waiting on their official offer. I think it'd be a better option financially too. I can get a nice mobile/modular on an acre or so for well under 100k there vs 250k for an equivalent house in Las Vegas.

As cheap as housing is I'd be able to pay something nice off in MB in 5-10 years and have enough room to build a 40x60 or so dream garage. Land in Vegas is insane, 500k minimum for a nice plot and thats without a house

So, I've got two job offers on the table and I'm having a tough time deciding between the two.

I'm extremely unhappy with my current position and I'm also underpayed based upon national averages (Application Developer)

Option A) Sr. Unix Administrator in Nevada, I know the hiring managers and have helped lined up a few other resources already (friends also). So there is a relationship that has already been built with those people and I know that we all work very well together.

Option B) "Advisor" for an Application Support team.

This is very close to what I do now minus the development side of things. The benefits of this option is the fact that it is 100% remote, so much so that they are closing the physical offices in most locations, I would also be able to move south (Myrtle Beach area) near my parents who retired there a few years back (they're also kind of freaking out about Option A)

I'm having a hell of a time deciding on this, Option A would definitely be fun and they're already talking of lining me up for more of a management role which would get me to the path I am working towards and it would also be more in line with what I want to do functionally (more infrastructure, OS level stuff). Both of the jobs would be more than enough of a pay increase to relocate for. Any advice?

If youre in the high 700's and you are treating your credit like you obviously have to get to where you are....I wouldn't worry about the increases. IT doesn't get a whole lot higher than a low to mid 800 so you are doing damn good.

That's pretty much what I'm thinking, I've just never seen increases this large before, they've usually all been in $500-$1000 increments, one of them was increased by $3,500. The other factor I think is going the be the two loans I've opened up within the last 2 years (auto and a motorcycle loan) I'm at 31% DTI wise including my current mortgage. Trying to avoid living in an apartment again if I can.

Anyone have any thoughts on credit limit increases? In the last 8-12 months or so I've had limit increases on 4 of 6 of my cards. It's taken me from about ~24% utilization to about ~12% so I know long term it'll be good.

I am thinking short term however, will it negatively impact my scores? I'm moving to Nevada relatively soon (1-2 months probably) and assuming my relocation reimbursement comes through quickly I'll have enough in the bank to put a down payment on a house out there. My concern is if the limit increases will negatively affect my scores or not (all 3 of which are in the high 700's)

FS:

Galaxy Tab 4 7" - $120 obo

-Has been collecting dust on my dresser for the past couple of months.

-32GB sd card & official samsung book cover w/ stand capability.

Microcenter Link

23.6" Asus VE246H - $100 obo (2 available)

23.6" LED, 1920x1080 2ms GTG

Inputs: DVI, HDMI, VGA

Microcenter Link

the buster

I guess I'll take that Ford bag. FORD LOL.

Sorry, I failed. Ford bag is gone also.

I'm going to be moving west for a job in the very near future so I am trying to downsize as much as possible here.

FS:

Central Pnuematic 21 gallon 2.5hp 125PSI cast iron vertical air compressor

HF Link

With hose, quick connects (all 3/8) and fittings

1/2" Central Pnuematic impact wrench.

7,000RPM max speed

700ft/lb max torque

HF link

2 sets of pittsburg deep wall impact sockets (metric)

HF link

1/2" impact extensions

HF link

Impact swivels.

HF link

Also comes with an air ratchet but I can't remember off the top of my head what brand or specs, i believe it's a 3/8 (i can check in a bit)

I've used this mainly to fill up air in my tires and some work on my mustang but other than that it's just sitting in the garage since I bought it in March. I'm willing to separate if there is enough interest, I need to move this stuff fairly quick.

$300 obo.

ill take the oval bag

Sale pending on the bag, will let you know if it falls through

If the gopro doesn't sell in the next week I will grab it. Have to get my share of the business funds for working the upcoming convention. Unless you happen to have square?

GoPro is still available as of now.

Will keep you guys updated on the dollies.

FS

GoPro Hero 2 HD - $100

GoPro Hero 2 HD, suction cup mount + 32gb class 10 SD card.

Harbor Freight Central Pneumatic brad nailer - $10

http://mrhobbz.com/forsale/bradnailer1_small.jpg

http://mrhobbz.com/forsale/bradnailer2_small.jpg

Vapor Heatgun - $10

Amazon Link

750w-1500w

572 degrees - 932 degrees

Harbor Freight Vehicle Dollys (4 total) - $60 for all 4

1500lb capacity each

Harbor freight link

Legend 17qt Cooler - $5

http://mrhobbz.com/forsale/cooler_small.jpg

Canvas Ford Oval Bag - $10

I just got my mustang put back together and fired it up (after throwing a set of long tubes on it)

It threw a bunch of codes, including O2 sensor stuck lean on both bank 1 and bank 2 (rear sensors are disabled and I've set the O2 transport delays to where they *should* be accommodate for the headers) and both of the rear O2's have been disabled.

The O2 voltages are oscillating but the fuel trims are acting nuts, off around 10% while logging.

The other few codes are related to battery voltage and CAN bus/ECM issues.

P2195 O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean bank1 sensor 1

P2197 O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean bank2 sensor 1

U2011 CAN bus fault

U1900 Communication error with PCM

B1318 Battery low voltage

The battery has been sitting for a while, autozone tested it and said it was at 84% and told me I need a new battery, they also tested the alternator and said it was showing bad diodes. Does anyone know if their hand held machine is accurate in this department?

I cleared the codes and drove it around for a bit but probably not long enough for them to trigger again if they are indeed legitimate. After it cools down I'm going to go ahead and check for exhaust leaks (nothing audible however) what is the best way to go about doing this? I've seen a few people using a shop vac blowing into each tail pipe and soapy water, is there a better method?

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Fs

1 ton Pittsburgh engine hoist with load balancer. Bought brand new from harbor freight for 170 + whatever the balancer cost. Never used

$75 you pick it up, will help load it

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-69512.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-60659.html

these

Did you have the wheel turned all the way to the lock? I'm thinking it could be a cv axle binding.

No, but it was close. I pulled it up in the driveway and it did it again (not even close to the steering lock). It wasn't scrubbing (chirping like it was dragging) the tires it just felt like it lost power until I came to a complete stop and straightened it out. I've read it could be the "encoder motor" on the transfer case, anyone know if I can simply disconnect/pull it off and still drive it to test that theory?

I'm a complete noob when it comes to AWD, all the vehicles I've ever worked on were 2wd

So....who wants to volunteer to give this one a try?

 

http://store.steampowered.com/app/265930/

 

edit - after reading this review I'm not sure that I can pass it up

Bought it, tried it, got bored with it after 30 minutes of playing. It's a giant rag doll simulator involving a goat terrorizing shit. Entertaining time waster but not sure it's worth the $7 on sale price

Bill dozzer on here is the shop your referring to.

That is who I was looking for, thank you sir.

Having an issue with my 06' Saab 9-7X (5.3L AWD trailblazer platform?)

I went to grab groceries and everything was fine until i was turning around in the culdesac in my neighborhood. I had the AC on and the radio going, at first I thought it was stalling but it's not wanting to move in turns, almost like its trying to drag the front or back wheels (i honestly couldn't determine which) My buddy Eric suggested changing the transfer case fluid, does anyone else have any suggestions?

Also does anyone know the member here that works at/owns that shop on harrisburg pike? I may tow it over there and have them look at it.

P.S.

It's not throwing any dash lights, no drive train light, no check engine light, nothing.