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mrhobbz

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Posts posted by mrhobbz

  1. Buster you missed the best video... Looks like he had his body kit painted and attended a solo car show.

     

     

     

    The owner replied to a comment on this one too;

     

    "These are the kinds of things that emerge when you have limited choices. lol

    And the lunacy is not just skin deep. From the top, 302 HO from Lincoln mark 7 LSC, Converted to carb with edelbrock air gap intake, holley 550 carb, shorty headers, x-pipe into flowmaster 40 series, AOD with street strip valve body reprogram kit, Aluminum rad with twin fans, trans cooler (pancake style) also with its own cooling fan.

     

    Suspension: Rear coil springs, new, from crown vic station wagon (higher rate) 1 inch rear sway bar with panhard rod and bilstein shocks, Front sway bar, 1 1/4 inch with hiem joint bar ends, and with, count em, 4 bilstein shocks! lol Tires and rims-10x20 front AND rear, with pirrelli (I know I misspelled that) tires. 305’s in front, 315’s in back. Oh yeah, tubular upper control arms from 2000 crown vic and12 inch rotors and four piston calipers.

    Bro, you wouldn’t believe how that bitch corners.

    It’s really too heavy for the power plant that’s in it but I’m sure those who know, factor that in when they walk me, but in the corners, the eyebrows raise Lol Moms got an STS and kicked the Lincoln to the curb with only 73k on it, I lost my Chevelle in Dallas, and so I was much obliged for ANYTHING! I mean hell, she just GAVE it to me! Anyway, that’s my story and I’m stickin to it. Thanks for your ear."

     

     

    So basically, it's still faster than anything buster owns :gabe:

  2. Coworker said his dad got a very lightly used, almost new, one for a relative song a few years ago, and just traded it in for nearly as much as he bought it for. He said the market for those is crazy right now for some reason. Just second hand info, but it may be what you are seeing. Good luck with finding one! :)

     

    Yeah could be, not too sure on the raptor at this point. I've found a handful of 2010's with 60k+ miles on them going for mid-high 30k My budget is in the 35-40k ball park but the raptor seems awfully expensive for what it is.

  3. geesh. 13 city!?! I guess if you are going to pay out the nose for gas you might as well like what you drive. Raptor it up!

     

    Edit - I see you are remote too. Then yes the Raptor is a perfect "DD". I do the same...get 14-15mpgs and still fill up like once a month...maybe.

     

    Get the SAAB perfectly clean, no CELs, ect and trade that sucker in.

     

    This, so much this. Get rid of that SAAB ASAP, sounds like it's a ticking time bomb.

     

    Thanks for the input guys, this is what I'm going to be doing. The only CEL/code it's throwing is for the fuel sending unit so I'm going to put a sending unit in it this weekend.

     

    I stopped by to look at that raptor and they had already sold it :-( There is a super clean 2008' F-450 super duty crew cab though.. I didn't have time to take it for a spin (I start work at 2pm) so I'll likely go back and look at it tomorrow.

  4. Online ordering system

     

    Unless you absolutely need something 100% custom I'd avoid reinventing the wheel as there are tons of solutions that are already out there. (OS Commerce, OpenCart and boat loads of others)

  5. I honestly haven't had any Trailblazers/ect eating encoder motors. I'm sure someone willing to spend the time on it is going to find something worn, binding, ect. I have seen most of the driveline issues stem from the front diff, but this very well could be something else. Personally I wouldn't want a Trailblazer, let alone the Saab version that I doubt you could get most trim parts for. I'd seriously consider trading it off and being done with it.

     

    Luckily I haven't had to get body/trim parts for it but yes you are right, finding them is difficult. One example is the piss poor hood they designed. The front edge of it folds over itself on the inside (now rusting from the inside out) no reproduction hoods to be had and all of the used hoods I have found have the same problem.

     

    The ford dealer down the street has a nice looking ford raptor I think I'm going to go check out next week. I occasionally do some light duty towing (motorcycles, atvs, lumber, etc) so I think that might be the best option for me. I've talked myself out of the C63 I've wanted.

  6. The only time I've had it bind in sharp turns has been when the encoder motor has shit the bed. So it's definitely not the *same* issue. The last time it really bound up was in WV in a straight line up through the mountains. It felt like it was dragging wheels (it actually wasn't) but it was crow hopping then while I was getting off of the freeway during that incident. When I got to SC I did replaced the diff fluids and made two trips from Ohio to SC hauling a 6x12 enclosed tandem axle loaded the brim and it didn't have a single problem (it has the tow package BTW) the trans seems to shift fine even when romping on it (I can count how many times I've beat on this thing on one hand). I'm also a member on Saab central, I'll check that post out.

     

    One thing I do know ad being a problem is the rear end after the leveling suspension settles sometimes the rear end will clunk when leaving from a stop, apparently this is an issue with the drive shaft angle when the suspension is at the lowest point.

     

    I checked the suspension when I did my oil change a few weeks back, wheel bearings, and ball joints are fine and I have noticed anything. I think I may have a dealer look it over, either that or I'm going to clear a space in the garage and start tearing the front end apart

  7. Haven't tried marking the tires but I'll give that a shot next weekend. I've called every GM dealer in the area and they all tell me every TSB applicable has been done. The repair work isn't a big deal, I'd probably have to pay someone to do the drive train stuff because I really don't know much about AWD systems in general. I just can't gauge if it would be worth it. Worse case scenario the remanufactured diff's are in the $3,000 range not including labor. Not sure on the tcase. I would take it in for diag but the issues seem to be fairly intermittent
  8. So I bought a Saab 9-7x in 2013 as a DD with 70k miles on it and have loved it up until it has started falling apart. It's primarily the typical GM issues, interior accent lights going bad, fuel level sending units (replaced twice now) but as of recently the GMT360 drive train in it has been doing some really concerning things. It keeps burning up encoder motors (enough that I now have a spare & necessary wrenches in the back) and a whole bunch of intermittent binding issues.

     

    I've done all of the scheduled diff fluid changes and what have you but it doesn't seem to help. The tires are all the same w/ even tread wear and air pressure.

     

    I really think the car just hates me. I've now also been having tons of electrical issues one of which related to the HIDs which lines up with a GM recall (ballasts) but they refuse to fix it since my VIN isn't included, sensors going nuts, the typical oil consumption issues, gummed up intake manifold due to the displacement on demand. I have to reason to believe it was a flood/damaged vehicle. I'm about tired of dumping money into it however.. I could probably have it paid off within the next 4-5 months and being a remote employee my commute usually consists of driving a mile down the road to get groceries a couple times a month.

     

    So do I pay it off and drive it until the diffs explode or trade it in now (looking at a ford raptor or a used c63 amg) and take a hit on it as I'm currently upside down on it (I think, I haven't checked KBB or NADA in a while)

  9. Does anyone have experience with any of these? I've been debating on getting one mainly for GPS on the motorcycle but I'm not too sure how the displays fair in daylight and how good the battery life is on the more common ones (samsung, lg, etc)
  10. 10-4 Haven't gotten around to checking it yet. I'm thinking its either a vacuum leak or an exhaust leak. I did headers on it over the winter and the gaskets they came with were junk but I had to get it put back together. I haven't checked and re-tightened the header bolts yet since they're such a pain in the ass to get to on a garage floor
  11. Keep running into this code, initially it was on both banks so i replaced both O2s and now its only on bank 2. O2 voltages look good but its maxing out the fuel trims on bank 2.

     

    Pretty sure its leaking st the header but can't really hear a leak with how loud it is. Does anyone have any tricks for finding leaks at the header?

  12. If you're getting the bulk of your consumables somewhere else, you're paying too much for crappy products.

     

    Once I figured out what I did and didn't like from Aldi I was saving probably a good $100-$150/mo on my groceries. There aren't any down here in SC though :(

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