jporter12

I rode the whole length of 715 this saturday, then 79 into Newark. I have to say that the second section of 715, East of Walhonding, seemed a little better than the rest.

It seems that my login doesn't carry over from the o-r.com to ordn, when I cliked on the link above.

I don't, and I don't.

You have 2 penises?

When cleaning the carbs all 4 times, did you just spray carb cleaner in them, or did you verify that all of the little passages are clear?

Sanity in one of your posts? I'm gonna go ahead and call right now...

What tire did you end up getting? Those 20's are still expensive. They have come down in price as other companies start making those sizes, but there's stilla lot of rubber there!

I think Todd cleared this one up pretty well. I know of a decent rider that hit triple digits to catch the lead group, only to find out that the lead group was hitting 80-ish MPH max. When I ride the 250 on the CSBA rides, I'm usually behind the lead pack, and only get pushed back in the mid pack by the people that think they need to go 100+ in the straights. The 250 tops out around 95 with a good long straight stretch. In fact, I've been on more than one ride where 600's and faster hold me up, because they have too much pride to let a smaller bike go by them in the straights, which ruins the fun for me, because I have to follow their slow asses through the curves that they're afraid to take at a speed above a crawl. I know I'm not a very good rider, I've been riding 2 seasons now, and I have a LOT to learn before I move up to something that will do triple digits with ease. My 250 runs around 7k at 60 mph. I have no reservations taking it on a couple hundred mile slab-fest in the rain, running 70-80 the whole way, to West Virginia and back. At 80 it's hitting around 10k. The bike is DESIGNED to run at the rpms that you're seeing, unless the gearing is changed by more than a tooth or 2. But, you're going to school to be an engineer, so you can figure out what the optimum RPM is for your bike, factoring in longevity, emissions, etc... Looks like you need to dump the Katana wannbe Nightrider!

Nice tags, BTW! I really should get something for my Camaro, unless someone buys it.

It get's pretty confusing at times, when you find out who makes what and slaps other brand names on the stuff!

Did that. It seems to be back to about 3 weeks, from being down to 2.

Mr. Nerd, since you're so old! (j/k)

^^^ Nerd!

Get back in the truck and deliver some fuel.

I need to check into it first, I know only certain t-stats are compatible with oil furnaces. I don't know if the t-stat actually supplies the control voltage or what. I really doubt it though, as it's 3 AA batteries. I've been lazy about it, I guess I need to do something soon, since we've been using it some.

I totally agree with the real world testing. The rest, at one time I knew (somewhat) what I was doing with T/S parameters, but it has been so long that I would need a serious refresher.

Honeywell is usually the winner, but the one we have here is crap. The heat is oil. I don't know if that makes the difference or not, but it takes batteries, and it's to the point where the batteries are lucky to make it past 2 weeks. I need to fix this thing.

to both!

I need to refresh my skillz on that! I really loved it when I did that stuff! It's been over 8 years since I've messed with any CAD/design software.

Great idea! Next thing we know, you'll be getting some professional speakers, a mixer, some lights, etc...

Does that ever really happen, though?

^^^ That backs up what I said about a couple 200 watt receivers! 100 watts per channel. Best buy also had their house brand, Insignia, for about $99 each, at about 100 watts per channel. No idea who makes them, but I'm sure it's someone that makes stuff for others. The TV I bought thereabout 5 or 6 years ago I found out is manufactured by Sansui. I had no idea they were still even around, until that!

yes, you are partially correct, this was originally an effort in macgyvering. This does not surprise me at all!

Oh, I totally agree that a watt is not the end-alll comparison factor on how loud a system will be. The big amp in the system I was talking about was tested (by the manufacturer of course) at 748 watts. That's on a bench, with a resistor, not a speaker, from what I understand. The others were around 200-ish each. Then you have to add in the efficiency of the amp. The big amp was a class d (subwoofer) which is very efficient, not worth a damn with higher frequencies. The others were class AB which are around 60% efficient, IIRC. So, at 12.6 volts, we're probably getting close to 100+ amps going in. I have heard systems that are far lower wattage that are louder. Where the big amounts of power reall comes into play, is in control of the speaker cone of the woofers, more critical in some cabinet designs than others.