jporter12

Yeah, both of them...

Yes, you do suck, and I bet they DO hate you. You should go anyway! I think we're loading up to head out in a few.

The calendar link in the OP (I had to look, myself!) says 6:30.

How has the turnout been so far? I have been wondering about that. I'll see what the weather looks like, and what the wife says, and I might make it out.

Do the gloves HAVE to be leather and can the boots be heavy work boots? I'm set for gear otherwise, with what I wear anyway. I really need something like this, to learn how to do things correctly, on a closed course.

I think Moose did a ninja edit on that! Then again, I may have skipped an entire line of the post, I'm not completely awake...

What are the approximate times for stuff? I might be in on this, depending on the times.

SO I figured.

If I give you a PBR will you ?

Kitty's got claws!

Another gravedigger? Thread is nearing a year old, let it die a respectful death. Add on top that it was over a stupid Subaru, and you just turned it into the failboat.

Wow! 2 nice projects! I love the VFR's (and the old VF's)! I'm not much of a fan of Yammy's but htat looks like a nice start to something fun!

If it was mine, that's what I would do, as long as it has the plastic intake manifold, which I'm pretty sure it does. I would also get the new head bolts. As long as the head you get cfomes assembled, and you don't need the valve seals. If you need them, I would probably get the head set, and give them the seals out of the set.

That sounds like a cumbustion leak detector fluid. Pretty goog chance that it IS blown, and a good chance that it is cracked. One thing you can do to save a few $ is not buy the head set, but just get the head gasket itself, and the EGR plate gasket (that's on the back of the head, and only if the head needs replaced) since the way the other gaskets are made, they can be reused, as long as they aren't messed up. The intake and valve cover are nice thick o-ring type gaskets, and the exhaust is a MLS metal gasket. The only other one you'd need is the water outlet gasket, at the front of the head. The head gasket itself should be around $20, and the head bolts around $20. The EGR plate, and water outlet should be less than $10 for both. This is all dependant on what the machine shop needs, if the head is bad, and what the replacement has. If they get a fully assembled head, you shouldn't need all the extra stuff (valve seals) that come with a head set, but if they get a bare head, then the head set will be better to get, as the seals are over $4 each, for 16 of them!

I know!!! Let me be a dick... mmmkay?

That was back before your time! Don't go posting like you remembered it, and was just bringing it back like you knew it was there all along... Kudos for you using search to find it though!

Hookers and blow. /thread

Be careful on that coolant in the oil diagnosis on this one. The oil dipstick and fill tube are one in the same on this thing, and they tend to collect moisture on the underside of the cap. This is NOT an indicator of an issue, without the oil actually looking like it has coolant in it, such as looking like chocolate milk. One thing to consider in favor of those recommending an engine swap, if there is a significant amount of coolant in the oil, it can degrade the rod and main bearings. I'm not sure how the 2.2's are about it, but I remember back in the late 80's, early 90's a bunch of S-10's and Blazer's wth the 2.8 V6 that had coolant contaminate the oil and wipe out the bottom end pretty quick. I worked at a GM stealership for while back then, and there were quite a few of those engines getting replaced! I have my doubts on coolant getting into the oil on it, due to the way it's made. They almost always leak to the outside, or into a combustion chamber. I'm not saying it's not possible, just that it's not all that likely. I usually test them with a cooling system pressure test (pressurize it, then start it after sitting for a bit, see if steam comes out the tailpipe) or with a cumbustion leak detection fluid.

I think the bold part says it all. This is what I do for a living. Bad advice is worse than no clue for the OP.

Thanks for that! I want to repaint mine in the RWB scheme. I need to get the colors in the paint system that we use though.

Or a couple cans of bar's leaks!

Dude, no silicone is needed, or even recommended for that entire job! The only place I use RTV on that engine is where the oil pan gasket meets the front cover gasket, and maybe in the rear in the same situation. I'm not trying to help him out with repairs either, just letting him know that I work for a shop that is capable if he decides it's too much for him. If he decides to go it on his own, I'd give him more specific advice if he needed. Have you swapped the engine on one of those? I thought so. It's a 10-13 hour job, depending on man or auto trans, A/C, etc... Compared to 7.2 for the head. A god 6 hour difference in labor, and knowing that the head gasket will get him through the next year or so that he needs it to last. At our shop, 6 hours is $450. The only other common engine mechanical issue (timing components) are less than that, out the door. If the engine has a couple HUNDRED thousand miles on it, I'd say fixing it would be the better choice. This is considering that a used engine will be pretty close to the same price as the parts for the head gasket job, which would be about right.

WTF????

Nope, just smartassing his smartass comment, for those dumbasses that need it all spelled out to them (Pauly) since they have no grasp of sarcasm...

If that's what a woman's man wants in bed, she's doing it wrong, and he's getting it elsewhere!