RSparky

Hey paul, I have a set of shark skinz sitting in a box, I've had for a couple months now. Eventually, I want to have it painted plain white and on the bike. I'm in no rush though, just rocking my half faired stock stuff! Maybe I can hit you up in the winter or spring time if you're not overloaded?

My bike was acting funky in the low revs, and being more rumbly and a whole bunch of weird. Jacob at Middletown Cycle got out his handy dandy infrared temperature gun thingy, and confirmed my suspicion of running like a twin. I got my plugs, some oil too, went home, and got it fixed. Painless process. Minus the finger I scraped trying to get the plug cover off...

ima try liquid performance. webbikeworld likes it. and they are holier than thou.

the switch was an intermittent frustration. i think the plugs may have fixed the problem, but i'm not sure. time will tell. it seems ok on my two commutes so far. but low rpm may have felt like it was not sparking, but i really can't say because i haven't had enough time to feel it.

i plan to retake it sometime soon. scraping pegs on rebels if fun! plus, now with my street experience i like to think i'll go into it with a better mindset.

i've seen a lot more on 675. usually 2+, sometimes 4-5 on my 15 mile trek from centerville to fairborn. ridiculous.

i have a cover. i just never use it. i generally ride in whatever elements come my way. this past time was the first time water has ever done worse than rust my brake discs. i'm just going to try to seal up the switch housing and call it good. and serpentracer, though i have absolutely zero free time, we should meet up and ride sometime.

Thanks for the offer! I think I fixed it though. The local shop used the infrared gun on it after work. It was only hitting on two! I got plugs, and oil, and went to town. Weird thing is, the old plugs looked ok. Brown, dry but not powdery... First time I had been plug deep in the 6. There is absolutely no room in there... Frustrating. it ran fine on my way home. Once again, in the pouring balls rain... serpent, do you have a street bike?

Good tip! Also, I read about the ignition coils. But that was a while ago, so I forget what exactly brand it was. Denso, or mitsubishi... I'll be looking into it tonight.

I plan to make time for it this weekend, somehow. Can't have a broken car and broken bike...

Haven't gotten to this yet. My life sucks. I have gotten a new symptom, however. Maybe same problem, maybe unrelated... It seems as though the bike is acting like it's running on three, or something. at low rpm it is hesitant, and sounds slightly more rumbly.

So, dad and brother say it sounds like it's top end. Valve cover is off... Anyone work on hondas here?

Talk to Hoblick. He's got all these guys beat.

Pardon my lack of knowledge, but would carrying around fuel stabilizer, or octane booster remedy this?

Awesome. That's easy. I had it open when I put on my clip ons. Maybe this weekend then. Thanks guys.

So, you mean the keyhole ignition itself? Cuz it's the switch on the bar that seems to act weird. I can lightly touch it, pushing more on the "on" side, and that will kil it even.

like, extra lighting to compliment what you already have? No experience, but PIAA seems to be the cream of the crop. Replacement bulbs, I'd go osram nightbreakers or the Silverstars. Xenons to replace your current headlights? theretrofitsource. you can buy regular color lights, too. doesn't have to be the ghey blue.

So, I'm noticing a little something interesting every now and then. A couple weeks ago, i rode in the pouring balls rain. No big deal, I like rain rides. This one was particularly wet. Week or so later, I start my bike, and it stalls after 2 seconds. Not like a bog stall. Like an open circuit stall. I flick the switch, and the fuel injector whir noise starts, then stops suddenly, as well as the Power Commander click under my rear seat. Then, it whirs completely, and allows me to start it. The switch seems to be sensitive. If I gently push it down further into the "on position" it stops the bike. And occasionally, I have to flip it once or twice to get the fuel pump to start. Either that, or maybe the PC got wet and shorted something? It runs fine once it's going. And it's only acted funny a handful of times. Any thoughts?

just plug it. i know the stigma, but if a plug "fails" it'll be a slow leak and you'll notice. i have a rear tire curse. every one of my new sets of tires has gotten a screw or nail in the rear. i'm waiting on the one for this set. i've ridden on 3 plugs, 2 down to the wear bars. the other, i sold the bike before it got there. nonetheless, it worked fine for me. my $0.02 to answer your question, i love the pr2s.

winning. it starts. seriously though, it sounds like it's running on a sledgehammer and an anvil.

I'm pretty sure it's a combination of broke. The valve was the last thing replaced. But that noise now is louder than that. It's a rod or something of similar mass.

I'll give you as much of the history as i know: 91 prelude. B21A1 engine. the predecessor to vtec. don bought it, being sold because "one day it wouldn't start." Their story was they replaced the timing belt, and it ran after up until one day it wouldn't start. Don figured out they lied, because when the timing belt breaks, the piston goes up and smacks a valve. After much beating around the bush, he took the top off, and found the bent valve. replaced it and the car ran fine. He drove it for a couple months and sold it to me, so he could get another project. He's a one man shop. I've had it since last winter. It leaks oil, power steering fluid, and slowly oozes hydraulic fluid (brake) out of the piston under the pedal. It's a thirsty car. But, keep it full, and it ran fine. It also had a vibration tick right around 1900-2300 rpm. Yesterday, I decided to drive it to school. (I make sure to get at least 50 miles a week in the summer. Learned the hard way by letting the previous car sit all summer.) 16 miles on the highway, I get off the exit, and stop at the light, slightly leaning back. The oil light comes on, and the revs bog. First time the oil light has came on. I knew it was leaking before I bought it, and have been vigilant about it. I rev a little to keep it going and the light goes off. So, it's pressure or voltage. I get the half mile to school, go in, do my thing, let the car cool down, and come out. Check oil, and it was slightly low. Parked on a slight backward lean, so it read lower than it was. I put in enough to get to the top dot. Started it warmed it up, and it seemed fine. Highway to next destination, 8 miles away. Get off the highway, come to a light, and it bogs to stall. Oil light came on before dying. I get it to a parking lot, check oil, and it's full. The 2k rpm tick has spread out now and gets a little louder over 3k. I limp to my destination, do my business there, and check the oil again. Not cold, but not hot. Oil is fine. I head home, and get about halfway there when the car lurches forward, loses power, the tick became a rumble, and I shit my pants. It goes, but it's loud and weak. Hazards on, I limp off the next exit, and sit. Call Don, and he is luckily in the area. He has me start it and clang to a parking lot. He has a few hypothesis, most likely being a rod, but says the engine shouldn't move as well as it does. He said he'd ask around today, so I'm waiting. Any ideas from the peanut gallery?

I've got a shoe box lid covered in inside out rolls of duct tape. And over 60 fasteners for all my plastics... Arranged and labeled by part. Unscrew, stick to tape. Unscrew, stick to tape. Part falls off, name it, and write it near the fasteners you just pulled.

last year i commuted on the bike til halfway through november. I'll see if i can this year.

well, i'll give it a little time. it's good after a little bit of hot glue.