Gixxus Christ!

Got it home and began diagnostic process. Brand new fuel pump wasn't running. Chased down to fuel cut relay. Tested wires going in, got voltage. Jumped hot wire to outgoing and boom, pump runs. Let carb bowls fill, thumbed starter. Bike immediately barks to life. Check pipes, bike is only running on front bank. Check impedance on rear bank coil, get nothing. So there you have it. Small coolant leak from where rubber hose goes on nipple, easy shit. Few drops of gas from carb overflow. Tach not working, need to chase down wires. Box connector for stator is half melted along with connector for headlight. Fuse box looks to contain fuses rated higher than called for, plan on replacing rectifier/voltage regulator and cooked wiring. Fork seals are blown out, lots of cosmetic fuckery afoot but for a buck fiddy I did good.

Arranged for truck and trailer, thanks tho. Should have it back at the house by 3. Plan to have it running by 6 or 7. Then begins the process of making it safe to ride, swapping all fluids, checking brakes and tires, etc....

Idk, pretty young dude

Who's got a truck in the Akron area? Or trailer, I'm not picky.

Buying an 84 vf700 magna semi-basket case. Everything is there minus a few turn signals and a side cover. Tank is 70/100, has dents and some rust. Motor spins, will run after maybe an hour or two of wizardry. Fork seals are blown, chrome is rusty, some connectors are melted. Seat needs new cover. New tires, battery and fuel pump. $150 I couldn't fuck this up if I tried.

I Love the snarl of a v4. Hell, even a gen2 magna 750 with stock pipes sounds great to me.

Never got to the fork rebuild. Maybe next year. Took the vintage Honda to my dad's place in tallmadge for a visit Monday. Got rained on for about half of the ride home. Either something shorted out in the ignition circuits or my velocity stacks sucked a ton of water because I was running on 2 cylinders pretty much the whole time. Not having a front fender probably didn't help if it was electrical. Planning on getting it up to operating temp and shooting the hose at various places to see what it doesn't like. Worked with the wife....

I would gladly fix it but I'm too far away.

Dress points with Emory paper or crocus cloth, clean with contact cleaner spray. Easy job and should fix it, or at least remove points from the equation. Next items to check would be all associated wiring connectors, then coil, then cdi box. Again, pretty simple stuff. Possible magneto is bad, but more likely it's one of the ignition components.

Air in general is a poor conductor of heat. This is in comparison to other substances. I never claimed it was the bust insulator, but it is an insulator. That was all I was saying. I understand that air will sink heat out of your body in an air mattress, never said it wouldn't, but it's still better than being directly on the ground. Ok, I'm done on this. Hoping to finally get around to putting my new springs and gold valves in the bandit forks while I have 2 days off work.

No please, give me a physics lesson. What about my statement is ridiculous? That radiators radiate heat? I'm confused.

I'm IN a sleeping bag. .that's how those work right?

You may want to check your facts. Air is a horrible conductor of heat. This makes it a good insulator. A radiator radiates heat as the name implies. The material the radiator is made from is doing the conducting, along with the coolant inside it, both of which are more dense than air, which makes them good conductors of heat. I use an air mattress when I camp. Even on extremely cold autumn nights I don't have an issue with it freezing me, because air is a good insulator.

Bars close at 2:30am or earlier.

You do know that air is an insulator right?

Fuck it then, I'm not going either.

Thinking of taking the antique down to qsl for a few drumsticks and a beer sometime around 6:30. Anyone interested?

Technically you only need a trike endorsement. It's one level below motorcycle, ie you can ride a trike with an m endorsement but not the other way around.

Took the Honda out for a flogging. Got it up to 92mph before things started feeling squirrelly. 92 indicated on my aftermarket speedo could be anywhere between 85-105. I need to calibrate it. Oil temp stayed around 150° while I was moving pretty good. Got up to 180° at stops, 170° in city traffic. Cooler seems to be doing a good job. Oil temp gauge is also not calibrated so temp could be way off. Also did fork seals and oil change on a customer's Suzuki m50 turd. Will be a nice payday this weekend.

Ring neck is the way to go. If you use anything else you're not doing carpentry, you're just playing with dad's hammer.

Yeah let's hear it. Still pretty early for your particular brand of old fart snark but I had my Wheaties this morning...

Wow, great advice! I never thought of that!

Ok, so my latest obsession with my Honda cb849 build is oil. Namely cooling it. I went to great lengths to install an oil cooler that works well and doesn't look too shitty. Now I want to monitor the temperature of the oil for a variety of reasons; to make sure it's not getting hot enough to suffer thermal breakdown in traffic or while flogging the dogshit out of it, to collect valuable data for myself and others, and because I must always be doing something with this bike. In stock configuration these bikes did not have oil coolers, the massive heat sink and huge oil galleries in the top end did a great job of keeping it cool. In my penultimate wisdom I have increased the displacement by 113cc, the compression ratio from 9:1 to 10.5:1 and put a high lift, high duration cam in, along with performance exhaust and open velocity stacks because race bike. So it's cooking a bit hotter than stock these days. So with the setup I have there's a sandwich plate that diverts the oil exiting the dry sump to a cooler, then back down to be filtered and returned to the pan where it is then returned to the oil tank by a scavenging pump. I have the option of monitoring temperature at 4 places: immediately exiting the motor, just before entering the cooler, immediately exiting the cooler and just before going into the filter. Two of those options are nearly useless as they're only 8" of braided hose away from 2 others, so the choice is really either directly out of the motor or directly out of the cooler. Out of the motor would give me the hottest oil reading possible, but because the oil exiting the motor has just passed through the head and down the oil drains in the front of the cylinder and exchanged a ton of heat out of those areas, may not be the best reflection of my operational oil temp. Out of the cooler would obviously be the coolest temp reading, but this oil goes on to be returned to the oil tank where it presumably cools further before being drawn into the motor again. So if you've hung with me this long, congrats. Now let's hear your opinions.

Got my oil temp gauge in the mail and stopped by summit to buy a fitting to allow me to thread the sending unit from the gauge into my oil cooler lines. Got home, tried to dry fit it and the sending unit that came with the gauge was way too long, bottomed out in the inside of the fitting well before any threads we're engaged. Found a super short one in summit catalog, picking it up tomorrow. Then I can try and devise a way to bar mount a gauge meant to go in a car dashboard.