Gixxus Christ!

And people who do well are paid more because an employer knows it's better to retain than to retrain.

Been using the same plate the last 4 or 5 bikes.

You're comparing apples to oranges. Lawyer speak? Dollars to donuts the maintenance instructions were written by an engineer, not a lawyer. Probably because the manufacturer of the chain has zero liability in how you use it. Why wouldn't the manufacturer want you to get at least the expected life out of their product? If I buy a chain and follow the care instructions and it only lasts 1200 miles, I'm not buying a chain from them again. your way seems to work. Maybe because it keeps the chain so clean and keeps moisture out of it. Dirt is a big enemy to a chain and will cause it to wear faster. As far as 350 miles per ride, good for you. Some of us commute on our bikes. Some don't put in 350 miles a day. I'd rather clean and lube every 500 or so (which takes me a few weeks) than spritz it down with hillbilly juice after every ride. It works for me and it's what the manufacturer suggests. I'll do me, you do you. As far as advice for younger riders, as long as they're doing SOMETHING to the chain it's better than nothing, be it wd40, motor oil, chain wax or whatever.

Idk how you were doing it before, but cleaning and oiling a chain isn't as bad as you make it out to be. If done regularly all it takes is a rag wet with k1 and a quick spin on the wheel, then shoot some lube while spinning and all done. I'm sure your way works great for you, but you don't design and produce chains for a living so I will defer to the people that do. You don't ask a mechanic for medical advice even if he's really healthy.

I'm still going to follow the manufacturers instructions for maintaining my chain.

False. The rings keep the pins lubed but not the plates. Chain manufacturers recommend cleaning with kerosene ONLY and then using a chain lube, even on o and x ring chains. Wd40 is not a lubricant or penitrating oil. It's a water displacement fluid that leaves a film of its base oil behind as the solvents evaporate out of it.

Wd40 each ride vs chain wax every 500 miles sounds more like a waste of effort.

Buy a loud one and do this: http://joelsgarage.blogspot.com/2006/03/quiet-generator-muffler.html?m=1 Who doesn't have a stock can in their garage?

Those interlock kits are handy but expensive. I just wired a 240v 30 amp breaker into my panel and ran it to a box with a male 240 twist lock inside and keep the breaker off. Power goes out, I wheel out my genny, feed the cord I made through the basement window, kill main breaker and all house breakers, plug genny into box, turn on genny breaker and start her up, turn on the breakers I need to run my house.

Craigslist. Search generator. Wait for one to cost $300

Sounds good, hope it's a cheap easy fix.

Since I don't really have anyone to ride with (thanks ORDN) I'm gonna use it for music and phone mostly. I will use it for gps too when I actually have a destination or if I somehow get so far from my home I can't even.

I'm in massillon, that's between akron and canton sorta. not exactly a short drive. you can swap the small wires between the front and back cyl coil and see if the problem Follows the coil or the wires. from there you can tell if you need a new coil or if you have an issue with the cdi box, the ignitor or the wiring.

Boners for everyone! I'm sure the speakers will be much better than the thumper 2's I have now. Plus I don't have to have a cable from my helmet to my phone. Also now my wife can just call if she's worried instead of assuming I'm dead on the street and then being mad at me for surviving (and not calling) when I get home.

I'll look into it in 5 years when this huge can of klr is empty.

Ok. chase your plug wire back to the coil and make sure your connection is good. Then inspect the wires that go to the coil, make sure those connections are kosher. If all that checks out then you'll need to check your coil with a VOM and see if it's cooked. Where in ohio are you?

Well according to the usps mine will arrive thurs. much excite!

swap the plug from the front cyl to the rear. If it sparks it's the plug. If it doesn't the issue is further upstream. We will fix this.

Checking spark is easy. Remove plug, plug it into the cap, lay against the motor and thumb the starter. you want a bright blue arc.

Ah ha! Check plug for spark, check plug cap and wires for cracks, check coil as well. They really run like shit on one cyl.

Good luck, post up some findings. I know there's usually a way to jump the fuel pump to rule out the relay being faulty, should be a matter of unclipping a quick connect and jumping 2 pins in it

Look at the wiring going to the coils, that seems to be the only common component with the fuel pump and tach. See if anything is loose or corroded.

It's got a pump, could have failed but that still doesn't account for the haunted speedo which is electronic. Possible they're on the same fuse and it's loose Or bad wiring to the block? That would account for intermittent fuel and tach issues...lemme find a wiring diagram....

I'd say fuel isn't getting into the carbs fast enough but the tach acting crazy sounds like electrical....

Ok....so where's them sammiches?