99FLHRCI

If the item doesn't add value, then you would not lose anything removing it. So the head unit doesn't add any value then taking it out doesn't remove any value.

 

The way they are arguing it, the item doesn't add value because it is expected to be there where as the part missing would detract value because it is expected to be there. For example, I have MSD COP. $70/ea $33/ea for a replacement item on RockAuto. So 6 coils costs me $420. The car should have coils on it so, they do not add value but, removing them will remove value. I could remove the coils and replace them with "stock" ones and get about half my value back.

 

Problem is multiply this across the $11k in performance/comfort stuff (parts value only no labor) and it seems like a huge hit I shouldn't have to take as their insured deprived me of my property. I am fine with losing some of it, I would like to be able to either remove my parts (which would save them money since it is going to scrap) or have them replace the parts. Things that really hurt are like the $500 fuel pump I had installed for literally 2 weeks.

Silly question do you have stock parts?

 

Some I do. That was one question is if I would be putting stock parts back. I would not be opposed to that. Some parts I trashed though. Cleaned out when I recently moved and some stuff went in the trash.

Was hit by another driver. They were cited and their insurance has accepted blame. They have stated they will give me fair market value for the vehicle. I have asked to either be reimbursed for my custom/aftermarket items or to be allowed to remove them and keep them. The adjuster said I will only get paid if it adds value to the vehicle and if I remove anything the value of that item will be deducted from the value of the vehicle reducing my settlement. I was under the impression they are responsible for replacing everything I have been deprived of (aftermarket stereo, performance parts, etc). Is this true? Can anyone point me to ORC/OAC citing what they have to cover? Any suggestions on a lawyer if it gets that far?

 

Thanks

The one motorcycle accident I had that I claimed, they did not have an appraiser for motorcycles. They had me take it to a shop of my choosing and submit an estimate. They then sent me a check and said to do as I please with repairs. It was a very different experience compared to auto claims I have made. I did not deal with the medical side at all as I was not injured.

1000 miles a week, I'm guessing 150+ miles a day 5 days a week? The remainder for weekend/errands. He will need either a Supercharger or a Wall Connector. I would suggest the Wall Connector for at home regardless of what he has at work. If he takes some time off, he will need a good way to charge. $500 plus install (requiring 60A 240v).

 

Putting 52k a year, and possibly using a Supercharger at work almost daily, I would be concerned about the Battery Pack. Here is a good read with links to maintenance and comparisons: https://electrek.co/2018/07/17/tesla-model-s-holds-up-400000-miles-3-years/

 

I would suggest looking for either an electric car with ICE backup or an ICE car. As far as driver fatigue, many manufacturers are coming out with driver assistance systems (not on the level of Tesla yet) that will help. I would also suggest looking at the cost breakdown of how much he will actually save with an electric car vs. an ICE.

Those fires are with the Bolt, not the Volt.

 

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

You are correct. My fault. I guess my reading was off. Probably caused by the fact that the Bolt is what is in the news lately. Combine that with the fact that the Volt was never recalled for that reason. They did do a "Customer Satisfaction Campaign" to add a brace to prevent fires after collisions. However, the point still stands, why would you do an expensive recall/campaign to reprogram a car to fix wiring in someone's house?

And the 'default' on Volt's is 8amps from a recall due to a fire; someone with shoddy wiring had a fire charging at 12amps. After that they had a software recall and you can then opt into 12amps EVERY time you turn the car off.

 

Must have been a lot of someones. They are now on their second recall because the first recall didn't work. It would not make sense to recall 61,000 cars for the second time (69,000 the first time) due to shoddy wiring in people's homes. Changing the car would not fix the problem. The issue seems to be battery related. Hence why they are saying don't charge over 90%, don't deplete below 70 mile range, park it away from everything after charging, and don't charge it overnight. Some of the recent fires have had people injured from smoke inhalation. This points to a vehicle in use not charging.

 

I think EV have there place and that place will expand in the future but, it is still a developing technology. Both the vehicle/battery itself, and the infrastructure to support them.

I highly agree with ride along time with an Officer. I would suggest a Trooper in a more rural area. I know where I am (Morrow County), our Troopers are often running crash to crash (we have had 90 minute wait time many times). It will definitely show what can happen. From losing your car to losing a limb or life.

 

I would also suggest some time volunteering in a hospital or rehab, if you can find any allowing it during Covid. Meeting people who have been hurt because of their actions or the actions of others may open her eyes.

 

You could also find cases that hit close to the topic and have her read them. I know a lot of us have lost someone we know due to racing. I know in Columbus there have been a few cases from pedestrians killed, to the driver getting killed.

dude, what do you do for a living and can I get a job? THat sounds fun! BTW, how do you like your SHO? I REALLY miss mine... I traded it in a few years ago for the MKZ that I have now thinking I'd like a more refined driving experience that was better on gas and it turns out there's nothing refined about me LMAO.

 

I do automotive research for the federal government (NHTSA/DOT). And actually, we are hiring like crazy. https://trcpg.com/careers/

 

As far as the SHO, I love it. It is comfortable and economical enough. I get 21.6 mpg beating on it and letting it idle for 30 minutes a day. I mainly got it though because I am also a volunteer firefighter and the Police Interceptor stuff will mount cleanly inside it and allow me to respond to runs and not stand out when DD the car. I have a little bit done to it with a few more things in the garage to add. I'm actually surprised by the interest it gets.

**EDIT: Nevermind, when I plotted in a destination, a bunch appeared

 

Play around with the filters and check out the Legend. Should show when they are broken, free charge sites, etc. Kind of nice if you are planning a trip to see which hotels have free chargers. You can also filter it by connector style or minimum power. We used it to plan cross country trips when doing our real world driving studies.

the charging infrastructure is just not there yet for anything but Tesla

 

We have been testing electric cars at work for a few years now and honestly other than on our private property, we have never used a Tesla Charger, even for Teslas. Try using a site like PlugShare. It is amazing the level of info they have. It will show cost, availability, and user reviews. May change your mind on a non-Tesla EV.

PSA has a 3 pack for $160

Does Iron Pony Rent them? Or have any suggestions? I know they rent motorcycles. I think it is called Eagle something. It is just inside the door to the right before you get into the Indian showroom.

Been here 14 years. Had an Integra Type R that was Procharged (man I miss that car). Got married/divorced, bought/sold a house, added a couple jobs. Got out of cars for a little while. Got into bikes. Getting back into cars with my SHO, still have 2 Harleys, bought a house in this wonderful climate due to landlord selling and not being able to find a decent rental in my area. Still testing automotive industry products and working in public safety (Fire/EMS).

I have the OBDLINK MX+ and the EX. Both are great products. I carry the MX+ in my car and have a couple free apps that work with it. I keep the EX with my laptop and use it if I am going to be doing any type of reprogramming and don't want to risk the loss of connection. One big advantage to both of these, is that they can do HS and MS CAN. No need to flip a switch to access one or the other.

Good call on Rabid and Lebanon, I’ll give them a try. I tried Dick Masheter; still waiting to hear back.

 

Good question on the specific requirements on what certified means to Ford. On the mustang forums the guys said any ase certified mechanic can do the work, but I’m not seeing anything online that can back that up.

 

Appreciate the comments guys.

 

Is this on your 2016? The warranty is only the original 3 year/36,000 mile warranty.

 

https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/PDFS/fpp-warranty.pdf

 

In other news, it does allow it to be any authorized Ford or Lincoln Dealer, Shelby American, Inc., or an automotive service technician certified by the Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) or endorsed by the Red Seal Program (RSE).

Who says it needs to be a "certified" mechanic and what is their definition? The reason I ask, is Ford has a different certification program from ASE. If it is for Ford warranty, I would guess they want a Ford Technician. If it is an aftermarket warranty, I would guess an ASE technician is acceptable. There are also different levels. 1 Ford certification can be a Ford certified Technician but, if they are certified in brakes, does that help you in your performance requirement? They may want a Master or even a Senior Master. The same applies for ASE. They could be certified in Diesel Brakes or a Master Automotive.

Bonus points for not understanding that the emissions other than carbon are orders of magnitude worse on that 50mpg car from 1991 compared to modern cars, not to mention it could never sell now for about 100 other reasons at least half of which are marketability. I'm also going to go out on a really short limb and say that at modern highway speeds it would get worse MPG than a modern fuel efficient car.

 

https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/Find.do?action=sbs&id=7474&id=25788&id=43297&id=43165tab2

 

2009 S2000, 2021 ILX, 2021 GC 2wd... all create more tailpipe emissions AND upstream Green House Gases per mile and get worse MPG.

 

Different cars with different use? Let's go economy... 2021 Spark, 2021 Golf, 2021 Mazda 2... https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/Find.do?action=sbs&id=7474&id=42656&id=43251&id=43074 All create more tailpipe AND Green House Gases per mile and get worse MPG.

You're just reaching now. Let it go.

 

You want less of a reach? Or should I say something more able to be accepted because people choose not to see what they don't have to experience?

 

Only 66% of American housing units have access to a garage or carport. Would you install your charger outside? Take out the rental properties such as apartment complexes that are not going to invest in the infrastructure to have chargers at every parking spot in their garage/carport.

I seriously don't know of houses without 240v service, with my only guess being houses with 100+ year old electrical systems

 

I would agree most have 240v available. However since 30A was used until turn of the 50's and the median home age is 1974, I would say there are many places that have not been upgraded. I know the house I sold in 2015 was 60A 120v service. Everything was gas in the house. If I tried to use the microwave while the ex was drying her hair, we often blew fuses. Do I expect many in the suburbs who can afford an EV to have an issue? No. Appalachia? Yes. Old farmhouses? Yes. Inner city slums run by shady landlords? Yes.

 

Overall, I like the option of EV but, I feel it should be just that... an option. To many people can't afford daily necessities let alone the cost of an EV and the required upgrades. To many people have situations that are not conducive to using a EV. I would be much happier to see research put into more fuel efficient cars and hybrids. If they could make a 50mpg mass produced car in 1991, I think we should be able to do better than an overall average of 25mpg currently. EU, Turkey, Japan, and Korea are all much better and we put out more emissions per capita than all of them so it is not an emissions/efficiency issue.

It's 80% continuous duty (60A*0.8=48A). My charger pulls 48A max.

 

My guess is that is your draw because it is a smart charger that will draw based on availability. The wall charger will work on 15-100A circuits and supply power based on it's available draw. A Gen 3 is capable of outputting 48A. In order to put out 48A and draw 48A, you would need a power factor of 1 (perfect) and a lossless charger. Both of which do not exist. If you were to supply your system with a higher input, you could get a higher output.

All houses have 240. If they didn't you couldn't use a stove/dryer/air conditioner.

 

Those are not in every house. Never had to live with just fans? Never thought it was a luxury when you finally got a window A/C for your bedroom and were so happy when it got late and you were allowed to turn it on because electricity costs went down? Never had the unfortunate experience of running out of propane and not being able to use the stove or dryer (or furnace)? Never had a natural gas stove or dryer? Your experience is not the only experience. Thankfully, I feel many here are a little more well off. However, growing up living in a 2 person pull behind trailer with a family of 4, having to walk to my Grandfather's house to shit or shower has given me a different perspective and an appreciation that many of the things we take for granted are not something that everyone gets to enjoy.

 

The breaker was $20 and the 6/2 wire (You only need #6 for a 60A breaker, and only two conductor) was $100. I don't know who is quoting you these numbers, but definitely get a second opinion. There are multiple electricians in the bay area of California installing Tesla chargers for $250. You should be able to buy a charger and have it installed for $1k or less. I did mine myself.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Siemens-60-Amp-2-Pole-QPH-22-kA-Circuit-Breaker-Q260H/301884038?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US 60A breaker for $45. Yes they can be had cheaper. But much like car parts, cheaper isn't always better and an installer is going to mark them up. In addition, 6AWG is rated for 55A, and at a 105' you need to up size due to voltage drop. So being 60A and 100', I chose 4AWG. Your house, your project feel free to under size as desired. As far as using 2 conductor, I am not sure how you are getting Ground, L2/Neutral and L1 which are all 3 called for in code and in the installation manual with only 2 wires. Technically Tesla recommends a 14-50 plug that requires 3 wires and a ground with a 60A breaker to achieve maximum charging rate on a Gen3 charger. They are capable of running on a 15A circuit but with slower charge speeds.

“The need” is “your” need.

 

Yes it is MY need which is why I don't agree with forcing EV on everyone. Why should I be pigeonholed into a solution that fits YOUR need. My need is a single person vehicle. Cars would be a lot lighter and more fuel efficient if they only fit the driver. Why don't you go get one of those? Oh... cause your need is different. Much like my need for a longer range, faster refueling vehicle is different from yours and we should both have an option that fits our need.

 

Which everyone agrees driving 100 miles a day is dumb waste of time.

 

Sorry didn't realize having to live in a poor county due to being a single income household and commuting to a more well off area that allows me to make prevailing wage, have good benefits, and PTO was a dumb waste of time. Guess I could always live in my Mom's basement or live off the system.

 

Here’s a link to Home Depot for about everything you need to add 220v 30amp outlet somewhere for less than $300. I could have it done in an afternoon. The Tesla included charger will plug right in. It’s perfect for 97% of America’s commuters who drive normal people distances. We have 100amp service and electric range. It all runs just fine. Car only pulls 24amps.

 

https://thd.co/3eVmHSA

 

Your cart is 30A service which as described above limits you to 22 miles per hour (21 on the Model Y)of charge time (half what the system is rated/capable of).

My old chevy spark got ~40MPG+ but was $8900 brand new after deals. There are CHEAP ICE cars out there with good gas mileage if that's the primary concern.

 

Not the concern at all, more-so the point. The cheaper and more fuel efficient the ICE car is, the harder to justify an EV is. In my example with my current car, it would take 181,650 miles in my current car to reach the break even point. In your Chevy Spark, it would take over twice as long to break even. (Double the gas mileage, $15k cheaper purchase price) I haven't done the math again but, I am guessing, it would take over 600,000 miles before you hit the break even point. That is if both vehicles could make it that far and have comparable maintenance costs.

110 miles driven per day puts you in about the top 2-3% of average miles driven per day. You're an edge case.

 

And yet longer commutes are becoming more and more common. The average is only 26 miles, however that is up 20% since 1980. Commutes longer than 45 minutes are up 12% in the same time frame. One way 90 minute commutes are up 64% since 1990.