Cordell

The flat style caps can sometimes have burn marks on the inside, but because the leads cross inside the cap they can arc and be near impossible to see. I have seen some aftermarket caps be bad right out of the box, so obviously this is not a part I would recommend skimping on. Of course I may not be thinking back far enough and you may not even have that typ, in which case any corrosion on the terminals or burn marks require replacement. Just take it apart and inspect, see what it looks like. Ultimately it could be any number off things, but since you only did plugs and wires the cap and rotor is the next logical step to inspect.

Does it have one of those junk flat distributor caps? First thing I'd try.

Some people like neon lights, idk

Doesn't seem that far fetched, but I haven't used them. Speed Inc has a couple at that price point, plus no tax and free shipping. http://www.speedinc.com/catagory.cfm?catagory=Fuel / Cooling

Since the truck has a pressurized "overflow" tank technically it's refered to as a surge tank. Changing it would require duplicating an f-body system. The key to making it work right is to get the cap at the highest point in the system, hence why GM puts in up on the fender in the tank in the first place.

There is nothing wrong with performance all-seasons Tom. He wants real performance tires he should buy 17 inch rims.

Well given those parameters and the lack of things in that size, I stand by my recommendation of Summitomo P01 A/S, and the Toyo Proxes 4.

The key to an accurate wideband is not to have exhaust leaks. I have been on a dyno with the dyno's wideband at the end of my tailpipe, and mine is in the collector (no cats) very little difference in reading maybe 2% if that. Given the inconsistancies you can run into simply because the weather changes you're fueling can change more then that. I think anybody worried about more then exhaust leaks is reading too far into it. There is a point to be made about how the factory places their sensors relative to the exhaust pulses in the pipe to get the best readings in relation to the converter, but this is impossible for the average person to figure out and really doesn't have much of an impact in your case.

I have bought many tires in the 245-50-16 because its what fits my Camaro. Most tires in that size will have a good speed rating, and if you're not racing on them most will work fine. I've got Sumitomos on the car now simply because they work decent, were cheap, and ride good. I would buy Toyo Proxes 4s again, as a matter of fact thats what is on my Miata currently, it's a good predictable tire for the money. I had a set of BFGs that weren't a great performance tire but they rode good. Having had many tires, I have sold tires, I work on cars, and even race from time to time I feel like I have a clue. Honestly you need to decide what your biggest factor is. Performance, price, tire life, looks? In that size when you aren't going to drive it much it doesn't matter much, though I would get something that isn't going to ride like shit. Hence why you'd never get me to buy a Firestone, Bridgestone, Goodyear, or Continental. People will argue that those companies make good tires, and certain tire models aren't bad, but most of them suck. Toyo is one of my favorite brands, but if it's not a performance tire they are shit too. Okay I'm done ranting.

You want something nice? I have 2 245-50-16s in my crawl that have about 20-30% left on them maybe less. Yours if you want them.

They're likely either aluminum or magnesium. Strip them and look into a good polishing kit, maybe try Eastwood for products.

VFN fiberglass

While I'm sure OP has his reasons the injectors he was using were higher flowing injectors that would've been stock on the original engine, however he has an LS3 based engine in it now and the injectors are different then the LS6. If there is some other reason I'd be curious to know what it is.

So you actually swapped in the LS3 length injectors and experienced the issues? It would seem to me that would have more to do with injector offset and minimum pulsewidth then the injector itself. The coil inside that injector would likely neccesitate some tweaking to those parameters in the tune file. Otherwise I haven't heard anything great about FAST injectors, but I have set them up before and they work fine in the LS1 f-body I used them in (not my car, I have SMP 37.5 pound injectors that I can't get quite right). My suggestion is to find some injectors with some good known parameters for you to set up your tune with.

I'm gonna have to put part of my intake through the hood, Mark does it so it has to be the key to going fast. This blue car looks like a damn copy cat to me. No record holder no care.

Never been on a plane, but I can promise I wouldn't come home with a cool story like that.

Post 3

I thought GTOs were 5x120, f-bodies are 5x120.65 (5x4.75). Just wanting to clarify, GLWS.

So what your saying is that you are getting a modified DSM that wasn't modded in the most important aspect, tuning? Best of luck. :dumb:

Nice new 17s are way better then old worn 18s. Besides at least a little more sidewall will lessen the chance for pothole damage. Personally I wouldn't upsize my rims on my daily, but it varies a little if the car came with small wheels.

Damn why must you tempt me so? That would be an awesome track rat with some carefully spent mods. GLWS