Cordell

Yeah he can chime in but its just a pullied, intercooled, and headers car. Doesn't run bad for what it is.

Yeah thats him, he made it to work today so aparently he didn't break it.

Yeah I'm not sure I want to deal with the godamn football fags crowd.

Seeing as how I've worked in more shops then you it depends on a few things. Most shops I have worked at I would have to agree with you but not all. The one I work at now obviously, the shops that my Dad worked at cared too. Its not a lost cause to have your ASE certs, plus the non-mechanical people out there see it as something important as they have no other way of knowing if you have a clue or not. Fuck it, I know techs with ASEs that i would trust to put air in my tires, I just don't feel its a lost cause.

I under stand how you two feel, but they did actually reimberse me for the first couple I took this year and I expect no different for these. I also got a pay raise, and just got told I'll be getting another. It will also look good on my resume. You have got the right idea, and this is why I pursued it. I've had warranty companies ask me for my ASE number, and GM pushes it hard on top of their own training but not required to get paid on anything. I beleive Ford requires certs to get paid on warranty work. I think they are work having and while they aren't made a big deal they do make a difference to a lot of people. Thanks for all the compliments, and the reaction from the other techs is excatly what I expected.

Thanks guys.

Thanks dick, I won't stay here very long if it doesn't make any difference, but I still have more hours then you. A1 Engine Repair A2 Automatic Transmission/Transaxle A3 Manual Drive Train & Axles A4 Suspension & Steering A5 Brakes A6 Electrical/Electronic Systems A7 Heating & Air Conditioning A8 Engine Performance A9 Light Vehicle Diesel Engines X1 Exhaust Systems Sorry bud thats about it for mechanical ASE tests that apply to my job, though I may get L1 Advanced Engine Performance since its the only other one. A1 through A8 is Master Level ASE.

It's CR I always come out on the defensive.

I've had good luck with this method, use a size that you have to hammer onto the rounded nut. Otherwise pull the y-pipe and manifold together, that'll be fun.

I passed the last few ASE tests I didn't have this morning. Nobody seems to give a shit, but its a big accomplishment for me and I'm happy about it, so fuck you if you don't care. A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 A8 A9 X1 :fuckyeah:

So you put a brand new carb on it when this started? or used without instructions? and let me just say that I'm no carb expert only having tuned a few Holleys. It does sound like if there isn't a blockage issue that the idle and cruise isn't even close. or as far as that goes it could have a vacuum leak.

Deff sounds lean, likely a blocked passage or something along those lines, has it been operating at least semi-normally before this started?

I showed up early, but only left early because I knew it would be a long day with the big job I had planned. Sorry I missed some of you that showed up after I left, would have enjoyed a littlemore BSing.

980 grams is just over 2 pounds, I could find 2 pounds of weed in my sleep, sorry ass cops couldn't catch cold in a snow storm.

I agree with Lance Armstrong's quote from last night about how everyone knows who won those titles. The man rode and won, and this crap has always sounded like a bunch of sore losers.

Are you going to eat it? Sure.

Get a room.

Welcome home and thanks for serving, I didn't serve so I feel strongly about thanking those who have. So a sincere thanks, have fun with your son.

and your point is?

This is going no where.

VATS is easily shut off in the PCM with tuning software.

Nice intro and an awesome car, the GTA was something I've loved since I was a teenager. Would love to see it. Welcome to the site.

What type bulbs is it for? or are these universal?

Didn't even know you could buy those, guess you could always make some?

They are all compatible, but the LS4 out of the FWD cars should be avoided, and anything made of aluminum will be more expensive. The 5.3L (LM7) and 6.0L (LQ4,LQ9) are the best bang for your buck with the 6.0L block giving you some more potential. The L33 Aluminum 5.3L that came in a few SUVs and SSRs is a great engine but it is more expensive. A lot of it has to do with how you want to aproach it, if you are going to leave the shortblock stock, because when you start playing with the bottom end there is lots of ways to go. and I'd leave the 4.8L engines alone unless you are going to build the short block, the block is the same as a 5.3L but the rotating assembly is useless and the engine is a dog.