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DerekClouser

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Posts posted by DerekClouser

  1. Eh, I'm an iPhone fan because it always seems to work and work smoothyl.  The apps work, the battery life is strong.  

    That's not to say that Android may or may not be better, I've just always had little issues with every android I owned.  Granted it was never a Galaxy.  


    I didn't have to update my apps every third day to fix some sort of Phone specific bug...


    But most importantly, if I can't figure out how to do something, I can search and find the correct answer within seconds. 

     

    But I don't pay for my phone anymore so I kind of just go with whatever my employer gives me.  

  2. As usual will meet in Wooster at the Minit Mart (BP) at the corner of 83/250 at 8am.  825 Dover Rd, Wooster, OH 44691

    Kick stands up at 8:15 to get to the meet spot by 10:30.  Route is simple.  83S  to 78. :lol:

    Anyone can jump in with the group in Millersburg (~8:35) , Coshocton (~8:55) , or New Concord (~9:15) if needed. 

    Of course, no-one will be left behind.  Will wait for group at appropriate locations so no-one will need to feel pressured to keep up if they can't. 

    See you in the AM. 

    minitmart.PNG

  3. I had a KN-138 that did the exact same thing this recall is for so be wary that it is a problem across the board with these filters.

     

    Many tracks are banning K&N Filters because of this problem and MID-OHIO has actually banned all HEX Head Filters because of the failure rates. 

  4. 32 minutes ago, NinjaDoc said:

    Haha I understand, the whole thing I wanted to post up the fall ride was to give you a much needed break. This is your day to enjoy :) no worries you can follow, I wish you follow me so I can be on camera for once :) learning curve from seeing your self ride is immense. 

     

     

    Absolutely.. I'll follow you for the route :)

    • Upvote 1
  5. 10 hours ago, cmh_sprint said:

    Found this on Reddit along with the post about this incident. 

    https://www.knfilters.com/recallkn204

     

    [–]Already_got_schwifty 2 points 2 hours ago 

    I found out MidOhio banned these the last time I went to the track. Said a guy blew an oil filter on the back straight and sprayed oil everywhere. Must have been one of these.

    Mine was a KN-138.  Clearly they have a problem across the board, but may just need enough reported cases before they announce an official recall. 

  6. 10 minutes ago, Helmutt said:

    I'd use some channel on either side of the top deck to stand those ramps up on their sides - sort of like short walls.  Drill the ramps in a few places to pin them into the channels - they would help to keep debris from the trailer's tires away from the bike too.

    Side note - You just strap those ramps together?  I would be afraid they would fold in on the tires once the weight of the bike is on 'em.   If it were me, I'd hinge them together underneath so they bottom out against each other under load.  

    I've never had an issue before... the only issue I've ever had was the two ramps sliding apart and the bike starting to fall between them... that's why I strap them together now.... TBH most of the time, I just use one. 

  7. 58 minutes ago, Helmutt said:

    Do you have a pic of your trailer so we can all see what you're working with?

    If you have room under the trailer, this is a fairly cheap setup.  I'd use lengths of that perforated steel angle down both sides of each ramp so you can slide the ramps into it from the back end.  Could drill the lock straps to accommodate padlocks too, so they're secure

     

    maxresdefault.jpg

     

    trailer and ramps.png

    trailer 2.png

  8. So I have 2 wood ramps for loading my bike onto my trailer.  I've been thinking of ways to secure the wood ramps to the trailer for travel. 

    My goal: 
    A.) Prevent them from moving around while in travel.

    B.)  I really don't want them to be able to bounce up and down independently of the trailer. 

    C.)  Not required but would be nice to be able to lock them so if I leave the trailer somewhere overnight, someone can't easily take the ramps.

     

    My initial idea was to put some sort of bolt through the bottom of the trailer and protrude through the top and then drill 2 holes into the ramps and then use a large wing nut on top to hold them down against the trailer.  Since I don't have a welder, I'm not sure how to secure the bolt to the bottom side of the trailer so they don't just fall out when not in use and doesn't really accomplish my ability to lock it down.


    Anyone have any ideas? Also I'd prefer to not spend a million bucks either.  I was also thinking about some L brackets and mounting them and somehow securing it that way.  Just my brainstorming.  

    Any help would greatly be appreciated.    Links or images to anything you mention would be super helpful too!  

  9. They did request the filter information (including origin) and paid for me to ship my faulty filter back to them for testing, so hopefully they are trying to tie down where the faulty ones are being manufactured and can remedy the issues. 

    I honestly kept the damages low from what I probably 'could' have gone for, but I didn't want to have to deal with courts or pushing it too far so I kept it fair at 1400$ to speed the process through.  I'm not that particular and can deal with little scratches to the fairing so probably won't replace that and I was able to save the tire, too.  So I will probably get an upgraded race suit out of the deal for my inconveniences and 'pain and suffering' and K&N has more information on their faulty product.  

    I know I will never use K&N again.     

    • Upvote 1
  10. Update:  They are pony'ing up the $1400.  Just requiring a general release from further litigation. 

    Little bit of a hassle but they sent all they needed in one email.  Although, I did have to follow up to get an answer, it wasn't too overly complicated. 

     

     

    Here is the email I received (after requesting an update)

    Derek,

     

    Sorry for the delay. I did have your claim reviewed and following is what we show:

     

     

    Tire                                        $159.66

    Bar end slider                    $187.67

    Helmet                                 $549.99

    Boots                                    $179.99

    Under cowl cover             $265.05

     

    Total:                                     $1,342.36

     

    Attached please find a General Release for your review and signature.  Please sign the bottom of the General Release where indicated and return the General Release to me via e-mail (please forward the original General Release by mail to: K&N Engineering, 1455 Citrus St., Riverside, CA 92507). 

     

    Once I receive the executed General Release (via e-mail) I will issue you a check in the amount of $1,342.36.

     

    If you have any questions please let me know.

     

    Thank you,

     

     

    • Upvote 4
  11. On 9/3/2017 at 5:41 PM, Doomking said:

    Hello

    thinking of making the ride. 

    Is there anyone from Cleveland going down there?

    would be a lonely ride to and back alone. 

    Myself and a few others will likely be coming from the Cleveland/Akron Area.  We will likely meet at the Minit Mart at 83/250 in Wooster.   (825 Dover Rd, Wooster, OH 44691) 

    I'm not sure of the time at this point, but I will let you know.  

    • Upvote 1
  12. 20 minutes ago, redkow97 said:

    I know I'm in the minority here, but I did not like the way the R6 felt from behind the bars.  Maybe it's something I could get used to, but I did not like riding "on" the bike rather than "in" the bike. 

    GSXRs and ZX6s feel much more natural for me.  My Honda (the 600RR, not the XR100) felt comfortable as well, but they're known as "forgiving,"  which is the nice way of saying that it handles like a turd, and doesn't have the grunt to make up for it in the straights.

    If you can live with the ergonomics of a supersport, that will obviously be more suited to track riding.  I wouldn't change the bars on an FZ6 unless it was to make it crash better.  Lower rearsets may be a lot more comfortable, and if you never drag the stock set, i don't see a reason to buy anything else...

    I guess my intention was moving to a super sport rather than trying to convert the sport touring bike into one.  I know Jim test rode the new R6 at Iron Pony demo day and he said he liked it, but if a ZX6R, CBR600RR, or G S X R 600 is more comfortable, I would recommend those as well before trying to convert the FZ6 for the same money. 

    • Upvote 1
  13. I'll still think for the same money you are investing, you could easily pick up an R6 for the track.  You're essentially trying to turn the FZ6 into an R6 with all these upgrades.   Adding clip-ons and rear sets will give you the R6 feel anyway so it's not a comfort thing anymore.  
    I'm not saying you are at the limits of the FZ6 and we all have a lot to learn at the track, but having a bike that's far more capable for the same amount of money seems like a no-brainer to me.  
    As you improve, the r6 will have more growth opportunity as you turn yourself into Valentino Rossi. 

    Just my .02 

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