hiro

True. In my case I've been wanting to take another higher level class in riding and/or get to a track. Neither has been particularly convenient or cheap. The Advanced MSF course wasn't even available. I guess it still helps to have a continual-improvement mindset.

Right. I followed the LAMS recommendations as just that. I ignored the UK's recommendations, and maybe what some people in the USA might say. No, I don't want a 1200+ cc cruiser and a bandana for a helmet. heh Make information available and let people choose.

I'll go with that. heh It's consistent with the fact that my car tires are not that great. They sit outside 100% of the time and I barely drive it. The bike tires are inside a lot, and they will be off the ground over the winter. I just wonder if my car tire had the cracks before I had to drive on the tire at very low pressure. (It has at least one puncture in it.) Still, checking the date codes would show whether they're stock or not. Like I said, just curious. Not that it will automatically be catastrophic. It's just data.

I'm not OCD, but I can be detail oriented. And I'm still on my older tires that are going on 6 years old. I think people here need to stop jumping on my back when I'm being reasonable, which I am. Isn't it standard procedure to check the tires when shopping for a used bike? Eight years is pushing it for tires no matter who you ask. If you want to go by looks and be blissfully unaware, enjoy. If you check the date codes and the tires feel good, then that's just a point of reference. Nothing to lose. The tires on my car look OK from the sides and the tread is good, but I've noticed some loss of grip. Then, after pulling a wheel, I found some cracking in the tread. They will be 6 years old in December. A little push through a curve shouldn't hurt on 4 wheels, but it might on 2. Anyway, fuck it.

"Older" riders probably put down more miles and go to unfamiliar places more often, too. Maybe get complacent. Good reason to stick with sport bikes? That would probably reduce the number of older people riding. heh Kitten says, "p[;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;oooooooooooooooooooooooo"

Also, training for newer road issues like texting, round-abouts, limits of anti-lock brakes. They could be online-classes even. Maybe it should be required for all people applying for a car license to either ride a motorcycle or bicycle in traffic!

With so many people just riding without a license (from what I've heard) and without training, I don't think it should be more difficult to get a license. It should be *easier* to get training and experience and get licensed! When I was in NJ I wanted to ride, but never did except maybe once...without a license. I believe it required riding with a licensed rider while having a permit. I didn't know anyone to ride with, so that was an obstacle. Ohio made it much easier, but I took the time to take the MSF class and practice on my own in safer areas before expanding out into the world. During that time, I did look to other countries' guidelines for how to progress safely and effectively. I found the system in the UK to be ridiculously strict. The system in Australia seemed more reasonable--LAMS. From what I remember, LAMS requires a certain amount of training and a learner bike. A learner bike could be a Ninja 650 with a limiter. Having a Ninja 650 now, I agree that that makes perfect sense. Starting smaller, which was an option I took, is good, too. I didn't need the government to dictate that to me. I'm still hesitant to ride anything too far outside my range of experience. (Meaning, cruisers, big touring bikes, higher power.) So, I would say progressive licensing isn't terrible within reason. Making information available on best practices should help. It's more about culture, I think. If you start off hanging with people who jump straight onto a superbike and play Mission Impossible on the street, bad things could happen quick! (If they even make the first turn out of the parking lot. heh) Helmets, after a learning period, should be optional, although I choose to wear one. I think if people have good options available and a culture that values skills and safety, it will be OK. Re-testing...sure. Why not? Considering that some people might not ride for a while, maybe years at a time.

When we first moved to Hilliard from NJ, we couldn't believe that some people didn't lock their doors all the time! That was 6 years ago. Since then we've heard of a bunch of petty crimes. The development is one reason we're happy to leave. That plus the homes jumping in value...along with the taxes. Our estimated home value has gone up about 40%!

I had just the cat for that. Too bad they didn't ask.

I wonder how effective a post for a stolen bike is. https://columbus.craigslist.org/mcy/d/2008-yamaha-fz6/6258885438.html

Hmm...I think I worked on my brother's CB360 tire way back. Probably using screwdrivers!

Thanks for looking out for me. heh Who wants mismatched parts? Actually, I only care to have the angled valve on the front.

Waiting to hear back from him. Just seeing what my other options are.

The less than 90* one. Like this. Just noticed that two in the box have some heft to them.

Anyone want to change two tires for me, balance them, and add angled valves? Hilliard/Columbus area. Or should I learn to do them myself? I've only done bicycle tires, but I know about popping a bead. Don't have a balancing setup though.

WTF? haha I'm just concerned that a 2009 might have decent looking, really old tires. I do like that engine though.

That engine is so clean and simple, it's scary. I'm still curious. What are the date codes on the tires?

Wow. Interesting. And the insulation can also be affected. "...materials that are classed as CONDUCTORS tend to INCREASE their resistance with an increase in temperature. INSULATORS however are liable to DECREASE their resistance with an increase in temperature. Materials used for practical insulators (glass, plastic etc.) only exhibit a marked drop in their resistance at very high temperatures. They remain good insulators over all temperatures they are likely to encounter in use."

Oh, so THAT's how it works. hehe I put the knee pads at the elbows because they position better, have better coverage, and are level 2. (The jacket just doesn't fit well.) The elbow pads fit in the jeans more comfortably, especially whilst walking. The hip pads are level 1 I think, partly to keep their bulk down. Less protection, but more practical for casual use, plus the jeans have the Covec liner. Not hot at all. I really liked the SR-6 cargo pants, too. (There is a lower-leg zip-off version and a regular one.) I don't have a decent back protector. Just the crappy foam that /might/ be good for laying on a park bench. The one time I did a slow, low-side, the contact points were up the side of the leg, side of elbow, and the shoulder. That's when I decided that hip pads might be good and that the elbow pads were not right. heh I just had on regular jeans at the time. I think only one small section of the seam was affected a little. The bike slid more than I did. Not complaining!

What's wrong with riding jeans? I know they won't be as good as leather, but there's at least some protection. I have Bull-it SR-4 jeans with the elbow pads from my jacket in the knees. (I put the knee pads in my jacket. heh) I also have hip pads. I didn't account for one thing; jeans stretch and get baggy. Don't want to wear them out by washing them more than needed. (I fit like a 31" waist which is rare to find. My Bull-it 32's require a belt unless I want them to sag. Probably not what is meant by setting sag.)

Yeah, the bus bar idea seems solid, but soldered joints should be solid, too. The main reason for not using solder is to be able to disconnect at will. (You could solder on terminals that are then screwed down to the bus bar.) Having a solid connection would reduce internal heat, so as long as the wires are properly sized for the current it should be good. Not sure about heat coming off the engine. If the wires are intertwined, J-hooked, or twisted together before soldering, they shouldn't come apart easily. (It might be interesting, if not totally useless to know, that current tends to travel on the "skin" of a conductor at higher frequencies. It's called the skin effect and it reduces the effective size of the conductor as if it were hollow.)

I enjoy me some solder and heat shrink if you want help sometime. Before October.

No worries about coolant! $1000 for the bike leaves $500 for gear, and maybe tires. Unless there is a separate budget for gear?

Back when I was first looking, I almost checked out a Vulcan 500. That was back before I knew how small a Rebel really is. heh V-star 650's look nice to me.

Check the date codes on the tires and be careful on them until you know they stick. Looks like the S40 has some good torque, like double what a 300 has. A little lower on HP than a 300. Probably more comfortable than a NInja 300, but not as nimble. What I didn't like about the 300 was the lack of torque, so...yeah.