MSerfozo

I swapped the Racetech rear shock to my bike and changed the oil. It's ready for the dragon now!

Success!

My red Bandit is OK. It was just a 25mph lowside. Bar end and shifter replaced, rash on the tail section covered with a sticker, and the engine lower side cover will wear the scar for a while. Taking it to the dragon, etc. in a week. The silver bike in the pic was an opportunity I couldn't pass up. It was crashed bad but had a lot of really nice parts for me to salvage. That's where I got the Brembo monoblocks and masters. Today, I plan to swap shocks to put the Racetech built Hayabusa shock in my bike. The engine has 11:1 1216cc pistons, a "Gary Dye" head, and a Barnett GSXR clutch. It'll go in my Bandit over the winter. The forks and frame are totalled. I hope to disassemble the forks to salvage the Racetech valves and springs but I'll probably need a bandsaw because they are so bent. After I scrap the frame, I'll get my half of the garage back.

I got the engine ready to pull then the frame goes to scrap.

I've been impressed with Carbone Lorraine XBK5 pads. My Brembo monoblocks came with Galfer pads but I'll probably swap to CL before I wear them out.

Can you force fluid backwards? If the calipers are attached, push the pistons in like you're changing to new pads.

I have a media blaster at work. It'll come off... 😎

Moved the Vortex gas cap from the donor bike. I'm thinking of blasting the black paint off the outside ring. What do you think?

OK, Rel is on our agenda too.

I'll be in the area, arriving the 11th, riding with my buddy Dave the 12th-16th, and staying in Sylva at the Holiday Inn on 74. We'll be trailering down so we'll have a tow vehicle and tools, etc. We don't really have any plans for any specific rides, but would like to meet up with you guys for a part of a day or a dinner. I also understand if your group is already big enough... Thanks to Tonik, I just added dinner at the brown trout place to our agenda. And I have to ask, Is Caffe Rel really that good?

Thanks Andy. So when the brakes get very hot, you need more lever pull to compensate? Makes sense.

I have a question that I'll bet one of you track guys can answer for me. I was sick this weekend which gave me time to watch all the WSBK and MotoGP races from the last couple of weekends. I noticed the riders turning their brake lever position adjusters a lot - or maybe once I recognized what they were doing, I just paid more attention to it. Anyway, it made me think about how the brakes work and what the adjuster wheel does. I understand that the hydraulic master cylinder will allow more fluid to flow from the reservoir into the system to account for brake pad wear (which I expect is a non-trivial volume during the course of a race). What I don't understand is what would cause the riders to want or need to adjust the brake lever position. Does temperature of the brakes cause the lever stroke to be longer at some temps and shorter at others to achieve the same braking performance? Or is there something else I'm missing about braking at top racing levels? I did try googling this questions but all I got was ads for remote adjusters.

Clutch master is installed. Now it looks balanced again.

I sent this to our new IT AI assistant on Teams. It was more fun than it should have been. Does that make me a nerd?