Turbotrio

Whos fault is it that the radio got stolen in the first place? And yes you are correct, right now there is a 60 yr old man out pimping your stereo equipment as we speak

Ok, heres the breakdown: The car was dropped off 2/23 with an estimate from Farmers Insurance. Estimate was written for a new quarter glass and LKQ (used) dash among other things. Dash was ordered 2/24 and glass company installed quarter glass on 2/25. Jerry says he made it very clear that you could pick up the car and drive it from 2/25 on since the glass was back in it and the used dash would be a few days. LKQ dash ended up not being available in the correct color so the insurance company had to be contacted to get approval for a NEW oem dash. Three days later approval was granted and new part was ordered. New dash arrived damaged on 3/5 and was reorderd. The second new dash just arrived yesterday so obviously the car isnt done yet. As far as the break-in at the shop, the lock was popped and there is body damage that does need repaired/painted. The tech working on the car is like 55 and the last thing in the world he has the interest/energy to do is break in your car. The only other tech in that building is my brother and he doesnt even own a cd so trust me when i say it wasnt him. Jerry says since the car was in for break-in damage for the stereo getting stolen he wasnt even aware there was anything left in it to take or it would have been kept inside. In the two years i was at that store we had one other break-in in the parking lot so its not unheard of but by no means is it a weekly event. The entire job was around $900 total. Jerry said hes already told you hes going to cover the damage to the vehicle and the stolen stereo equipment at a value around $800. I dont think thats very unfair at all. Its basically costing the shop over $500 to work on your car. The lot is not fenced or secured and technically the shop doesnt have to pay for any of the damages at all. True2form is no more responsible than Mcdonalds would be if it happened in their parking lot. Oh, and as far as never calling you, the file is in your grandmothers name and the contact phone #s are hers. Jerry has called her multiple times to update her on the parts issues and so forth. Now we have the rest of the story....

Since you signed up here strictly to post about your experience i assume youre pretty upset and possibly rightly so. Why Jerry never called you to update you i have no idea. As to the specifics of why things took so long i also have no idea. I have no more to do with that shop now than i do Mowrys if you had taken it there. Ill find out what happened and post the shops side. That being said, id like to just state the obvious for a second. Every single body tech and every single paint tech and every manager or estimator at True2form is a separate individual at a different skill level. One experience (either very good or very bad) really has no reflection on what the next will be unless you go back to the same PEOPLE (not shop or location). The difference from shop to shop is how problems get handled if/when they occur. For anyone that didnt get completely 110% satisfied after you had any sort of problem with the repairs you definetly didnt try very hard....

Check you PMs smile.gif

Defi

Pretty much tongue.gif But just for the record, some of us know more than half IMO, everyone should know the whole thing so they can make better judgements on who they choose to buy parts from and who they use to have work done on their car. An "i told you so" to someone that gets screwed over doesnt help them very much I do kinda understand the reasons behind not making everything public but people should be aware of how any shop treats its customers--good and bad. There, that was actually something beyond flame-bait

Leave that videocamera in the car so i can borrow it too I couldnt come up with anything witty but just thought id contribute my 2 cents in an effort to get the first thread in the tech section locked

There is a place in town called Wheel Medic that we use a lot at the shop. They do really good work and will repair/paint a wheel usually around $100. If you want ill get a # tomorrow.

I have one too if you have a truck smile.gif Ill be needing it again in a couple weeks but until then its all yours.

Closest is in chicago now (i think). Im gonna make a trek that way here in a month or so--if you want to caravan out let me know Maybe we can get a few more local AWD guys and get a group rate or something

i never heard over in your kill story thread but what mods do you have? if even bpu id *alteast* go with a rps stage 3 (called max series now). its around $500 and will hold fine. if youve got more or are planning on it id bend over and go for the rps carbon/carbon. the single disk is around $1500 w/aluminum flywheel and twin-disk is $2600 but the damn things are supposed to be indestructible

pretty sure its 5 quarts.....

renner knows ALLLLLLLL about this one tongue.gif

full arp headbolts and they have been retorqued twice. ive run a max of 15-17psi thus far--which is nothing for that car. ran around with a much smaller front-mount on 19psi for over a year without the first cooling problem.....

compression test was good. then had ricart do another headgasket test that uses some blue fluid that will turn yellow if there is a headgasket leak. nada. headgasket is a-ok.

egts are LOW LOW LOW and air/fuel is pegged rich

np. ignition is actually advanced 10 degrees. radiator cap is good. and if i KNEW FOR SURE the aluminum radiator would solve the problem id have already spent the $400. i dunno.

1. yes--but the fmic was done the same time MANY other things were done--including the entire engine. 2. at this point i guess anythings possible

jamie, fans are both wired to run 24/7 and no i dont have a/c so the condenser is gone (which should be a little *less* restriction). both kick on when the key turns and stay that way til i shut her down. thermo was a 195 then i went to a 180 now im back to a 195 again thinking that *maybe* the coolant wasnt staying in the radiator long enough to fully cool and thus helping the overheating problem. either way, the car overheats

ok, i have absolutely no freaking clue what is wrong so i figured id see if anyone might have any ideas. symptoms: car overheats randomly--especially after hard runs under boost. it will idle all day long and not overheat. it will run at a constant 55mph and not overheat. but if the car even gets a hint that youre thinking about getting on it it overheats whats been done/replaced so far: 1) thermostat--on #4 right now so dont think its it 2) new radiator--in case stocker was leaking or somehow clogged 3) system flushed--about 12 times at this point (most not voluntary) 4) new radiator cap--again, on 3rd different one right now 5) water wetter added to coolant and less coolant than normal vs water 6) water pump is original but works fine 7) coolant leak test today with ZERO leaks found 8) two different compression tests done and headgasket is fine 9) tonight we directed hoses over the front-mount to get air straight into the radiator with no luck 10) all hoses checked 12 times and no cracks/tears/visible wear 11) added a permacool high-performance fan so it has two strong fans now basically, the temp gauge sits just shy of halfway until repeated hard 3rd/4th gear pulls. then it raises slightly to exactly halfway--at which point fluid starts dumping out of the overflow bottle (this has been verified by poor cars following behind me--sorry ricky) and it loses so much it then overheats. everytime i pull over and let it cool back down i add atleast a gallon of coolant. WTF??? i have absolutely no idea what the hell is wrong. the only guess right now is that the front-mount is too big (3 1/2" thick) and is blocking all the air-flow to the radiator. keep in mind this same fmic is on a few thousand cars (prolly close to 50 at the dsm-shootout when it was close to 100 degrees) and no one else seems to be having the same problem. any ideas ??????

ok, since i cant stand being last you need to update mine to my "2nd time out" dyno #s LOL. 308.2 fwhp / 307.6 torque thanks!

well, since no one is wanting to give away thier #s ill start. the laser put down 139.8 fwp and 207.2 trq. not sure on weight, but im guessing its around 2500lbs im betting on still being in the top 25

huh?

and since i assume this is referring to me ill try to help out. whats your 60fts like? as im sure you know, strong fwd cars SUCK for 60fts. what kind of tires are up front? i dropped over a half second with nitto 555rs on 15psi. of course ETs or another good set of slicks would be much better, but like me, you have another car for full race duty. definetely need some suspension mods. motor mount inserts help (road race sells them for $80) and even awd equal-length half shafts wouldnt hurt. an lsd from quaife would be ideal. i personally hate launching a fwd car. whats worked best for me is just bringing it out at around 3500 and just letting it get the tires spinning and then nailing 2nd. 1st gear is pretty much useless any way you do it. my best 60ft has been a 1.9x on the nittos. dont have much experience with autos--but if you have any specific questions 12sectalon (dan weaver) or pavo could more than help you out on converters and upgraded trannys etc etc.

yeah, i like that. jeff